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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 18:59:19 GMT -5
Man I cant wait till it warms up a bit,,i was frozen solid in just 2 miles,,dont know how the heck Geh does it  That Geh, he's a trooper! He is a tough dewd man,,tougher than me,,thats for sure...today was kinda warm compared to the days he was out.. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 18:56:22 GMT -5
jerseyboy It says it features DC power supply in the description,,if your headlight comes on with the motor you have AC feeding the CDI,,not sure if that one will work for ya...as I have never heard of a dual phase CDI 
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 18:48:11 GMT -5
Yeah,, Im pretty new to these GY6 motors,,I guess I need to build some more trust in them,,7K just seems like its a bit too high for cruising long periods of time to me on one..especially in the hot Summer time. I was cruising around 5-6K all Summer at 40-45 MPH with my stock setup.My heavy sliders get me into high gear pretty quick and I like the lower RPM,,still had plenty of power to pull me up the big hills even at 5-6K. My goal is to get the RPM down to around 5.5k and cruise at 50 with some pulling power left,,its gonna be hard because their is no replacement for displacement,hopefully the BBK will help me accomplish that..probably not..lol I will probably get another motor this Spring and set it up with lighter rollers/sliders so I can run 7-8K cruising 50 or so. Will put this motor to sleep on the bench for a while..and see how the higher RPM works out for longevity.I know my stock setup would start blowing oil out of the breather if I ran 6K for long periods of time...might have just been a little over full. I was running 7500 all summer in FL on my gy6-150. The engine seemed to take it well but the CVT would get pretty hot. When I switched variators, I didn't have the power to pull the new one and my RPMs were low, even with very light rollers. I like to accelerate at 6500. I switched to the lightest sliders I could find and got good results. You can use fine variator shims to fine tune your RPMs too. Nice to know,, I was just out for a couple mile test ride on it and it runs great,,was taking the fuel really good,its got alot more grunt and sounds about two tones lower in pitch than it used too lol. I wanted to take it easy so I just went up the road about 45 mph 1 mile out then back,,i ripped it up wide open once real quick and it accelerates at about 6K from what I saw,,but my eyes are getting pretty bad so not 100% sure. It took me a few hours of putzing around to get all the shrouds and plastics back on the scooter..I also had to adjust the A/F screw OUT some,,the idle went higher as I turned it out about half a turn then it settled there so I left it,,guess it needed a little more fuel on the bottom. Ill probably get one of those NCY oil coolers and a better clutch and bell soon,,also an electric fuel pump then Im done for a while..lol..darn scooters beat up your wallet a little..lol Man I cant wait till it warms up a bit,,i was frozen solid in just 2 miles,,dont know how the heck Geh does it |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 13:51:05 GMT -5
Thats pretty cool brother,, But the last thing I think about is tunes when Im ripping around on my GY6,,I love to hear the motor  Dont need any fancy lights or flashy bells and whistles,,just mo power!! |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 12:14:45 GMT -5
Upgrade stator to 11 pole,then parallel two batteries,then put a 500 micro farad cap in the circuit too,,you wont have anymore problems.
You may have to upgrade the wire harness on those supply wires,I would go up a few gauges to be safe..
And dont forget fuses..
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 12:10:22 GMT -5
I agree, testing all the connections that travel into the CDI will isolate the failure or conclude that the CDI is the failure point. Or using a spare CDI could test for its failure. Yeah,,they are so cheap I have like 5 of them laying around and two under my seat..lol |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 12:01:34 GMT -5
Yeah,,
Im pretty new to these GY6 motors,,I guess I need to build some more trust in them,,7K just seems like its a bit too high for cruising long periods of time to me on one..especially in the hot Summer time.
I was cruising around 5-6K all Summer at 40-45 MPH with my stock setup.My heavy sliders get me into high gear pretty quick and I like the lower RPM,,still had plenty of power to pull me up the big hills even at 5-6K.
My goal is to get the RPM down to around 5.5k and cruise at 50 with some pulling power left,,its gonna be hard because their is no replacement for displacement,hopefully the BBK will help me accomplish that..probably not..lol
I will probably get another motor this Spring and set it up with lighter rollers/sliders so I can run 7-8K cruising 50 or so.
Will put this motor to sleep on the bench for a while..and see how the higher RPM works out for longevity.I know my stock setup would start blowing oil out of the breather if I ran 6K for long periods of time...might have just been a little over full.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 9:22:04 GMT -5
I actually used bondo on my fan cover . however I replaced the fan cover last season. I'll have to pull the cover and the fan off again and record a video to see if it makes the noise . Yeah,,I would pull it again and check behind it,,then put it back on with no fan or cover and run it for a while and see,,if it still makes the noise then it may very well be internal.It sounds like a plastic cluncky/ticking sound to me but you never know.You said you checked the oil pump and chain right? Usually when ever I had a bad crank bearing or something metal going bad the noise just stayed there and got worse with time..but stranger things have happened with these motors. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 9:14:58 GMT -5
Looking good man! I broke my engine in by setting my scoot up on it's center stand and turned the idle up to 5k (no belt on the cvt). I had a fan pointed at it and ran it for about an hour. I sat with it the whole time and played with the idle speed as to not just run it at 5 k. I would also blip the throttle every now and then. It was interesting to hear the motor break in. In the first 20-30 mins you could actually hear the rings seat. Yeah thats one way of doing it,,so much controversy on breaking in rings,,I always just ran it like I was going to ride it. Make sure its all warmed up then just get on it and go...been doing it that way for over 35 years,,mostly with two strokes,,on this motor I will take it easy the first 50-100 miles keep it under 5K or so,,might hit 6k a couple times..lol..I like to break them in under a load since thats the way they are going to be running 99% of the time,,under load. Tom |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 9:08:43 GMT -5
sorry to hear the intake will not work , I sent an extra spacer and gasket with the idea of that helping with the angle . If you want I'll take that back . As for your back firing has that subsided since you re worked the cam and crank position ? I'm back to work from vacation so I'm here less . John No its going to work now John,,I just need to take the blue rubber off and get a short piece of hose with skinnier clamps,,that will give me the 1\4" I need.The carb is in there now but the float bowl is rubbing up against the bar slightly.It will work as is but I want to get a bit of clearance just to be safe,,don't need a hole in the bowl on a hot Summer day  Thanks for all you did John,,I appreciate the extra parts,,Im sure they will come in handy! I never had a backfiring issue with my motor John,,just normal pupping on decel is all,,runs great!! Tom |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 9:00:54 GMT -5
Well yes and no,,
The CDI is a closed circuit meaning you really cant get a proper reading from any of the components inside the unit without taking it apart and removing or unsoldering them from the board.But the test will give you an idea if something is flakey.Thats why the test values are so large,,because its just a vague test.
The best way to rule out a CDI being good or bad is to test all the connections on the six way plug that feeds it,and sends voltage to the coil.If that plug tests out good on all of its values then the CDI is more than likely bad,,or the wire from CDI to feed coil primary...and or possibly the spark plug wire that comes out the secondary could be bad too.
I never saw a CDI tester but its just as easy to snap a good known CDI into the plug.
See anybody can just snap a new CDI into the plug/circuit but your not really learning anything about the electronics of the scooter.I myself like to know how and why things work the way they do.Its alot easier to find a problem IMO.
The solenoid terminals are in a series when the switch closes,,thats why you can jump them with a screwdriver to start the motor.You are just completing the 12v circuit to the starter motor.
Tom
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 22:37:40 GMT -5
Yes,,
Those are Ohms and it shouldn't matter,,if there is a shorted/open diode in there you will see it in a flakey reading.
If you are getting ACV from stator or (430-630 ohms on stator wires),,on/off switch continuity,, good pick up coil reading 140-163 ohms,,continuity from primary side of coil to CDI plug,and good ground at the plug,,that rules out everything on the scooter is working like it should so it would have to be the CDI or something else like the coil,,but you said the coil was tested good I believe.
The primary side(two tabs that supply the coil from CDI/Ground) of your coil should show low resistance 1.9-2 ohms,,the secondary side(side your spark plug wire comes out)should have a high reading like 2K-4K ohms add 2K if wire and boot are in series.
This electrical troubleshooting is very important to learn IMO,,its never a good idea to just throw parts at a machine and hope to fix it getting lucky.Using this method you can pinpoint the problem area and find the culprit causing the problem.
Hope that helps...
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 22:15:32 GMT -5
Here is a chart with some values to look for on a good AC fired CDI. I never had any problems with my 6mm exhaust stud/nuts...I never over tightened them,,just snugged then up every time I change oil. Now I have the 8mm that came with my BBK and they are a little beefier.  |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 19:03:34 GMT -5
Yeah the crank seals are fine. I actually replaced a leaking one recently but before when it was leaking, there were no surges. As for the enriched, I actually sealed it off with jb weld a long time ago, so that's completely out of the equation. But I haven't had any issues riding back then. It could be the cold weather, which I assume colder air is denser which in turn leads to a leaner condition? But the weird thing is that it doesn't always act up during my ride. It would only randomly surge at 2200 rpm at stop lights. As for my idle, even at 2200, my clutch isn't engaging or slipping. So it's not glazing my pads. I just find it awkward why it only randomly happens sometimes and not all the time, when nothing else has changed during the ride It could very well be a bad batch of corn fuel,,where did you fill up last? Id run it a tank or two and see if it doesn't change...obviously try to get fuel at another station. Dump a few oz. of that Lucas fuel treatment in it as well,,that stuff is amazing...$4.89 walley world. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 13, 2015 18:59:59 GMT -5
So if you headlight came on only with motor running you have an AC CDI.
Yeah make sure all your grounds are solid..I would check them also with a DVM for full continuity.
Did you take an OHM reading yet on stator wires with your DVM?
With a stock bore you don't need a bigger main jet than 115,,even with UNI and free flow exhaust.I have a 38 pilot in mine and its plenty too run at idle with 60mm BBK and stock 24mm carb.The main is 120...I ran a 115 in it for years on a stock block,,it ran sweet!
Maybe you are one tooth off on the timing,,I was worried about that when I did mine..
Hope you get it going good soon.
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