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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 20, 2014 8:00:45 GMT -5
Anybody ever tinker with the CV carb to try and get better performance,,snappier response,,smoother air/fuel delivery..
I was reading people have removed/cut one to one and a half coils off the diaphragm spring that pushes the slide back down,,they say it helps the slide go up quicker,along with drilling the air holes out bigger.Also filing down,deburring,and rolling the edges of the slide then polishing with steel wool.
Lets hear some of your mods and how they worked...
Here is a video I found on CV carb mods,,its for Harley but Im sure this would apply to our carbs as well,,minus the accelerator pump and different jet sizes..
I am going to try these mods on a junk carb I have laying around here..gotta love youtube,,once in a while you find a golden nugget!!
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 20, 2014 7:43:18 GMT -5
what did you attach the ground jumper to ? I would check for pulse voltage at the the bullet connector at the stator harness with it unplugged , then plugged in and see if there is a change . I have seen them fire for spark as low as .02vac . John I checked the AC voltage from my good known pulse pickup coil and it was .02vac while cranking,,I checked it at the CDI plug.The meter wont go any lower then 200vac so it could have been .15-.25 vac ya know...I do have a meter with a 200m and 2v setting I may try later to document a more accurate reading. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2014 22:29:43 GMT -5
Will do spandi,, Hey onewheeldrive,,I need to take my gearbox apart sooner or later might do some taller gears for when I get a cam and big port,,how hard was it to do and is the 50cc pretty much the same as the 150 ?? Thanks I haven't been in a 150cc box, but it shouldn't be any more complex (if at all) than a 50cc gearbox. It may just be different to access is all. I've seen scooters that you could change the gears by taking a plate off in the cvt behind the clutch. It was really easy to do on mine. I took off the exhaust, tire, clutch..etc (whatever to get access to it), took the gears out, and swapped them. Really cake. I used only the original gasket without any sealer or whatever (if there isn't any sealant, you can reuse it-- no tears at all). No leaks yet, and if needed, it's a lot easier to deal with than the crankcase halves. I knew/know that I'll be going back in there anyway-- no big deal. If the gasket tears it's not the end of the world if you ride it waiting on ordering a new one. Yeah,, Heck you could even clean it real good and use a small bead of gasket maker,,that will work good enough until you get a new one...I should probably get myself a complete gasket kit sooner or later,,i am going to need them. I might bite the bullet and get the press that HF has Im sure I will use it quite a bit in the future for pressing bearings. Thanks for the reply onewheeldrive! Tom  |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2014 21:50:17 GMT -5
Oh boy,,
Im not sure,I would say about $500 in parts and quite a bit of time,,I didn't keep track,,just a hobby for me..the performance is alot better than it was stock,,well the motor is still stock,,If anything the motor runs at its full potential now and is super efficient.
Im planning on doing a big port head,A9 cam,better intake,gear set,and will have to rejet so i will keep you all posted.
Thanks for watching!
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2014 21:44:58 GMT -5
Yeah,,
You really need to remove the bolt and clean it good with a good contact cleaner then re apply,,I'm not sure if they use thread lock on the case bolts,,but that might not be a bad idea as long as its the blue stuff..my scoot doesn't vibrate as much as I thought it would,,then again I don't go over 6K RPM very often either...
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2014 21:40:29 GMT -5
Will do spandi,,
Hey onewheeldrive,,I need to take my gearbox apart sooner or later might do some taller gears for when I get a cam and big port,,how hard was it to do and is the 50cc pretty much the same as the 150 ??
Thanks
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2014 17:11:21 GMT -5
I get that--- usually not from the gearbox though Is it necessary to re-torque our case and head bolts over time? Yeah,, My head had a small leak when I first got the scoot,,I torqued up the bolts when I was doing the first valve adjustment and the leak went away. I guess I should take the motor off the scooter next Winter and give it a go,,some of the case bolts are under the flywheel and behind the variator if I remember correctly...it will give me something to do in the basement while the snow is flying again...Ill let ya know if the seepage went away. I remember reading someplace that people let the motor run for like 30 minutes when they first get these to help seal all the gaskets,,I'm not sure if that is necessary or not,,I know I rode mine for more than 30 minutes when I first got it..lol |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2014 15:17:43 GMT -5
I completely missed that one Alleyoop,,man good job catching that,,you are 100% correct!
LOL!!!
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2014 14:29:37 GMT -5
What ohm reading are you getting on your pickup wire and ground should be between 40 and 300 ohms,,if not the coil is bad.
You say the wire appears in tack,,did you do a continuity test on the wire,,could be broke inside the insulation?
Test the plug wire also,,Ive seen them bad,,especially the connection at the coil where it screws into the stud,,never liked that idea..
Your getting AC to CDI 40v is a little low should be closer to 75v.
Make sure the motor has a good solid ground to the frame also...
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2014 14:23:14 GMT -5
No Jerseyboy, it isn't a 2 part spray. I tried a 2 part epoxy spray, (with button on the bottom for the activator) but got less than great results. Ok,,just checking,,i saw a guy using the two part stuff on youtube and his fender was pretty shinney when he was done.. My long ride for today got postponed due to inclimate weather,,will have pics and short video next week hopefully. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2014 12:39:48 GMT -5
Just put up a quick video of my scooter for anybody interested in how a GY6 150 will run and sound after some mods |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2014 12:37:28 GMT -5
Thanks for that info geh3333,,I have a long way to go before 12k miles..lol
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2014 8:39:52 GMT -5
The brakes on mine are fine,,the rear got better with time,,and like said you don't want to be able to lock up the rear,,I use them both at the same time too,,I will pull the rear in just a little and when I put my finger on the front the scoot stops on a dime,,the rear is good if you are in a corner and your not sure of the terrain but need a little braking action.Its easier to control a rear slide than a front slide..lol..my front brakes will put you over the bars,,especially after changing out the fluid with synthetic and bleeding Remember,,front brakes=75-80% of your stopping power and rear are 20% of your stopping power. The rear brake comes in handy if racing,,you can slide in the corners some,,but if you hit the front to hard in a corner you cant slide with the front,,you will go down fast! |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2014 8:35:32 GMT -5
fish eggs
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Help :)
by: jerseyboy - Jun 19, 2014 8:33:33 GMT -5
Post by jerseyboy on Jun 19, 2014 8:33:33 GMT -5
Was this with the 24mm or a 26mm carb like you stated you got in another thread,,makes a big difference?
26mm is overkill for a stock 150 let alone a bbk,,I know guys running 24mm on bbk 150's that are bad butted!!
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