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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 20:19:28 GMT -5
I cleaned the carb before but I forgot when. wouldnt hurt to do again. Shouldn't be any air leaks but I do need to zip tie the rest of the vacuum hose. I don't really know if the valves are leaking. I'm going to liquid test them when I take the head off to fix the exhaust studs. Does scrappy dogg scoots sell stainless steel exhaust studs? Im not sure bro,,but he might. Yeah the liquid test works great! Also I got a cheap compression tester from HF that works awesome,,if you find low compression you can also use the quick disconnect on a homemade leak down tester I made from an old air regulator,black pipe,JB weld,drill,teflon tape,and a couple connectors. There are a few videos on youtube how to make it. By listening to where the air is hissing from will pin point your leak,,hissing from carb air filter inlet would be intake valve,from exhaust pipe,would be exhaust valve,from oil filler hole would be bad rings/piston/bore issue...also listen or spray soapy water around head gasket to make sure its not leaking. Very cool diagnostic tool,,a must have IMO. Piston must be at TDC for testing.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 19:45:33 GMT -5
Wonder why the motor is surging in the video??
Is the exhaust leaking around the head?
How clean was the pilot jet/ports and are there any air leaks?
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 19:38:09 GMT -5
Scooter,, You should pick up a HF shop press also,,i got the 20 ton one on sale for like $150,,reviews said the ram frame was sloppy in the main frame. It did have a little side to side slop but I fixed that right up by inserting four of those sticky slider pads used for the bottom of your furniture so it wont scratch the floor..Wally World had them and now its tighter than a bullfrogs butt hole 10ft under water..sweet press..I got the orange one. Used it for GY6 drive gears,leaf spring shackle bushings and mower blade spindle bearings so far..works awesome and is a must for any inspiring small engine/auto tech. Also would like to add HF has an awesome 3 piece gear puller set,,the smallest one believe its 3" will work perfect for the infamous starter gear on the GY6 that gives everybody a hard time.The blind hole bearing puller is on my list too,,remove any bearing with the slam of the slide hammer.Quick and easy,,no fussing around with hammers,sockets,and punches anymore... Tom Will do. I used to use a big 4" electric powered hydraulic press for industrial stuff. SCA-RY! That thing would bend the 2" thick frame around like it was plastic, and the noises that thing would make! OOOEEEE!!! I wished I go hide around the corner and operate it from a safe distance, and behind some walls! Hahahaha,,lmbo!! Thats kinda how I feel when using this press,,its got so much force its scary,,man if something ever where to rocket out of that thing it would be scary indeed. We had a hydraulic press and sheer at work and those are some forces to recon with.Seeing 1' cold rolled steel punched in front of your eyes is a little disheartening..lol
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 15:20:24 GMT -5
Really what can go wrong with it other than the bottle jack leaking,,its all steel and rated for 1K lbs. I think the people who bent the bar where lowering very heavy loads suddenly onto the safety bar,,if you go easy there shouldn't be a problem. Like most HF stuff,,a few upgrade mods always can make them better..I would build my own wheel chock for it.. The only thing I don't get about the the chock, not the vice, is that if you put down the center stand the bike goes back several inches, so I'm not really using it. If I built a chock, I'd make it adjustable like the vice is, so I could put the bike on the center stand and then push or screw the chock back to the tire. From what I gather, some people want the tall wheel chock, with sides on it, so they can back the bike up into it and it will hold up their bike while they strap it down. That sounds convenient. Scooter,, You should pick up a HF shop press also,,i got the 20 ton one on sale for like $150,,reviews said the ram frame was sloppy in the main frame. It did have a little side to side slop but I fixed that right up by inserting four of those sticky slider pads used for the bottom of your furniture so it wont scratch the floor..Wally World had them and now its tighter than a bullfrogs butt hole 10ft under water..sweet press..I got the orange one. Used it for GY6 drive gears,leaf spring shackle bushings and mower blade spindle bearings so far..works awesome and is a must for any inspiring small engine/auto tech. Also would like to add HF has an awesome 3 piece gear puller set,,the smallest one believe its 3" will work perfect for the infamous starter gear on the GY6 that gives everybody a hard time.The blind hole bearing puller is on my list too,,remove any bearing with the slam of the slide hammer.Quick and easy,,no fussing around with hammers,sockets,and punches anymore... Tom
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 14:09:16 GMT -5
Really what can go wrong with it other than the bottle jack leaking,,its all steel and rated for 1K lbs.
I think the people who bent the bar where lowering very heavy loads suddenly onto the safety bar,,if you go easy there shouldn't be a problem.
Like most HF stuff,,a few upgrade mods always can make them better..I would build my own wheel chock for it..
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 13:14:22 GMT -5
Yeah I hear ya,,I dont ride much at all in Winter,,if so I have some ski pants and really thick gloves,,full face helmet with same face mask that you have,,i use it when shoveling snow. My 03' Ford Ranger 4x4 gets used more in the Winter,,scoot in spring -fall. Yeah bro,,take the fuel cap off,,but first see if you are getting flow with it on,,then take it off and see if it comes out faster..bet he has a clogged/frozen vent or line somewhere.You might want to try a high flow vacuum pump like a Mikuni,,or hook up a small 12v electric low pressure pump,,they work great,,and if they ever fail just bypass it with a piece of line to get home..they will pump fuel uphill no strain...and your bowl will never run empty even if the float level is a bit off. This morning,,same amount of Rem oil in my head combustion chamber so i guess my valves are pretty sealed You are good to go, if the back side even the sparkplug hole are completely dry then you have a 100% air tight seal. It's a simple, easy and very correct way to know. That new head I mentioned was so bad the WD-40 would pour through it. Never again.
JR
Completely dry,,no sign of oil anywhere..100% ready to rip roar... Thanks again JR. Tom
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 11:58:38 GMT -5
I've seen vidoes on youtube where they lift 800 pound bikes no sweat! I would like one too,,was going to get one possibly this week but I found a $300 150 scoot on CL that I want to flip first.
Its amazing how you can make $$ just flipping stuff on CL,,bought an ESP LTD FM 401 guitar for $250 a couple weeks ago,,just sold it for $400 yesterday...only $ out of my pocket was $20 for fuel to go get the guitar.
I have one of those craftsman motorcyclist lifts,,its doeskin go that high and would have to take all the bottom panels off the scoots to lift them,,so I'm probably going to sell that on CL as well..
I will have one of these HF lifts sooner or later..
Tom
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 11:42:22 GMT -5
Im curious as well to become a small dealer for Taotao and SYM someday for supplemental income....
I did talk to Tomos a while back and they said I would have to put out the $$ for 5 new 150 scooters on crates,,it came to $4k around about,,the resale was around $1700 each for them thats $4500 in your pocket,but don't forget you need to do all the PDI and sell them first lol,there is work involved,,I would like to do about 5 a month out of my 12x24 shed here..Tomos said that would be no problem,,just need to cough up four grand..lol
It would be wise to offer two types of quality,,the lower more affordable Taotao then a Tomos or SYM,,best of both worlds.
A very good customer service plan is important,,also servicing and repairing the scoots will be your bread and butter when sales are slow. Offer plans from full service that includes complete inspection,carb adjust,fuel lines/filter,CVT,belt,gear box,oil change,valve inspection adjustment if needed,cables lubed,air filter,plug,brakes,plastics are tight..the list goes on and on...washing/degreasing their scoot is always a good practice in keeping a customer happy too.
Going the extra mile and doing these things correctly will put you above the other shops!
Tom
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 11:26:50 GMT -5
Yes,, Mine center sprocket hole is lined up with that notch on both my cams by eye..the Taiwan cam looks much better quality than my chinese.
My A10 Taiwan also does NOT have a cam stopper on it to worry about,,so now I can spin my motor backwards if I need too.
The A8 and 14 are very similar in the chart above yours..looks like both are close in the bottom then the 8 has a bit better in the mid,,then the 14 has a small advantage in the top after 8k..but like I said it all depends on how the tests for the chart where performed,,not enough info on what setup they used to extrapolate that info...more testing needed.
I really appreciate the info with the chart Wilds!!,,I will put it in my scooter file brother!!
Tom
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 11:11:36 GMT -5
How many miles do you ride it everyday in the cold? I usually take it 3 days out of the week . i take it 15 miles one way , so 30 mile round trip. So far the coldest I've road in this winter has been 12 degrees . layers and wind breakers are the key. Also a full face helmet is a "must have" with a face mask that tucks in under your layers. The only thing I haven't perfected are my hands . anything under 20 degrees and my hands begin to hurt after about 7 to 10 miles . Yeah I hear ya,,I dont ride much at all in Winter,,if so I have some ski pants and really thick gloves,,full face helmet with same face mask that you have,,i use it when shoveling snow. My 03' Ford Ranger 4x4 gets used more in the Winter,,scoot in spring -fall. Yeah bro,,take the fuel cap off,,but first see if you are getting flow with it on,,then take it off and see if it comes out faster..bet he has a clogged/frozen vent or line somewhere.You might want to try a high flow vacuum pump like a Mikuni,,or hook up a small 12v electric low pressure pump,,they work great,,and if they ever fail just bypass it with a piece of line to get home..they will pump fuel uphill no strain...and your bowl will never run empty even if the float level is a bit off. This morning,,same amount of Rem oil in my head combustion chamber so i guess my valves are pretty sealed
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 10, 2015 21:28:50 GMT -5
1 hour level is still same and ports are all dry,,used Rem Oil.. Thats a great idea I will remember..
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 10, 2015 21:14:27 GMT -5
Mine was idling a little faster than that Geh around 1800,,I like it where you have it,,nice and low sounds mean.. If that thing ran this long and as good as it does,,you must have done something right I'm really happy with how she's treated me . I did run into some small issues this season but nothing too serious . at least not yet . I'm expecting to be near 20,000 miles by the end of the. Cold season How many miles do you ride it everyday in the cold?
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 10, 2015 20:17:17 GMT -5
Mine was idling a little faster than that Geh around 1800,,I like it where you have it,,nice and low sounds mean.. If that thing ran this long and as good as it does,,you must have done something right
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 10, 2015 18:32:22 GMT -5
Looks great,,your still going to see a little shadow area where the cylinder is beveled thats normal.
Pilot jet controls idle not main jet..might want to play with that first if the idle adjuster screw doesn't help any.
Also the A/F screw will cut off idle if not set right...
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 10, 2015 17:50:21 GMT -5
Might have water frozen in the vent line or somewhere else with this weather..glad you narrowed it down bro...
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