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Post by blarboose on Jul 8, 2014 22:42:47 GMT -5
Ok, back to the Falling flat on its face at high rpms: Take the cap on top of the carb off and check the RUBBER DIAPHGRAM. Look for rips and or tiny holes it may also be leaking around the center piece where it is held on. If it leaks it will not hold the needle out and drop and rise causing your symptoms. You DON'T have to take the Carb off. Alleyoop Its not that. When I took the carb apart to clean it I did take a look at the diaphragm because I thought it was neat looking. There werent any rips or holes or anything. It IS possible that the diaphragm may be on crooked or the cap may not be sealed properly, due to me doing a lousy job putting it back together... Ill check on that in the morning. rockynv None of the lights go on when I turn the key, but the fuel gauge does... activate, for lack of a better term. As in, when the key is in the "off" position, the needle on the fuel gauge sits all the way at empty, and when I turn the key, the needle moves to whatever position is actually indicative of the current fuel level. My headlights are sort of ghetto-rigged. I couldnt get them to work and there was no visible reason why, so I simply by passed everything. I hooked up the positive and negative on the headlight fixtures directly to the positive and negative coming off the battery, with an on/off switch in between. So basically, the headlights operate independently of everything else. If I hit the headlight switch, they'll turn on even if the key is not in the ignition. When I charge the battery its usually at 12.52 volts, give or take maybe .02 volts.After running for an hour, its usually more or less the same. After a few hours, itll have dropped by maybe .01 or .02 volts or so, depending on how fast I was going and such. I can do some riding and get more exact numbers if need be. |
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Post by blarboose on Jul 8, 2014 18:17:31 GMT -5
...sssooooo about the issue with the lag at WOT? Im thinking its the fuel pump. Do you guys think its the fuel pump?
I went for a decently long ride today. I was able to do 40MPH pretty easy the whole way, but I couldnt get much faster unless I was going down hill. I couldnt seem to get any higher than 4K RPMS without it starting to lag.
Theres another minor issue that came up today; For some reason, the bike doesnt seem to be properly charging the battery. It doesnt die right out, but if I hook a battery up on Monday, and its at, say 13.5v, if I ride every day then by Friday itll be down to like 12v, and if I ride it after that, it'll probably die during the ride. This isnt a HUGE problem since I have 2 spare batteries, and I always keep at least one extra on the bike whenever I ride, but its still something Id like to fix at some point.
Anyway, my main concern right now is the lag and slow top speed. So, fuel pump? Yes? No? Maybe?
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Post by blarboose on Jul 7, 2014 22:27:23 GMT -5
HAHAHAHA, you guys really confuse the issue: The IDLE SPEED screw is the screw with the spring underneath that you use to adjust your IDLE. All it does is the same thing that your throttle cable does it rotates the spring loaded throttle control wheel which opens or closes the butterfly inside the carb. Turning that screw Clockwise pushs the throttle control wheel down and inside it opens the buttterfly a little more allowing for more air as well as uncovering more of the Pilot Jets fuel outlets which raises your idle(JUST AS IF YOU HELD THE THROTTLE A LITTLE OPEN..SAMEO SAMEO). Turning that screw Counter Clockwise allows the throttle control wheel to rotate up which closes the butterfly covering some Pilot Jets fuel outlets as well as cutting some air which in turn lowers the idle. The FUEL MIXTURE screw adjusts the amount of fuel allowed to be sucked out of the Pilot Jet to get the right mixture for the amount of air that is being drawn in. The fuel outlets for the pilot jet always suck out gas from the pilot jet all through the throttle range, as you open the throttle more less fuel is being sucked out of the pilot jet but fuel is always being sucked out. There is no cut off of fuel from those outlets they are all open at this time. The Needle attached to the SLIDE feeds fuel as it is being drawn up out of the defuser and main jet.The needle controls most of the fuel in the mid-range up to about 3/4 throttle when by that time the Needle is almost out of the defuser. Now all this time the fuel is being drawn from the MAIN JET and some from the PILOT JET. Once you get past the 3/4 throttle the needle is out as far as it can come out and you get as much fuel out of the main jet and past the needle as possible. Now you can control the amount of fuel in the mid-range by either lowering the needle or raising the needle or by getting a thicker needle or thinner needle. Thinner needle will allow more fuel to flow past the needle and a thicker needle tighter fit in the defuser less fuel will flow past the needle. So as you can see The Main Jet May Effect the mid-range depending on the thickness of the needle. Alleyoop Thank you. Thats what I was trying to say, but you did a better job of explaining it. Anyway, to get back on track; What are your reccomendations vis-a-vis the fuel pump or air hose based on what I said earlier? |
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Post by blarboose on Jul 7, 2014 19:43:35 GMT -5
Yeah,, I thought the air/fuel was just for the idle and maybe how the motor takes the fuel off idle,,the top is the main jet..I remember having an old Triumph with a clogged pilot and the motor ran like crap throughout the entire power band so you never know.. The air/fuel mixture is not for the idle. There is a seperate screw for that on the opposite side of the carb. The idle screw controls how far open the air intake stays when youre not using the throttle at all. More air = higher RPMS, so you can adjust the idle screw to change how many RPMS you idle at. The air/fuel mixture screw contains how much gasoline gets mixed with the air as it comes through the carb. |
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Post by blarboose on Jul 7, 2014 19:39:57 GMT -5
I know what u mean he said he richened it u and it ran a little better , but the plug is black? I would also say it's to rich and bogging because of this . Also isn't the air fuel mainly for idle ? No no, the OLD plug was black. The one I took out and replaced like a week ago. I have no idea how long it had been in there though. This is also before I started messing with the adjustment screw. The plug that CAME with the bike (which could be like 5 years old for all I know) was black when I took it out. This plug has been there for god knows how long, and has been there long before I started messing with the screws. The plug that is CURRENTLY in the bike is brand new. Its less than a week old, and I would assume its still (relatively) clean. |
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Post by blarboose on Jul 7, 2014 18:56:48 GMT -5
Wonder what size main jet you have in it? I bet its super lean from factory with a 103-105...might be happier with a 110-115.What does the plug look like,,really light colored? The plug was replaced literally not even a week ago, so thats brand new. The one that was in it before that, I have no idea how long it was in there, but it was basically blackened completely. |
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Post by blarboose on Jul 7, 2014 18:40:27 GMT -5
OK! Update time! Sorry I didnt get to this yesterday, but I got caught up helping some friends out with something.
Anyway, I adjusted the air mixture screw to richen it, and it DOES seem to have made an improvement. Now, itll get all the way up to 6K RPMS before it starts to stumble, and after that itll sort of swing back and forth between 6K and approximately 5700 RPMS. If I actually take it to WOT, it stumbles much worse and falls down to maybe 4800 RPMS, before climbing back up to maybe 5200 or so.
I turned the air mixture screw a full 900 degrees counter clockwise (2 and a half complete turns) so the mixture cant get much richer than it is now. Therefore, Im guessing maybe the fuel pump is unable to keep up at WOT? What do you guys think.
Also, I did adjust the idle screw too, so its idling at about 2200 RPMS or so. The wheel does still spin at idle a little bit when its propped up on the center stand, but if I turn the idle down much lower Im getting into the territory where it likes to occasionally stall out on idle. It seems to like it at around 2k or 2100 minimum. Anything lower and its mostly fine, but will stall out every once in a while.
So! What do you guys recommend? New fuel pump? Im also looking into a new air hose, as the current one gets significantly skinnier in the middle than it is on either end, and I figure that may be limiting air flow.
Id say its maybe approximately 2" in diameter where it attaches to the carburetor, 4" where it attaches to the air box/air filter, and it narrows to maybe 1" or so in the middle. (These are my best guesses by looking at them, so they may be off a bit.)
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Post by blarboose on Jul 6, 2014 1:45:20 GMT -5
rexxk: The air filter and everything is hooked up right, but I AM planning on getting a different air hose. The one currently on it gets kinda skinny in the middle and I figure thats limiting the airflow. I have no idea about the roller weights. I can only guess that theyre whatever comes stock. rockynv: Ive treated almost every tank of fuel since I got the bike with seafoam. It says 1 ounce per gallon and Ive been going probably a bit more than that. It has definitely helped, but I get the feeling it would be unwise to mix two different fuel additives in the same tank at the same time. Ive been considering running some seafoam in the oil as well, since the bottle says that it can be used that way too. Are seafoam Berrymans and just different brands of the same product, or does Berrymans do something different to the engine?
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Post by blarboose on Jul 5, 2014 20:37:38 GMT -5
I will try that out tomorrow and post the results. Thank you.  |
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Post by blarboose on Jul 5, 2014 20:00:19 GMT -5
Ok, so I went and looked at the belt and everything in there, and the belt didnt LOOK like it was worn or needed replacing, but then I dont really know what it should/shouldnt look like so... I took a video of the belt and everything when the bike is running. Hopefully some of you guys will be able to give me some insight based on it.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 5, 2014 15:19:47 GMT -5
I really really appreciate all the advice, but... most of this is flying completely over my head. I have no idea what a variator or a CVT or a CDI is. Honestly, cleaning out the carb was a bit beyond my comfort zone. Replacing the spark plug or fuel filter or air filter or changing the oil or adjusting the idle screw or air mixture screw is just fine, but all the stuff you guys are talking about now is way beyond me.
I dont mean to be ungrateful- I really do appreciate all the advice- Im just a noob at all this so I dont understand most of it.
Taking apart the carb was like just about as far as I feel comfortable going, but going into the motor itself and changing pistons or whatever else... yeah I dont nearly trust myself with that sort of thing.
Is there any way you could... kinda dumb down what has been said? What kind of things can I do that dont require pulling my bikes guts out and messing around with them?
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Post by blarboose on Jul 4, 2014 21:12:03 GMT -5
Im sure there's probably already a sticky or something for this, but I couldnt find one, so I figured Id just ask. Basically, Im looking to get a higher top speed out of my bike. Its a 2005 Tank tk150t-7, which I believe is also called the Racer 150. As it is now, I get a top speed of approximately 50MPH on a completely flat surface, with just me. Even a teeny tiny bit of an incline and I cant get more than 40 or 45MPH. Furthermore, adding just 25(ish) pounds of weight (in the form of a half dozen bottles of soda in the trunk and in my backpack) and my top speed drops down to 40MPH on a totally flat surface. Ive run seafoam in the gas tank several times, Ive cleaned the Carb, Ive replaced the air filter, fuel filter, fuel pump, and spark plug, and its got fresh oil. Im currently using 89 octane gas, but earlier today I filled up with  octane, but didnt notice any difference. What can I do, generally speaking, to get better top speed? Also, a related question; is there anything I can do to not end up with a lower top speed when I add weight? I eventually want to be able to ride while carrying a passenger, but if adding 25-ish pounds drops my top speed from 50 to 40, I cant imagine what adding a 150+ pound passenger will do. |
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Post by blarboose on Jul 3, 2014 20:43:49 GMT -5
HUZZAH! A new spark plug and some starter fluid did it. Its up and running better than ever! Thank you all so much for your help. :)
I do have ONE last question;
In the midst of trying to get it to start again after cleaning the carb, I did a lot of adjusting the air mixture screw, and Im honestly not sure where it should be adjusted to now. :p (before this whole thing, I had never messed with it so I have no reference point to where 'normal' is)
So my question is this; how many turns should it be, and in which direction? Right now I turned it clockwise as far as it would go, and then loosened it by 1 full 360 degree turn counterclockwise.
Where is a good place to have it?
Also which was is 'open' and which way is 'closed'? Like, if I turn it clockwise as far as it goes, is that all the way open, or all the way closed?
I realize I could just sort of run it for a while and adjust the screw as needed, but I would rather know for sure rather than leave it to trial and error.
Any and all advice appreciated, and again, thank you all so much for your help getting this fixed. :)
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Post by blarboose on Jul 2, 2014 21:41:41 GMT -5
Ok, I tested the spark plug as you said. It took me a few minutes to get at it so by the time I did, I couldnt tell whether it had been wet or not. (Sorry!)
However, I tested it as you said, and it did spark, although it was a fairly small spark. Here is a video of it:
The plug did look fairly dirty, so Im thinking Ill just get a new plug even if that isnt the problem. I dont know how old this one is, so it cant hurt.
Dragono: I dont have any starter fluid, and Im not 100% sure what you mean by the valves. Ive adjusted the idle screw and air mixture screw on the carb, if thats what you mean.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 2, 2014 20:10:00 GMT -5
Tested it as you instructed. Loosened the screw, cranked it, and fuel did indeed flow out for as long as I kept cranking it. Tightened the screw back up and wiped up any fuel that dripped onto stuff.
Still cant no luck with starting after tightening the screw back up.
(BTW, just wanted to take a second and say that I really appreciate all the help Im being given. Im still new at this so having a place like this to get advice is really great.)
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octane, but didnt notice any difference.