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Post by blarboose on Aug 29, 2014 14:31:42 GMT -5
Ok, so coming back to this after a little while.
The bike had been running fine for a while, but then I noticed some stuttering at WOT and a little drop in speed. I figured the carb might need cleaned, so I took it out, cleaned the jets really good, put it all back together.... and now it wont run faster than 25MPH. When I twist the throttle more than just a tiny bit, it just... doesnt do anything. Like, it seems like its trying to accelerate, but the fuel mixture is waaaaaay too lean. I know thats not it though, because even turning the fuel screw as far open as it possibly goes doesnt help anything.
I figured maybe I screwed something up in the carb, so I took it all out again, cleaned it again, put it back together... same problem. The bike runs normally when Im just barely twisting the throttle, and itll accelerate up to 25 MPH over a period of like 10-15 seconds on a flat surface, but thats all itll do. It wont go any faster, it wont accelerate any faster, and twisting the throttle beyond that first tiny little bit just makes it sound like its starved for fuel.
Ive checked the intake manifold, and its still intact. The air box/air hose seems fine, the throttle and throttle cable are both ok, the idle screw is set ok, and the battery is fully charged.
Any ideas? Im thinking it might be the fuel pump, just based on process of elimenation. I mean, I know that everything else involved with the fuel delivery is working fine, so the pump is really all thats left.
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Post by blarboose on Aug 28, 2014 19:10:12 GMT -5
I just finished cleaning my carb again due to some stuttering at higher speeds, and as I was screwing the jets back in, a thought occurred to me.
Basically, when Im screwing in the pilot jet, for the first several turns it just feels loose. Then at a certain point, it starts feeling more snug, but not quite tight, and I can still turn it quite a bit more before it feels 'tight' and then even a bit more beyond that before it feels like its as tight as it goes. Obviously, I dont want to screw it in super super tight, but it made me think; does how far in you screw the pilot jet affect the air/fuel mixture, or the performance of the bike, or anything else like that?
I mean, theres a good 3 or 4 full turns in between where it goes from 'loose' to 'snug' to where it goes from 'snug' to 'tight'
Could how far its screwed into the 'snug' area of it affect things? Sorry if the way Im phrasing this doesnt make much sense. To put it more simply, as long as its in enough to not be loose and fall out, does it matter how far/tight the pilot jet is screwed in?
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Post by blarboose on Aug 16, 2014 21:02:15 GMT -5
Ok, so I was just trying to change my oil a few minutes ago. No matter how hard I turned, the damn bolt just WOULD NOT TURN. This by itself doesnt make any sense. Im the one who put the bolt ON last time, so the absolute tightest it could possibly be would be limited by how hard I could turn it. So unless Ive lost a TON of strength/muscle since putting the bolt on (My arms have actually gotten stronger since then due to my new job) its completely impossible for the bolt to be too tight for me to remove.
I tried plenty of WD-40, I tried with the bike nice and warmed up, and I tried with it completely cooled down. No matter what I did, this bolt just defied the laws of physics and refused to budge AT ALL.
So anyway, about 15 minutes ago, I was giving another shot at getting the damn bolt off, and all of a sudden, the socket wrench starts to turn, but the bolt doesnt turn at all. When I look at it, it literally looks like its almost completely circular. the metal was so insanely stripped. It looked like the metal was peeled like an apple. There is no way in normal metal should just scrape off so insanely easy like that.
So now, Im sitting here with a scooter that I cant change the oil on because the oil drain bolt is possessed by satan and likes to completely ignore the laws of physics. Its stripped to all and back, to the point where no wrench, socket, pliers, or anything else will get a good enough grip on it to turn it.
Whats the best course of action here? Is there any way to fix the bolt, to make it un-stripped enough to remove it? What about the impossible immovable-ness of the bolt? I know for a fact that with the amount of force I was applying, the bolt DEFINITELY should have turned, and yet it didnt budge at all. Even if I can fix the head of the bolt so a socket or wrench can grip it, how can I get it to turn when it seems to be a literal immovable object?
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Post by blarboose on Aug 5, 2014 9:08:16 GMT -5
I dont know what size weights are in there, but chances are its most likely stock. I weigh about 165 or so, and yeah I was just going by the speedometer. I havent checked with a GPS.
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Post by blarboose on Aug 4, 2014 22:08:26 GMT -5
Was 5900 rpms the highest it would go ? If so u need to drop the weight of the rollers so that you can hit 7500 rpms on a straight run . That was about as high as it got. I was trying to not crash into anything while also getting a good look at the tachyometer, so... XD But yeah, all those values are accurate, give or take 100 RPMs in either direction. So do you think like 11 gram weights or 12 grams, or...? |
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Post by blarboose on Aug 4, 2014 16:33:54 GMT -5
Ok, just go in from a run, and here's what I got. Keep in mind these are all fairly approximate, to withing 100 or so RPMs.
25MPH: 3500RPMs
30MPH: 3800 RPMs
40MPH: 4200 RPMs
50MPH: 5200 RPMs
60MPH: 5900 RPMs
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Post by blarboose on Aug 3, 2014 22:40:12 GMT -5
What rpms do you reach on a straight run ? That will help answer your roller weight question . Yknow, I was so excited that I was actually getting decent speeds, that I didnt even think to look at the RPMs. XD Ill have to take a run tomorrow and take a look at it. |
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Post by blarboose on Aug 2, 2014 22:58:22 GMT -5
Oh also, UPDATE TIME! : D After the rain stopped I got my brother to ride passenger and took it out for a ride. He weighs about 150 pounds, and I weigh 165, so it was almost double the normal load for the bike to move. I was able to do just under 50 on a flat surface and 35 up that hill that I was able to do just over 40 going up by myself. I had to squeeze the brakes harder obviously, but I still didnt have any problem braking in general. Acceleration was slower than by my self, as expected, but not so much as I thought it would be. All in all, I think I should be able to carry a passenger without too much trouble. Ill want to avoid the highway or anything where I need to be going much over 40MPH, but in general the bike did better than I was expecting.  Something that has been mentioned a few times in this thread is the weights. Would switching to 11 gram weights get me any better performance (with or without a passenger) or are we thinking that this is probably as good as Ill get? A similar question; would fine tuning the valves get me any improvement? The issues from before (both the stumble at WOT and the dying at low RPMs) are both completely gone now. Would/could tweaking the vales potentially get me any improvement? Or would I just be asking for trouble. (Considering my track record of "Oh, Ill tweak this" followed by "Oh, now it doesnt work at all") |
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Post by blarboose on Aug 2, 2014 22:50:59 GMT -5
'Road Spares' Whenever I replace a wear item on a vehicle, I generally keep the old ones as 'emergency road spares' Things like belts, hoses, spark plug wires, spark plugs, etc. They don't take up much room, and can be a lifesaver in a pinch. I currently have a spare intake manifold, coil/plug wire, CDI and drive belt in the scoots storage compartment.  XD its kinda funny. I wasnt even intending on doing that, but I kinda did. I have an old walmart bag in my garage that I use as a trash bag, but whenever Ive replaced parts I put them in a different bag, just because. As a result, I havent thrown out any of the old parts when Ive thrown out the trash bag. So now, I have a spare manifold, sparkplug, CDI, horn, fuel filter, fuel pump, carb diaphragm, tail light cover (half of one anyway), air filter, and turn signal bulb. |
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Post by blarboose on Aug 2, 2014 19:03:21 GMT -5
So it was an air leak all along...lol Just buy a new one dewd,,they are only what you paid for the JB weld.. The air leak in the manifold happened AFTER I cleaned the carb jets. My original problem (lousy top speed) was fixed by cleaning the jets. Then when I put everything back on, the manifold cracked which greatly weakened the vacuum going to the fuel pump, so much so that it couldnt sustain enough fuel at lower RPMs. I currently have my original intake manifold, and the one i got to replace it. The original is back on the bike, all patched up with JB, and working great. The newer one, Im gonna give another few coats of JB to make it extra durable, and keep as a spare. If the one on the bike breaks, I have another ready to go. |
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Post by blarboose on Aug 2, 2014 17:12:58 GMT -5
UPDATE!
Ok, I put on a second coat of JB weld on the manifold last night, since it was already 11PM and I didnt feel like starting to put everything back together that late. I let the second coat dry overnight and put everything together this afternoon.
Took it for a ride, and made it up to 60MPH on a flat section of the freeway. : D It also did significantly better on the hills. The one hill that I could previously only do 20MPH going up, I was able to do 40MPH, and I probably could've gotten it going even faster up the hill, but I was coming up to a curve. The acceleration is also a lot better than it was before. Cleaning out the carb jets seems to have worked wonders. : )
I need to adjust the idle timing a bit, and Ill probably fiddle with the fuel mixture while Im at it (I did a rough adjustment before the test ride so I figure I can fine tune it from there) but other than that it seems to be working much better that it was before I cleaned the carb and then the manifold cracked.
I was going to have my brother ride passenger, so I could see how it does with an extra 150LBS on it, but it decided to rain just as I was pulling into my drive way. :-p
Im going to test it with a passenger once it stops raining and see how much of a difference there is.
Once again, I wanna say THANK YOU SO MUCH to everyone for their help, especially Alley. Youve all saved my butt here more than once. X D
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Post by blarboose on Aug 1, 2014 13:00:29 GMT -5
There you go JB weld is great stuff you can even drill it. Alleyoop Quick question for you; in your experience with JB weld, how long do you need to let it cure for? The package says it cures in 15 to 24 hours, so Im not even going to be TOUCHING it until its been 24 hours. But in your experience, does letting it cure for longer before installing the part or messing with it help at all? or would I just be wasting my time by letting it go for longer than 24 hours? |
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Post by blarboose on Jul 31, 2014 21:06:00 GMT -5
The putty should be cured now so Im gonna go ahead and apply the epoxy.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 31, 2014 19:58:35 GMT -5
Well you probably can use JB weld it comes in two small tubes that you mix. You can find it at your hardware store or auto parts store. But for the price of it you can buy a new intake manifold. UPDATE: I went out and got some JB weld, plus JB kwiksteel. The kwiksteel is like a putty that you knead to mix up and then it hardens. I figure Ill use the putty to fill the cracks, and then once that is dried/cured, Ill use the JB weld to cover it up and seal it on both sides. |
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Post by blarboose on Jul 31, 2014 17:33:37 GMT -5
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