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Post by blarboose on Jul 24, 2014 21:32:23 GMT -5
I guess I have to order a CDI then. How do I tell if my bike needs an AC or a DC CDI?
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Post by blarboose on Jul 24, 2014 20:27:45 GMT -5
I dont have any parts lying around. Id have to order one. Even if I pay for rush shipping, nothing would get here until saturday at the very very earliest. : (
How could the CDI be bad though? I mean, it wasnt bad last night, and like I said, no one is here but me. A part cant just MAGICALLY go bad over night all on its, something has to CAUSE it to go bad. Unless someone broke into my house and messed with my bike without waking me, and left without taking or moving anything, nothing whatsoever happened to the bike overnight that could have CAUSED the CDI to go bad.
Is there anything else I could try? I NEED my bike to working NOW. I already missed work today because it wouldnt run. I CANT miss again tomorrow.
(I apologize for my ranting. Im not trying to be argumentative or anything like that, Im just REAAAAAAALY pissed off at this stupid bike for, esentially, not working for NO REASON. Like, it was working, NOTHING changed, and then it was magically not working. that pisses me off, primarily because its impossible. I mean, if I take a cup and put it on the table and leave it over night, it HAS to still be there in the morning. It cant just MAGICALLY change all on its own. In that same sense, if my bike is working, and I leave it overnight, it HAS to be working EXACTLY the same in the morning. The parts can just MAGICALLY change all on their own.
If you had a computer with windows 7 installed, and you went to bed, and you knew 100% for a FACT that no one touched the computer while you were asleep, you'd be pretty pissed off if you woke up and it just MAGICALLY had windows XP installed all of a sudden, wouldnt you? I mean, its literally physically impossible, but there it is, happening anyway, and youre completely screwed because of it.)
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Post by blarboose on Jul 24, 2014 19:04:49 GMT -5
Good luck hope that does the trick. Ok, update: Last night I went down and swapped out the new diaphragm for the old one. That seemed to do the trick. It ran, the throttle worked right, and I tuned the carb to a pretty good point. It was idling at just about 2000, and I got it up to about 7000RPMs at WOT, on the center stand. I was exhausted and needed to sleep, so I didnt take it for a ride at that point to test it. Today, I get up, go to start it... and it wont start. I try starter fluid, and it starts right up, even gets up to 8000RPMs at WOT on the center stand... but it wont idle. At all. Ive adjusted the idle screw, no effect at all. Ive adjusted the mixture screw, no effect at all. What's more, it doesnt even TRY to idle. Like, if I have it up at 3000RPMs or so, and let go of the throttle, it doesnt decrease down slowly down to 2000 (where it SHOULD idle) and like, struggle to stay there or kind of sputter and idle for a second and THEN die. Instead, it drops down to around 2000 and just keeps going. Once it gets down to 2000 the RPMs plummet and the bike just dies. I dont even see how this is possible, considering it was idling fine last night. Like, it was working fine, it idled just fine when I went to bed. Nothing changed over night, therefore, it MUST be in the exact same condition I left it, and therefore it MUST idle at around 2000... I mean thats like the first law of motion. "An object at rest will stay at rest unless acted upon by an outside force." in other words, unless something ACTS ON my bike to make something change, it HAS to be exactly as I left it. Im the only one at home, so unless magical bike pixies flew into my garage and used their pixie magic on my bike, it cant POSSIBLY have changed from when I left it last night. So how it can possibly be failing to idle now, when it idled fine last night, and nothing has CHANGED since then... well I dont even know.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 24, 2014 0:08:13 GMT -5
Going to try that now. Brb.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 24, 2014 0:03:42 GMT -5
If that is what is happening then it has to be bad gas, did it get rained on water may have gotten into the tank or maybe you just got some bad gas. It did get rained on, but that was on Saturday, and it worked completely fine on Monday, Tuesday, and today, up until I cleaned the carb and replaced the diaphragm. (Didnt ride it on Sunday. Plus, I filled the tank on Monday, two full days AFTER it got rained on. Do you think it could be the actual diaphragm itself? I mean, thats the ONLY things that's changed since it was working last. Do you think its worth it to try and swap the old one back in?
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Post by blarboose on Jul 23, 2014 22:36:17 GMT -5
Ok, I have now figured out that I do not have any kind of engine problem. This bike is simply the victim of voodoo magic. So, I figured maybe draining the carb might help. I use the drain hose (the one with the spring wrapped around it) and drain all the fuel out of the carb. Try to start it. Wont start. I expected that, so I spray some starter fluid into the air intake. It starts. AND THE THROTTLE WORKS! ...for about TEN SECONDS. I got it running, and the throttle was working properly. I revved it up, got it to maybe 6800RPMs, let it slow down and go back up a few times. All seems to be working, right? So I shut off the engine. I decide to start it AGAIN to make sure it still works. And, OF COURSE, now its back to the throttle doing the opposite of what it should. -__- So I have an idea... I shut it down and try more starter fluid. Just a quick spray. Start it up, it works RIGHT again! Shut it down. Start it again. STILL working right! Shut it down. start it up again... And its back to NOT WORKING. Somehow, having starter fluid in the mix when I start the bike makes the throttle work correctly. Starting it normal, without starter fluid, makes the throttle screw up again. And I know youre gonna say the fuel is too lean, but I tried that already. The mixture screw was at 2 and 1/2 turns when I first tried the starter fluid. I tried everything between there and 6 and 1/2 turns, and NO difference at all in the throttle working properly.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 23, 2014 21:50:24 GMT -5
Ah, are you sure you replace the diaphgram right it goes on only one way and was it seated in the grove it could be leaking there. Concerning the IDLE SPEED screw, let me ask this IS THERE ANY PLAY by the throttle grip before it even moves the control wheel. There should be about 1/8-1/4 inch free play before it actually turns the control wheel. You may have the cable already pulling on the control wheel. Well I mean theres really only one way you COULD put it in. The needle goes into the hole, and theres a little tab around the edge of the rubber part that shows you where it goes. The only thing that could possibly be put in wrong is the spring. And even then that couldnt really go in wrong. I mean it goes between the diaphragm and the lid part of the carb. Im lik 99% certain its seated in the groove properly. There is a bit of play in the cable. But what Im concerned about is that even if there wasnt, that wouldnt explain the problem Im having. Did you watch the video? How is it even PHYSICALLY POSSIBLE that turning the throttle could LOWER the RPMs? I twist the throttle, and instead of accelerating, the engine slows down!
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Post by blarboose on Jul 23, 2014 21:41:08 GMT -5
That is good that means the BUTTERFLY is way open turn the IDLE SPEED SCREW counter clockwise as if trying to lower the idle. When the Idle goes up then TURN the Fuel ratio screw clockwise a little to hopefully lower the idle. Let me ask did you do anything else when you took the carb off, did you take anything else off the carb or just the TWO JETS. The idle screw is barely turned at all. If I turn it counterclockwise even a couple turns its gonna be not even resting on the plate. EDIT: Look at where the idle screw is in the video. Its in basically the same place now, if not actually a bit further counter clockwise. When I opened the carb I sprayed out the two jets like you said. The only one I actually unscrewed/took out was the pilot jet, but of course I put it back in. I also opened up the top of the carb to replace the diaphragm.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 23, 2014 21:27:24 GMT -5
I let it idle and then turned the mixture screw clockwise. It did indeed cause the RPMs to go down, so we know the pilot screw is working.
Its not a problem of the mixture being too lean. At 2 and 1/2 turns it idles at maybe 2400. But Ive tried it with it up at 6+ full turns, and it does the same thing; idles just fine, but drops when I turn the throttle. It idled at maybe 3000 at 6 turns.
I also noticed that its even the same with the idle screw. If I turn the idle screw clockwise (which should INCREASE the idle speed) it instead drops it lower. And, if I turn the idle screw counter clockwise (Which should lower the idle) it increases it. is wrong with this throttle. O____O
How is this even physically possible? How can twisting the throttle make the RPMs DROP?
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Post by blarboose on Jul 23, 2014 21:19:33 GMT -5
Ok, here is a video of the problem. Note that this was BEFORE I screwed the lid back on the airbox, HOWEVER, even after screwing the lid tightly shut, the problem was exactly the same.
I did let it idle and then turned the mixture screw, but I was a dope and turned it counter clockwise instead of clockwise. I did INCREASE the RPMs a tiny bit, from around 2500 to 3000. Ill go back now and try doing it clockwise instead.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 23, 2014 21:08:31 GMT -5
Do you have the AIR FILTER ON? It is getting to much air make sure the clamps are nice and tight it is sucking in air from someplace. Also to verify that the PILOT JET is working, start it up and let it idle. Then start turning the FUEL RATIO screw CLOCKWISE 1/4 at a time and tell me what happens. AHHJHHH!!! That might be it! The air filter is on, but I DONT have the lid to the air box SCREWED ON! I took the screws out and just sort of rested the lid on it, because at first I kept having to spray starter fluid every time! Let me go screw the lid on and see if that helps. In the mean time, I do have a video of the problem in action uploading. Ill post it when its done. I REALLY appreciate all your help Alley! Hopefully we can get this fixed soon. I shoulda been in bed an hour ago for work tomorrow, but thats not gonna matter if I have no way of getting there. XP
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Post by blarboose on Jul 23, 2014 20:53:46 GMT -5
No no, the idle screw is fine. I turned it clockwise when I was cleaning the carb, but I turned it back before putting everything back in. The bike will idle just fine now (At about 2000RPMs), but the throttle is still acting up. The idle speed and idle screw are both fine. I looked at the carb where the throttle cable connects, and all that is correct. I started the bike and twisted the throttle, and it all looks normal, but for whatever reason, twisting the throttle seems to shut the bike down. Ill try and get a video but my phone is almost dead. EDIT: Yes I plugged the enricher back in. And I tried 1 turn, 2 turns, 2 and 1/2, 3 turns, 3 and 1/2, 4 turns... they all end up exactly the same. Bike starts fine (without starter fluid now) idles fine (At around 2000RPMs or so) but when I twist the throttle, the RPMs drop and the bike dies if I hold it for more than a half second.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 23, 2014 20:35:27 GMT -5
Ok, Turn the fuel ratio screw closed and open it up 2 1/2 turns that should be good for it to start and run pretty good. Now since you took the carb off the throttle cable may not be set right. When you took the carb off did you touch the IDLE SPEED screw if not that is good. So check where the throttle cable is and see if the Idle speed screw is touching the IDLE SPEED STOP PLATE. Or is it like this: I turned the idle screw to all the way open when I was spraying the carb cleaner (So I could see past the butterfly to see if the spray was coming out the pilot jet outlets) but I am 100% sure I twisted it back before putting the carb back in. I tried turning the idle screw a bit when it wouldnt run right, but Ill double check the cable and all that. So you're thinking that the mixture is too rich now? After I put everything back together, I twisted the micture screw all the way to closed, then twisted it 3 full turns before trying to start. Ill try some leaner mixtures and see if that helps. BRB.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 23, 2014 20:11:28 GMT -5
Take a needle or a pin and poke the tiny holes by the butterfly Alleyoop I managed to get it to spray through. I also replaced the diaphragm. Put everything back together, and tried to start it. It took a few tries, and some starter fluid, but I got it running. I got it to run at 7000 RPMs on the center stand, and that wasnt quite at WOT. If I took it to WOT, I would lose some RPMs like the problem before. BUT! Now its having a different problem! The throttle seems to be having the OPPOSITE effect it should! meaning, when I get it started, lets say for example its idling at 3000 RPMs (Im going to adjust the idle screw and all that after I get this solved) and if I twist the throttle, the RPMs DROP! If I hold the throttle for more than a second or two the engine will full out DIE! Also, If I start it (which right now requires starter fluid every time) and just let it run, it will stall out after a few seconds. Also, it seems like sometimes the throttle acts normally, but most of the time it acts like an anti-throttle and slows the engine/lowers the RPMs. HELP! Im kinda panicking because I have to ride my bike to work tomorrow and I cant do that if it isnt running. Please tell me what to do!
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Post by blarboose on Jul 23, 2014 19:02:46 GMT -5
Ok, I currently have the carb taken apart. I sprayed the carb cleaner spray as you said, but the spray is NOT coming out of the pilot jet outlets like in your picture! When I spray it in the main jet, it comes out near the needle like you said.
I have given the pilot jet maybe a dozen good sprays and its still not coming out. I even unscrewed the pilot jet and took it out, and tried spraying into the hole beneath, and there is STILL no spray coming out of the pilot jet outlets.
Thoughts?
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