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Post by geh3333 on Jul 9, 2015 16:13:05 GMT -5
I did this about 4 months or so ago . It was pretty easy. I only have to remove the fan cover , two bolts holding the swing arm to the side cover of the engine , I had to remover the two bolts holding the muffler to the swing arm. I tied the muffler up so I didn't hang. I was able to pull the side cover off after removing the flywheel and stator , along with the side cover bolts. It was pretty straight forward. I didn't have a starter clutch socket, so I had to secure a socket and wrench on the variatior nut , then grab the starter clutch nut with vise grips and attach a small breaker bar to the vise grips to break the nut free. I did the same to tighten it. But it was not a hard job.
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 8, 2015 18:46:38 GMT -5
something went wrong. oil is all over the ground underneath it. won't barely start at all now. when it does it idles bad. ugghhhhhh let us know where the oil is coming from . |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 7, 2015 3:30:54 GMT -5
geh3333 why are your roller weights so heavy? The K&S variator must have steeper angled ramps in the variator causing the need for heavier weights. With my koso I use to have , I was running 9 - 10 gram weights. The koso variator was much heavier also . i could never get the belt to climb fulley on the fave of the koso variators in owned , but after installing the K&S , I get 100% full belt climb. It just send like a much better quality variator all together. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 6, 2015 19:38:23 GMT -5
ok so I think I've solved it. I installed the 30mm pumper carb and let it warm up, one I dialed in the screws it seemed to want to restart. I'll test it when it's a bit cooler this evening and report back. That's what I like to see !! A 30mm carb. I'm a big fan of bigger carbs . it seems as if members are finally warming up the the idea. Over the past 2 years or so we have had many try the 28-30mm carb with great results. I have a 32mm pumper and my scoot is pretty darn fast . I hope it works out for you. This will be a first . someone's scoot not working until a 30mm is slapped in  . they usually run fine with out a bigger carb, just better with one . your scoot must be bored with the smaller carb, lol |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 6, 2015 19:31:22 GMT -5
To be honest , I think I have the fastest carbed 58.5 bbk'd scoot . I don't even know of anyone with a 61mm bbk that can reach these speeds. I have taller tires then usual and I'm the only one I know of who has a K&S variator. I also weigh around 215 lbs . before I even had the k&s variator I had one of my neighbors who weight about 145 lbs or so take the scoot on a run . he said he had it up to a little over 70 mph up a slight incline I usually only hit around 60-61 mph . man I need to loose some weight, lol.
Just to let you know , my speeds are GPS verified. I made a speed video before I was able to full tune the K&s variator. I hit 66 mph on straight runs and 76 down hill.
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 6, 2015 19:23:20 GMT -5
You need a small c clamp . you insert the stationary side into caliper and tighter the other side against the outside of it. I have a very small c clamp I use . its about 3-4 inches , not counting the part you tighten.
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 6, 2015 19:18:54 GMT -5
What exactly are looking for as a top speed ? You can easily reach 60+ with a 58.5 bbk and some carb and exhaust work . if you do some CVT , and head work , with a few other smaller mods , you should be able to reach 65+ on straight runs. It starts to get a little pricey when it comes to wanting a 150 style scoot to reach the 65+ range. Off the top of my head your lookin at around $700 bucks. Depending on the top end your looking at between 150 & $200 . with a big flow exhaust , carb , and unifilter your lookin at around $175+ . when it comes to the CVT you will need a high performance variator, and clutch assembly which will run you around $200 . then you have the final drive gears , a high performance cam , high performance cdi and coil which would run near $75. I probably missed something but that's pretty much it. And that's if you don't the work yourself. The gy6 engine is actually pretty cheap to modify compared to brand name engines . Your 59mm bbk will actually be a 58.5 . I have a 58.5 bbk with many mods and I'm at 69 mph on straight runs, about 76 mph down some medium longer hills. It takes a good variator to reach these speeds . I went with a k&s variator. The koso variators are junk , do not buy one. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 6, 2015 19:15:11 GMT -5
What exactly are looking for as a top speed ? You can easily reach 60+ with a 58.5 bbk and some carb and exhaust work . if you do some CVT , and head work , with a few other smaller mods , you should be able to reach 65+ on straight runs. It starts to get a little pricey when it comes to wanting a 150 style scoot to reach the 65+ range. Off the top of my head your lookin at around $700 bucks. Depending on the top end your looking at between 150 & $200 . with a big flow exhaust , carb , and unifilter your lookin at around $175+ . when it comes to the CVT you will need a high performance variator, and clutch assembly which will run you around $200 . then you have the final drive gears , a high performance cam , high performance cdi and coil which would run near $75. I probably missed something but that's pretty much it. And that's if you don't the work yourself. The gy6 engine is actually pretty cheap to modify compared to brand name engines .
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 5, 2015 20:39:08 GMT -5
I would drain all the oil from the scoot. Add the correct amount and see what happens. Usually you check the oil with the dipstick not screwed in , and it will read half way up the marks when full.
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 5, 2015 20:37:09 GMT -5
well amidst the abundance of fml one seemingly good thing happened, i found an old air filter which in comparison to the current is beyond half way decent and its dry! Yeah , the oil filled filter is shot . just toss it in the garbage. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 5, 2015 20:33:20 GMT -5
I actually put the old pad over the caliper and compressed it with a clamp. I don't understand how you cannot get the clamp on ? You removed the assembly from the shocks right ?
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 3, 2015 18:31:12 GMT -5
The noise persists whether I'm at idle or revving, but as the revs increase the noise becomes faster. No wobble in my crankshaft that I can discern. Unfortunately my impact is too weak to get the variator off for me to inspect. So while I wait for a better one or find a tool to remove it with, does anyone have any suggestions as to what this hellish noise could be? I'm hoping it's just a loose roller guide or worn roller (these are the stock variator and rollers after all and I'm at 6000km). I've had the cover off and nothing looks out of the ordinary. Scooter rides just fine, no problems in that department...but I am terrified it may just blow up or seize the rear wheel on me. It sounds loudest by the variator, but when I used the old screwdriver to the ear trick it sounded like it was coming from inside the starter motor. Does this make any sense? I'm so frustrated with this. Help!!  First , your idle sounds as if it is not steady . I'd say its not the variator. It sounds more internal . |
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Break piston
by: geh3333 - Jul 3, 2015 18:27:32 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by geh3333 on Jul 3, 2015 18:27:32 GMT -5
Hi
I took my break pads off my bike and my pistons are sticking out and can't fit new pads in my break has loads of air in the hydrolics and I'm bleeding that tomorrow but why won't the piston reset?? You need to use a clamp to compress the cylinder. That's what you do with cars also. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 3, 2015 18:20:05 GMT -5
Backfiring on decel has nothing to do with your clutch, but is a symptom of a lean operating condition. Check for vacuum leak in the hose that attaches to the right side of your carb. The valve it connects to is there to prevent backfiring during deceleration. Also check exhaust system near the head for loose connection, or missing gasket. A leak there will also cause this. Actually you are correct , but a sudden down shift will also Enhance the lean condition. A sudden down shift will raise the rpms , so if he is running lean on decel this will enhance the popping. This is the thing. Running lean on decel , means you are not getting enough fuel on decel. As the rpms drop the popping slows or lessens. If you have a stiff main spring. The rpms do not drop as quick. They really don't rise , but they stay up longer causing more popping. So when it comes down to it. You need to fix the lean issue to get rid of the popping completely, but yes a stiffer main spring can enhance the popping. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 2, 2015 21:00:11 GMT -5
Anything you can add for 10% ethanol which helps burn better is a plus, all my lawnmowers and anything that i have with carburetors including my 300 cc Zodiac trike. Remember 91 octane or better. I run  never a problem with it. I agree 100% . also run some star tron star brite in the tank. |
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never a problem with it.