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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 20:13:19 GMT -5
All done!
Its a little louder than Im used too,,might just be cause I'm not used to hearing it with all the covers off...and these stiffer valve springs with the bigger cam making a little slam noise..also needs to be broke in.
Runs good,,idles,takes fuel..I will fine tune it when I get it all back together...
Could not use the performance 30mm intake,,no room,,so might have to mod something up.
The motor was already warm when I made the video,,it was running for 10 minutes or so..
Thanks for all the help and I will post videos of my speed on different terrains soon as it warms up a bit.
Tom
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 19:10:46 GMT -5
Yeah I felt it,,
Just wanted to be 100% sure my first time,, its running now...runs good,,sounds pretty throaty!!
Needs to be tuned under a load,,I have the air filter off now too,,so the UNI might change it slightly but not much..
The intake John sent me wont fit,,it hits the bar...no room...might just bore out my stock one a little.
Im uploading a short run video to youtube will post it on my BBK thread a bit later tonight..
Thanks for all the help guys!!!
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 17:21:38 GMT -5
Thanks so much for confirming that brother!! Thats the one I have it set up too,,now off to go finish. Take care!! Tom |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 16:25:41 GMT -5
I was not paying attention when I removed the timing chain as to where exactly the flywheel mark was,,there is a T and an F.. My question is Im not really 100% sure what mark to be on,,the T is above a bunch of marks,,should it be on the mark just below the T like I have it? Or should the magnet for the pup coil be right under the pup coil,,or should the magnet be at 12:00? Maybe somebody can take a pic of their flywheel at TDC close up too clear this up for me.. I dont want to torque the head nuts down until I'm 110% sure of the mark.. Here is a pic of where my flywheel is when my cam chain is correct..I have the mark UNDER the T lined with the pointer on the block? Thanks guys!! Tom   |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 11:53:47 GMT -5
Always put negative probe on green wire or better yet a good frame/motor ground when testing the stator for ACV.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 11:25:02 GMT -5
I loved YB when he played the Pharaoh in The Ten Commandments,,great actor!  |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 8:08:13 GMT -5
Neither,, I say George The Animal Steele.  |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 8:01:16 GMT -5
I wouldn't use thermal paste,,it needs to be a bit grittier,,if in a pinch I might try toothpaste(the white kind)but your better off just spending $6 and getting the Permatex.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 7:51:31 GMT -5
Only jerking under load could be fuel or spark related..a weak coil or CDI issue could cause this as well as fuel. Ive seen motors run fine under no or light load when only small amounts of fuel need to be burned to spin the motor,,then when a load is present with obviously more fuel added,,the spark is not strong enough to burn the added fuel properly. I guess I'll have to learn how to check the ignition system now. There is some great info in the back of this manual,,plus the video here is all you will need to know about it...Pg 50-56 in this manual. You can tell the manual was translated but its still has some very good info...I went to staples and had it printed out then spiral bound for the shop. www.familygokarts.com/manuals/ace/arrow150_engine_service_manual.pdfAnd this video is good..taught me a ton about the GY6 ignition system. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 23:43:26 GMT -5
I think mine came with 13g rollers stock..I love my 13g sliders man..I still want to try 14g rollers one of these days,,but am so pleased with my sliders..seems like they shift into higher gearing faster,,great for me cause I like to cruise 40-50 MPH under 7K RPM.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 23:36:13 GMT -5
jerseyboy Just a note about if the tests done on the cams outputs were on a stock gy6 or not. According to the HP readings they were getting, their engine(s) had to at least have a free flow exhaust with a good intake and probably a complete performance ignition. Yes you are 100% correct about that,, No way will a stock ignition setup see 10k RPM's..LMAO!!! |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 23:32:10 GMT -5
I just saw this problem on a john deere tractor a few weeks ago here..ran good till under load then fell on its face sputtering and acting like a fuel or air leak issue..ohmed out the coil and saw it was way out of spec..replaced it with a new coil...BINGO.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 23:26:14 GMT -5
Yup and on the opposite wire(usually a red/blk)on the 2 pin comes from the stator if AC you will see 70-  AC volts under cranking depending on how fast she cranks over... Just wanted to add some values too look for.. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 23:20:56 GMT -5
This is a great thread! Glad I found it and thanks for taking the time to do this scooter! Tom  Thanks, Jersey! I need to test my new scooter like this. I am "jerking" at top end wide open throttle and I suspect either a vacuum leak or a bad fuel pump. I think I'll try propane testing around the vacuum lines and, if I find nothing, I'll pull the pump and clean it. I think the electric is okay. It only jerks on the road, not on the stand and I think it's a fuel issue. I need to learn about doing compression tests. I like what you were saying about leakdown testing. That sounds like a very useful tool. Only jerking under load could be fuel or spark related..a weak coil or CDI issue could cause this as well as fuel. Ive seen motors run fine under no or light load when only small amounts of fuel need to be burned to spin the motor,,then when a load is present with obviously more fuel added,,the spark is not strong enough to burn the added fuel properly. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 20:27:54 GMT -5
This is a great thread! Glad I found it and thanks for taking the time to do this scooter! Tom |
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AC volts under cranking depending on how fast she cranks over...