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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2014 8:23:49 GMT -5
The size might be on the side if you look real close I can barely see it with cheaters on,,well I would try between 115-120 main and see how it runs..should put you in the ballpark.I have a 118 in mine now,,was running a 115 but had some popping under deceleration and my pipe was getting a little blue.Now she is running pretty darn good..lol You results may vary cause a 24 mm carb is more than enough for a 150,,even with a BBK,,the 26mm might be a little finicky to tune.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2014 8:17:49 GMT -5
That looks like good stuff spandi! Does it have the little valve on the bottom of the can that you break to mix the hardener in with it before you use it? Next time I paint I will use a better quality clear,,will keep you posted on how the cheaper Duplicolor Enamel holds up over black,,so far it looks great!
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2014 8:11:25 GMT -5
I also get the same thing , no dripping just wetness around the bottom of the gear box . I also have gear oil on the lower rear cvt cover screw when I pull it out . I'm sure it's just a bad gasket , I have some gasket paper that I'll probably use to make a new one . I also use synthetic . I figure most everybody gets this,,because I see it next to every gasket,,if I ever have to take my motor apart I will use new gaskets and some Indian Head shellac on them,,that will stop the seepage.Also a good idea to make sure the mating surfaces are very smooth,,Im sure they don't take the time at the factory to do this.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 18, 2014 21:23:09 GMT -5
Guys just curious if any of you get oil and or gear lube seepage around your seals and gaskets? Mine doesn't leak or drip,,but a few hundred miles after a wash I get oil seepage around the bottom of my crankcase and under my gear box,,just very light.Im sure its nothing to worry about,,it has been doing this since it was new,,maybe the bolts need to be snugged up some,,could be cause I'm running synthetic and it finds its way out a little easier?? I have 2800 km on it now..
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 18, 2014 21:17:54 GMT -5
Took a 35 mile ride (because I could) Im going to do a 50 mile rip tomorrow,,up to Delaware Water Gap Pa.,,I will stop in the ApalachianTrail on the way back,,awesome ride! Because I can as well..lol
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 18, 2014 17:56:25 GMT -5
Sorry Alley posted at same time
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 18, 2014 17:56:00 GMT -5
Its probably the switch,,you can check the plug real good make sure its tight and clean,,I would use a DMM and test the switch for continuity,,I bet you find that the continuity breaks when you wiggle the key on the ON posisition.As a last resort you can try to spray some CRC electronics cleaner in the switch and work it ON/OFF a few times,,maybe just a dirty contact...also check your main power wire from positive battery terminal,,the factory fuse in that link is way under par IMO. Check the ground as well...
Let us know...
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 18, 2014 15:47:43 GMT -5
Welcome Adam,, Lots of good peeps and info here to be had,,enjoy your stay! Sorry to hear about your loss man,,i cant imagine losing a child,,i have one of my own... Tom
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 18, 2014 14:21:29 GMT -5
Sounds to me like your muffler was butchered so many times I would start thinking about a performance pipe soon,,the motor will run much more efficient,cooler,and all around better.You will have to upjet the carb some though...other than that I might still have my ATM 150 Taotao exhaust hanging out in my shed,,you are welcome to it for a few bucks and the ride...it was used for maybe 2 hours,,thats it When you put the towel over the end of the pipe,,put your other hand under by the front and see if you feel the hot air coming out,,a new gasket is cheap... Yes a folded up towel held tight over the end of the pipe will kill the motor,,at least it does on mine..
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 18, 2014 9:01:30 GMT -5
pie eyed
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 18, 2014 6:53:08 GMT -5
butter pecan
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 17, 2014 7:23:30 GMT -5
The mount tabs are big enough to be grinded down without effecting the integrity of the mount so the shock wont hit anymore,I am going to check mine now and see if they are hitting,,my shocks are black and look just like yours.I always thought the bottom mounts looked a little under engineered..but never really looked at the top
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 17, 2014 7:09:55 GMT -5
So the slide was stuck,a motor will never run right unless it has an air filter/box on the carb or is jetted for the proper amount of fuel to match the air intake..white smoke could be valve seats also,,i would put an air filter on it and run it for a few miles,,it might clear up,,if not make sure there isn't any oil leaking onto the exhaust causing the smoke.If no oil leaks you could have engine issues.Did you over fill the oil?
HF has a good compression tester you can buy,if the kickstart is hard to push down by hand the compression is probably good.Since it was running I bet your piston/rings/cylinder is good,,your problem might be in the head??
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 17, 2014 6:46:25 GMT -5
Im sorry,,so you don't have a PAIR on that motor,its an EGR...well to me it sounds like something is not plugged up correctly...if its PAIR or EGR I would plug every hole on the motor except crankcase breather,two vac lines on the intake(one is for ACV other for petcock/pump),and the fuel tank vent.Maybe you have a small exhaust leak around where the header connects to the jug? Sorry for confusing you bro
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 16, 2014 14:37:27 GMT -5
I always like to add 1oz.of castor oil in the mix just for the smell,,nothing smells better than the bean oil
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