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"ScootTuner" created a thread -> link below.

In it he stated one of his mods was "2002 Ford Crown Vic ignition coil" in place of the OEM coil and plug wire.
The first picture in his thread shows the Coil on pack on the sparkplug.

Qmb Rat Project

Basically, a "coil on pack" on the spark plug.
I asked a question in thread about doing this and sent him a PM.
He has not logged on since Jun 28, 2014 at 5:56pm. ( 3 months as of today )

Does anyone know any particulars to install one of these on the gy6150.
Wiring particulars, other necessary mods / parts swaps, etc

Thanks for any specific info.

Seen this type of device on the internet often.
But how to make one ?

Zaptester Electronic Spark Plug Tester

Saw a blog on DIY for one here but lacking in instructions:

How to build a bench top Spark Plug tester

I have a spare CDI & Ignion coil / cable. Wondering if they can be used to make one.

Anyone know how - or - know a link to full instructions on how to make one fairly cheap?

Would be great for proper / better plug gapping & side gapping checking.

-------> alleyoop "Also it is hard to believe that a 117.5 is to rich when you say a 115 is to lean. I think your splitting hairs and are not tuning the carb right.
Alleyoop"

Well, you may be right. My setup is still being tweaked from carb to exhaust.
The 150cc cylinder is stock - the head is big port on intake / exhaust (stock size valves I believe - stainless steel) and the muffler mod I did was a set of 6 custom gaskets between muffler and header pipe connection with a 1-1/4" cut in gasket to vent the extra fumes.

I also changed the carb needle with one from a 125/150 carb rebuild kit that has an adjustable needle.

I have tried all settings on the needle using the 117.5 main jet and leanest setting on the needle still causes hesitation spots while cruising 1/2 throttle (40 mph).

The hesitation occurs in sputters after maintaining 1/2 throttle and speed for 20 - 30 seconds.

If I throttle back a 1/4 it simply winds down (no speeding up / no hesitation).

Seems like the gasket material was rated at 800 - 1200 degrees. So I am not too worried about the material failing due to heat but I plan on keeping tabs on the way it wears. + the space shuttle fuel supply is different then regular gas... But thanks for voicing the concern too me.

I also have cylinder head temperature gauge that is installed between the spark plug and the head

As far as a "fire hazard" ? I do not understand how having the exhaust venting towards the ground would start a fire / be a fire hazard - any explanation how it would be a fire hazard would be appreciated.

**** Alleyoop mentioned air being sucked back in - that was the negative effect I seem to have heard somewhere in the past concerning the hole in the muffler gasket between the header pipe and muffler. With the new cylinder head with bigger intake / exhaust ports I was told I needed to vent the exhaust better. Although I am still using stock 24mm carb "PD24J - Keihin style". Re-jetting / tuning is in the process along with a new carb needle that has the movable clip for finer tuning.

Rather than pay for expensive and much louder performance / gutted free flow muffler I thought this modification in the gasket area between the header pipe and muffler may be ok ?
Because a cylinder head with bigger intake and exhaust ports would require the additional venting of spent fuel.
Aside from louder, I don't know what the performance pros and cons would be by having exhaust venting in two locations on the same line (push and pull effect).

1 Minute video of the idea here :

MUFFLER MOD FOR VENTING EXHAUST BETTER

You have a beautiful daughter and she has great dad. Best wishes for your daughter and whole family.

No, when I bought the bike new and they shipped it to me. The valve lash was incorrect / closed / no gap and burned the vale up.