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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 18:47:16 GMT -5
Hey Geh,,didn't you use Bondo on that PVC fan extension??,,maybe a piece of it broke off and got stuck behind the flywheel.
Man I wish it would warm up here,,I'm dying to roar around a bit and break in my BBK.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 15:36:23 GMT -5
Problem solved!
Its marked with bright green girly paint now..lol
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 15:32:06 GMT -5
Is there any lateral play in the crank?
I really don't think its the crank.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 15:27:22 GMT -5
Do a simple test on the stator..400-600 ohms between the two wires on a DVM and its good..
Does the headlight come on with key or when motor is running?
Sorry I didn't have time to breeze the whole thread..
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 10:18:51 GMT -5
I would pull the flywheel and check in the cavity there where stator is,,sounds like something light and small(almost like an oak leaf) flickering off the flywheel or the fan. With your mileage,,i would just keep running it like you do,,and start saving for a rebuild kit or I saw a motor NIB for $299 free shipping on ebay,,almost bought one just to have it for a spare.The stock motors run great with some more fuel and air! Yeah , that's sorta the plan . I bought this engine new off of eBay . the old engine had around 1000 miles on her ,but I wanted to start fresh with a new engine and I may be doing it again . I'll just let this engine run until she goes, which actually may not be for awhile . Its a GY6 I bet that motor will last another Summer easy..just keep it under 8K..lol
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 10:04:26 GMT -5
I would pull the flywheel and check in the cavity there where stator is,,sounds like something light and small(almost like an oak leaf) flickering off the flywheel or the fan.
With your mileage,,i would just keep running it like you do,,and start saving for a rebuild kit or I saw a motor NIB for $299 free shipping on ebay,,almost bought one just to have it for a spare.The stock motors run great with some more fuel and air!
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 9:54:15 GMT -5
Hey Geh,, Take the cover all the way off and see if it stops.
Might be that little rubber plug or the vent hitting something...maybe a stick in the vent snorkel? Could have sucked a stick or something in there and now its behind the fan,,you don't have a protective screen on it..
Did you have the flywheel off yet,,hows the stator look?
If it was a crank bearing it would keep making the noise..
Man that exhaust sounds good!
Too cold out there to be messin with it today..lol
Im off to try and find a small rubber hose for my intake/carb issue.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 7:18:48 GMT -5
Yeah I always keep a stock back up carb just in case I run into a problem where I know all jets/ports are clean with no air leaks and it still surges..how many miles on the scoot,,wonder if the crank seals are leaking?
I don't know enough about the enricher or ACV valve to say it may be them,,but I would check their functionality as well..
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 7:15:26 GMT -5
Neither,, I say George The Animal Steele. It looks like the only bald place he has is on the top of his head. Hahahaha,,lmbo!!!! good one!!
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 7:12:15 GMT -5
was it lubricated often or not,and how long did it last? i never did anything to it. scoot is 10 months old with nearly 13,000km Thats quite a bit mileage..bet if you lubed the cable it would still be good..when you get the new cable try to drip a bunch of oil down inside(between sheath and cable) before you mount it,,also good to put a dab of grease where the twist mechanism on handle grip is.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 22:40:45 GMT -5
So many times I rode home pulling on the end of a broken cable with my hand..fun huh...lol
Was really challenging on a Maco 250 10 miles of trails to get home..gotta do what you gotta do..
I think you could make one out of a bike cable too..was it lubricated often or not,and how long did it last?
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 22:19:50 GMT -5
Thats cool, don't rush it, maybe run it like that a little rich for the first 50 miles or so the rings will seat in the first 20 or so. It sounded a little throaty which indicates a little on the rich side. With the air cleaner off in the video you can see gas vapor spraying out the back of the carb when I opened it up..lol..more than enough fuel from the 120 main. Ive seen 2 strokes do that before also... Crappy flip phone pic,,well get R done with a short piece of rubber and some skinnier clamps Thats a nice intake John,,thanks!!
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 22:13:35 GMT -5
Thanks guys!! I got the performance intake on,,I cut some of the rubber off one side and the carb is in there,,the float bowl is right up against the cross bar,,so tomorrow I am going to go to the auto store or home center and get a piece of rubber hose,,
will cut it just long enough to cover the carb outlet and the inlet of the intake with the two butted together..all I need is a 1\4"man and I am home free,,if worse comes to worse Ill take it to my buddy at the machine shop and he can shorten it.
Unbelievable how much better it ran with the matched intake..holy smokes,,cant wait to take it for a ride!!
Yes Alley,, I will run it like it is for 50 miles or so,,then I will start playing around with the tune..I will set the A/F screw tomorrow though. Will try to keep it under 6K R's but its going to be hard..lol
Tom
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 20:36:14 GMT -5
COOL!!!!!!!! Easy on those new rings! RE: intake manifold Your intake port in your cyl. head is bigger than in an OEM head. If you use a stock intake manifold there will be a substantial lip where the smaller manifold meets the bigger port. This will mess up airflow pretty badly. Got mine to fit by tossing the molded rubber "tube" that came with the big manifold. Instead, I got an auto water hose the right diameter and cut off a 1 inch part (plus a pair of SS clamps). That allowed the carb to sit closer to the manifold, since the Taiwan "tube" has bibs on the inside that keep the manifold and carb apart just enough to cause interference problems. My 30mm pumper carb still has a small fit problem - the carb body casting includes a round projection on the right side (when installed) that is the "pumper" body, and this hits against the right side engine mounting tab that is part of the crankcase casting. But a small off-vertical turn of the carb (probably no more than a few degrees off vertical) gets it in there. Oh - and go easy on those new rings! Thats a good idea,,will try that tomorrow..bet it will run stronger once its matched up. Also I was always taught to break my rings in like you are gonna ride it..been doing it that way for 35 years never had any problems., I did let it sit and idle for 15 minutes or so before I ripped it up to 6k...lol..sorry for making you cringe
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 20:29:40 GMT -5
Yeah Alley,, I haven't touched the A/F screw yet,,its still set at its old spot..the pilot is a 36,,i tried a 42 and it was smoking fuel at idle. The main is a 120,,might go back to the 118 just to see,,but Its raining out here and cold so it wont be for a few days.
Stand by...
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