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Post by geh3333 on Jul 10, 2015 16:55:54 GMT -5
geh3333, I put in a new variator in, however I was wondering what else could be causing the belt to slip? I did put a 1500RPM clutch\torque spring last year which is much tighter than the stock one. For example I cannot press the clutch down by hand, so it is really grabbing onto the belt very very tight. In my head that make sense that it could cause slippage. Should I try a 1k RPM spring? what is your view on this? thank you - Luigi I need to go back and read , but , your belts are breaking right ? If so , I'd like to know how the plastic v-slide guides are holding up. You could have some bad tranny bearings, but many times the v-slides will keep breaking if bearings were bad. You could have and oily CVT causing the belt to slip and because overheated and break prematurely. I'm going to go back and read the thread to see if anything stands out. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 23:41:11 GMT -5
The problem with doing it the way you usually do is that , for the very first valve adjustment , you would have to do it at tdc. This way when you do it your way , everything will go smooth.
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 23:36:47 GMT -5
Can you post some pics with the scoot at tdc . pics of the valves and cam .
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 23:36:06 GMT -5
Also make sure the cam holes run parallel to the head . it just really sounds like a timing or valve issue to me.
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 23:30:39 GMT -5
Another thing to check is the oil pump. If the oil was really low , the oil pump could have burned up causing the scoot to overheat even more. It only takes seconds for the oil pump to go burn up . my scoot fell over when I hit the deer and the scoot ran for seconds with no oil , and it burned up. Luckily I had a temp gauge and noticed it right away. Oil pump is very easy to check. Take thavalve cover off . make sure the scoot has oil, and turn the scoot over . oil should flow to the cam and rockers if the oil pump is working.
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 23:26:53 GMT -5
I strongly suggest a temp gauge. If this was caused by running low on oil , your temps would have been raised. Let us know your results after your able to do the leak down test.
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How long
by: geh3333 - Jul 9, 2015 17:12:59 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 17:12:59 GMT -5
I have nearly 20,000 miles right now .
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 17:09:58 GMT -5
Get rid of the vacuum valve and use a manual shutoff .
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 17:08:33 GMT -5
thanks what's the break in period for a BBK? I'd go at least 500 miles. Some say longer some say you don't have to go that long, so 500 is a safe mileage. Change oil after the first run , try to make it about 20 miles. Change the oil every 100 miles up until 500 . From there you should be good to go. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 17:05:49 GMT -5
Yeh, if it's tight against the crossbar ,don't leave it that way. Remember the crossbar shifts with the suspension.
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 17:03:53 GMT -5
Yah i was wondering if that would work. Do you know what size the threads are?? The threads on the flywheel are the same as the threads on the engine case . U can use the same 5/16 bolts from even the cvt cover . You will want to use the flywheel nut to keep the puller from sliding off the shaft. Screw the flywheel nut onto the shaft threads so the stwheel puller shaft sets inside of the nut and against the flywheel shaft . This way the puller stays on the shaft. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 16:43:42 GMT -5
Hi All, just want to post an update. I replaced the rear tire which I went from 3.50 -10 to a 100/  10, which is about 1cm wider and 1mm taller. Man I am glad i did not go any more aggressive as it was a very tight fit, but worked perfect. My variator belt broke again so I figure while I was at it I would replaced the gears as well. I took my time and cleaned the whole transmission nicely and out in a brand new variator and weights and replaced the gears. I went from 13\40 to 16\38 (hoca) I got her all back together last night and I went for a very short drive as I want to make sure it does not break down on me or anything, but I was very very impressed with the results. She felt faster on acceleration and on my 1/2 mile test drive it hit 65 CMPH easily. I plan to do more extensive driving this week-end and I hope she can keep on being reliable. I did not change variator weights I will keep it on 12 grams and keep rpm lower. It was dark and could not see rpm, but she felt very fast, even at 50 CMPH, when I floored it I felt a nice pull. You should do a GPS run for us just to get the true mph. I'd be concerned that the belt keeps breaking. A gates belt should not break no where near 2k miles. Those black marks mean the belt is slipping and causing excessive heat. This is why the belts are breaking. You will Need to find the reason the belt is slipping. How do the three plastic v-side guides in the variatior look ? |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 16:36:11 GMT -5
Thank you, and i knew oil. Hah. And yah ive made a tool to get the starter clutch off already. Im ready for that. Just not for the flywheel. Thanks again! If you get the right kind of steering wheel puller , it will work . That's what I did. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 16:34:41 GMT -5
looks like around the starter (fresh o-ring) all the way down the back and underside of the main crank case separation line, and around a couple external screws near the drain plug. do these engines vibrate themselves loose? it only leaks after I turn it off, seems to hold it's oil fine until I kill it then it drips like crazy, yesterday I watched it lose a couple oz on the ground after a run It sounds to me that when your valve lash was set , the piston may not have been at tdc. If that was the case , this means the valves were not opening at the right time and when u ou messed with the cdi timing , everything got worse. You could have had massive crank case pressure causing the case gaskets to leak. I would also recheck your cam timing. All of this points to a timing / valve / firing issue. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 16:14:42 GMT -5
Meh, nvm I just got a uni type filter with a 45 degree bend. If it clears the crossbar I can just attach it directly to the carb right? No need for a velocity stack or PVC tube right? That is correct . If it fits it's good to go ! |
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10, which is about 1cm wider and 1mm taller. Man I am glad i did not go any more aggressive as it was a very tight fit, but worked perfect.
