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Post by Tripper on Jun 7, 2013 12:06:05 GMT -5
its a. 4t. I keept adjusting the AF with the cardboard off, no luck. So that ment too much air. Now I need to lower the needle to see if I can get a lil more top end, idk, it might work.
The cardboard trick is an oldschool motorcycle trick.
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Sophomore Rider
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Use the force, if it breaks,it nedded to be fixed anyway!
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Post by Tripper on Jun 6, 2013 21:15:36 GMT -5
I put a piece of card board in my uni air filter and fixed the vrapp. My top speed is 40 on the speedo really like 37. I have a performance head I have to replace the threads on the plug, got the kit and all. And I may need a # jet. Its blowing gas out the air filter as a mist. Prolly need to lower the needle. At any rate I'm stoked. Thanks for all the help everyone!
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Sophomore Rider
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Post by Tripper on Jun 4, 2013 22:20:41 GMT -5
Plug is light brown. Witth black ring. Drilled out small jet to #100. Bogged out and vrapped all the way threw accelaration. Put old # jet back in, runs good, but same top end vrapp. I'm out of expendable cash till Fri after next so, ill have to deal with it for a couple weeks. Got my old head I'm going to replace the plug threads on, its a performance head, large ports. To keep me busy till then...
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Sophomore Rider
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Post by Tripper on Jun 4, 2013 7:00:39 GMT -5
Oh I put the muffler back on, too many dirty looks!
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Post by Tripper on Jun 4, 2013 0:15:08 GMT -5
I use # main jet with my NCY 47mm bbk and if memory serves me right, you have the Airsal 50mm kit. You need a bigger main jet than # . Also double check with your valves and cam timing alignment. How does your plug look? Man... I checked and doubble checked the timeing. One tooth either way and the holes didn't line up, the timeing holes are lined up, but the top hole is about a milimeter back too far. That leads to an issue with the timeing mark on the fanwheel, the T mark drops about 5mm below the timeing mark. Almost aligning with the center line of the T. To me it seems equal...1mm back on the cam timeing, 5mm back on the fanwheel. But I am a TOTAL NOOB! Valves are set to .004 both. The vrapp issue seemed to get better when I up jetted, and more so when I lifted the needle. But the bike could just be trying to get into my head...jk 1. Can the timeing be adjusted by makeing the piston flush with the cylinder and then adjusting the fanwheel? Now that I said that out loud I don't think the fanwheel marks themselves magicly controll the timeing its the piston to cam. 2. I found some 1mm 1.2mm and 1.5mm bits, I'm going to drill out my #75 or whatever size jet and see if that fixes the problem. I'm not touching the # jet. Plug check tomoro...
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Post by Tripper on Jun 3, 2013 15:49:07 GMT -5
Well, it performs better but still vrapp. I think it may need a bigger carb. I'm gona go up a jet first, but idk if that will slove the problem.
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Post by Tripper on Jun 2, 2013 22:20:16 GMT -5
So I was haveing issues with my bbk causing burping or vrapping. I up jetted and lifted the needle, still vrapped. Well I figured the uni air filter was allowing too much air for the exaust. And causeing the problem. So I took the muffler off and left the header pipe, it is loud but sounds great! And so far, no more vrapp. Ill kno for shure tomoro.
Constructive criticizim is apreciated!
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Post by Tripper on Jun 2, 2013 21:50:41 GMT -5
So I took the top end off my muffler to see if my bike would quit vrapp or burping. So far it seems to work. I belive the baffel was causeing too much back pressure with the open air filter. Now its just the straight pipe, runs much better. Ill see the full results tomoro on my way to work.
Now it sounds like a Harley when I crank it! ;D
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Post by Tripper on Jun 2, 2013 16:31:54 GMT -5
If your jets are small, you can twist the A/F screw till your blue in the face, won't change the size of the jet.
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Post by Tripper on Jun 1, 2013 23:20:47 GMT -5
So, my scooter is pretty loud. Looks like factory exaust. But with the open air filter its pretty loud, like chain saw loud. Had a Yamaha C3, it sounded like a vacume cleaner. But that's because I never modded it!
Vote! And post up!
Will
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Post by Tripper on Jun 1, 2013 18:37:52 GMT -5
I lowered the clip. Much better, but I still got a small burp after holding WOT for an extended period of 50-60 second. I turned the A/F mix back 1/2 turn and haven't had a problem so far... but my A/F is out about 2 1/2 turns. So I may drop the clip to the last notch. And hopefully set the A/F right.
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Sophomore Rider
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Post by Tripper on May 31, 2013 22:32:01 GMT -5
Ok well, I still had a vrapp here a vrapp their. So I put in my main jet. Still a tiny vrappp just barely. So I'm going to try adjusting the needel. I'm going to do it tomoro,so speak up if anyone thinks this could be a bad idea, or whatnot. Ill report my findings tomoro. Hopefully my experiences will help someone else.
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Post by Tripper on May 31, 2013 21:20:54 GMT -5
Do you mean a tool to hold the clutch together to get the contra spring off?
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Post by Tripper on May 31, 2013 7:26:35 GMT -5
Scooter parts international, Airsal 50mm bbk, its aluminum! Not korean pot metal! Like the one on ebay. Nickle plated jug. $67 with shipping. Pay the $10 extra! , get two! I'm gona get anotherone just to have in a couple weeks.
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Sophomore Rider
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Use the force, if it breaks,it nedded to be fixed anyway!
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Joined: May 16, 2013 22:26:39 GMT -5
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Post by Tripper on May 30, 2013 23:56:19 GMT -5
I just did my bbk last week. Made a point not to change anything before hand so I would have a better idea of what was up if something went wrong. Waited a couple days before changing cdi and coil. New carb was already on the motor. Screwing with the a/f before you crank it leaves all kind of windows open imho. I would go back to what you kno worked, except the bbk, that might be taking it too far. And see if it starts. I hear you can check your valves with printer paper. I kno how you feal tho. After my install, my batt didn't have enough amps so I went up to a 9amp, then my starter craped its pants. The whole bike will be rebuilt at this rate not a bad thing tho, its fun, I'm learning a lot !
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