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Post by Tripper on Jun 2, 2013 22:20:16 GMT -5
So I was haveing issues with my bbk causing burping or vrapping. I up jetted and lifted the needle, still vrapped. Well I figured the uni air filter was allowing too much air for the exaust. And causeing the problem. So I took the muffler off and left the header pipe, it is loud but sounds great! And so far, no more vrapp. Ill kno for shure tomoro.
Constructive criticizim is apreciated!
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jun 3, 2013 0:34:32 GMT -5
Tripper,
You probably need a LITTLE bit of back-pressure to get it to run just right. The stock header may be enough. If not, a longer extension might do it. I just replaced my own rotted 5-year-old exhaust on my 150 with a 1-inch inside-diameter header I made up, and a bone-yard expansion/contraction chamber "muffler" made for a 50cc. It's as "straight-through" as it gets, with NO baffles of any kind. Amazingly, it's SUPER-QUIET. My guess is that the large expansion-chamber bleeds off all the velocity of the exhaust gases, then this low-pressure gas goes through the "U-turn" pipe and into the teensy straight-through glass-pack mini-muffler. At any rate, it tunes easily, runs strong like a good straight-pipe and is very quiet... With these scooters (considering their sometimes "marginal" engineering) it pays to experiment! Nothing beats a well-tuned straight-pipe setup, but my neighbors seem to like mine... LOL... and it still runs like a bear!Leo (exhausted... LOL!) in Texas
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Post by skuttadawg on Jun 3, 2013 0:44:07 GMT -5
You have a 2T exhaust on a 150 4T ? How does it perform ? My aftermarket 2T pipe is easy 30 DBs louder than my stock pipe . Straight pipe you may be in noise violations of your state or county . A Uni with stock exhaust can bottle the flow as a Uni will have more flow and be louder than the stock airbox . Make sure you do a plug chop and for me I like to be a hair rich rather than on it or lean to be safe
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Sophomore Rider
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Use the force, if it breaks,it nedded to be fixed anyway!
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Joined: May 16, 2013 22:26:39 GMT -5
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Post by Tripper on Jun 3, 2013 15:49:07 GMT -5
Well, it performs better but still vrapp. I think it may need a bigger carb. I'm gona go up a jet first, but idk if that will slove the problem.
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Post by brandjur on Jun 3, 2013 17:10:40 GMT -5
I use # main jet with my NCY 47mm bbk and if memory serves me right, you have the Airsal 50mm kit. You need a bigger main jet than # . Also double check with your valves and cam timing alignment. How does your plug look?
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jun 3, 2013 22:47:11 GMT -5
You have a 2T exhaust on a 150 4T ? How does it perform ? My aftermarket 2T pipe is easy 30 DBs louder than my stock pipe . Straight pipe you may be in noise violations of your state or county . A Uni with stock exhaust can bottle the flow as a Uni will have more flow and be louder than the stock airbox . Make sure you do a plug chop and for me I like to be a hair rich rather than on it or lean to be safe I think this question was about my pictured exhaust...? If so, it runs GREAT! I think the expansion/contraction chamber with the little "muffler" was made for a 4-stroke 50cc GY6. It has no manufacturer I.D. or any identification on it, but the header-pipe with mounting flange which I removed is identical with other 50cc GY6 pipes I've seen. These (as well as similar setups) are often seen on 4-stroke engines with good results. The Vento "Phantom" has such a setup from the factory, though it's HEAVY chrome-plated steel (I have one sitting in my shed, and it's a beautiful "boat-anchor") while this one is feather-light stainless and aluminum. The light weight is why I used it, instead of the prettier chrome Vento unit. As for noise, it is INCREDIBLY quiet. At idle, it sounds like a stock muffler, but quieter. Sounds like a small air-compressor. At WOT it has just a little "bark" but not at all loud. No problem running a straight-pipe in Texas... Dealers sell both new and custom hogs with straight-pipes and megaphones... LOL! And they pass state inspection with no questions. Talk about LOUD!!! We're talking window-breaking, eardrum-busting hellfire-loud... HeHeHe. I can't explain just WHY this wide-open exhaust is SO quiet, except that the HUGE expansion-chamber must allow the exhaust to deplete in velocity before exiting the little straight-through glass-pack as a mere whisper. That big chamber also creates a low-pressure area, scavenging the exhaust which is why these work well on 4-strokes. Definitely NOT as well as they do on 2-strokes, where they actually pull more air-fuel mix in and ram it back, creating a supercharging effect... But still better than a traditional 4-stroke pipe and muffler. I'm NO aspiration expert, BUT I learned these little gems of knowledge WAY back in my racing go-kart days in the early 1960's. Expansion/contraction chamber technology was brand-new then. A properly designed setup would give us a 50% power increase on our McCulloch and West Bend kart motors... We're talking 35+hp at 20,000 rpm from a 10 C.I.D. 2-stroke!!! That's a similar size motor to our 150's that are doing great to put out 10hp. Once we figured out what made the systems tick, we tried them on 4-stroke engines and saw MODEST increases in power from the improved scavenging.I was already running a richer main jet with the UNI filter and stock muffler, and I will definitely keep an eye on the plug. After putting some miles on the clock, I'll post a test of overall performance. That will take a little time, I'm still wrenching on it. Only extended riding will tell if this a good setup, but right now, after some short runs, I'm betting it's a winner... Quiet as a mouse, and runs like a bear... LOL!I realize this reply isn't very technical, but I'm no mechanical wizard, just an aging old "trial-and-error" wrench-turning dinosaur, lost in the sixties... and it's the best I can do...Sincerely, Leo in Texas
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Post by Tripper on Jun 4, 2013 0:15:08 GMT -5
I use # main jet with my NCY 47mm bbk and if memory serves me right, you have the Airsal 50mm kit. You need a bigger main jet than # . Also double check with your valves and cam timing alignment. How does your plug look? Man... I checked and doubble checked the timeing. One tooth either way and the holes didn't line up, the timeing holes are lined up, but the top hole is about a milimeter back too far. That leads to an issue with the timeing mark on the fanwheel, the T mark drops about 5mm below the timeing mark. Almost aligning with the center line of the T. To me it seems equal...1mm back on the cam timeing, 5mm back on the fanwheel. But I am a TOTAL NOOB! Valves are set to .004 both. The vrapp issue seemed to get better when I up jetted, and more so when I lifted the needle. But the bike could just be trying to get into my head...jk 1. Can the timeing be adjusted by makeing the piston flush with the cylinder and then adjusting the fanwheel? Now that I said that out loud I don't think the fanwheel marks themselves magicly controll the timeing its the piston to cam. 2. I found some 1mm 1.2mm and 1.5mm bits, I'm going to drill out my #75 or whatever size jet and see if that fixes the problem. I'm not touching the # jet. Plug check tomoro...
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Post by prodigit on Jun 4, 2013 4:02:36 GMT -5
yeah, put a horn/trumpet as your exhaust pipe!
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Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Use the force, if it breaks,it nedded to be fixed anyway!
Posts: 124
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Joined: May 16, 2013 22:26:39 GMT -5
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Post by Tripper on Jun 4, 2013 7:00:39 GMT -5
Oh I put the muffler back on, too many dirty looks!
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Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Use the force, if it breaks,it nedded to be fixed anyway!
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Joined: May 16, 2013 22:26:39 GMT -5
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Post by Tripper on Jun 4, 2013 22:20:41 GMT -5
Plug is light brown. Witth black ring. Drilled out small jet to #100. Bogged out and vrapped all the way threw accelaration. Put old # jet back in, runs good, but same top end vrapp. I'm out of expendable cash till Fri after next so, ill have to deal with it for a couple weeks. Got my old head I'm going to replace the plug threads on, its a performance head, large ports. To keep me busy till then...
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