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Post by gy6fandan on Jun 5, 2014 17:44:52 GMT -5
I marked the CVT face with ink to check the rise of the belt and it was a 1/4 below. I just put on a new 1.) variator (115mm Motorio) 2.) stock clutch and ran the ink test --- failed. 3.) final gear gear change 15/36. 4.) 842 gates bando belt HOWEVER - The MAIN question is : How do I determine / measure how *** " LOW " ***the belt goes down the face of the CLUTCH ??
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Post by gy6fandan on Jun 3, 2014 10:27:03 GMT -5
Just read your reply from yesterday, YOUR STATEMET : "thought it was a spark plug issue i found it to be very dirty so i cleaned it. tried it and didnt spark so i just ran out and got a new one but i got the same result no spark." So.... No spark, No fire. When you check it for spark did you do it like this / with the ground ?? (see video in this link) : This guy has great vids - his you tube home page is below and applies to 50cc - 150cc (Even though he uses the 50cc in most of his videos) : Link ---> www.youtube.com/channel/UCUxvvD_DC7kkG4OiS2S_B7gAlthough forums like this one offer more interaction / idea swaps / ect - which gets you to the videos posted above -- so don't drop your login / password & share what you learn. Another pertinent vid by another guy for electrical diaganostic is here : These should help you eliminate some other issues since the spark is new - and properly tested & gaped. Hope this helps - I will re-check thread tonight / tomorrow morning.
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Post by gy6fandan on Jun 2, 2014 8:59:59 GMT -5
Hello,
If you have access to starter fluid - squirt a bit down the carb throat. --> if it starts and then dies you have a fuel problem.
If its a fuel problem diagnose as follows :
1.) is fuel in the tank - if no - add gas .....if yes go to 2. 2.) is fuel making it to the fuel pump - unplug fuel pump (side going to carb) - - attach a spare hose to the fuel pump and run the hose from the fuel pump to a jar or can - press starter button and hold for 10 - 15 seconds to see if fuel is pumping gas. - if no then check fuel filter between tank and pump ..... if yes, reattach original fuel line to fuel pump and go to 3. 3.) TURN "OFF" the run button so it will not start. Then "hold throttle full open" and hold the starter button for 5 - 15 seconds. Smell around the carb for strong gas odors - if no fuel is smelled then its a carb problem.
this is a basic fuel supply check.
The fuel pump is vacuum operated - check for vacuum hose leaks - all vacuum hoses - EVEN THOSE THAT DONT GO TO THE FUEL PUMP.
This is a good place to start since it was running.
Combustion / explosion in the engine chamber needs three things --- Air (breather / filter), fuel (gas), fire (spark plug)
report your findings and maybe I or others can offer the next steps depending on your results..
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Post by gy6fandan on Jun 2, 2014 8:17:39 GMT -5
I would like to get "Honda" O.E.M. rear drum brake shoes that will fit my gy6-150 long (157qmj) and has 13" tires. Anyone know "what honda scooter(s) year / model / part number, etc ) would have the rear drum shoe match Reason- because there are more brake shoe options from other manufacturers concering brake materials / designs such as ceramic. Just dont know what year / model / part number, etc. to use for the search. Thanks up front for any help.
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Post by gy6fandan on May 14, 2014 18:35:36 GMT -5
Well, the brake lining has been chiseled off and the remaing material sanded off (wet sanding on the last little bit). Wore a disposable "chemical" face mask - covers face and nose. Should be O.K. for keeping out larger contaminants since it is design for chemicals / vapors.
Tomorrow - I will glue the new ( NON - Asbestos) material on. I am guessing that because of the sanding down of any existing material and glue that the brakes can only be relined 2 times and maybe three at the most.
One this is for sure. From here on out I will just take my brakes and clutch to a shop and have them do it - I am sure they also will only be able to reline them 2 or 3 times tops also. Only thing is, I don't know if they will let me pick / supply the material I want... Main thing is NON - Asbestos.
Anyway, When I get the brakes finished and test I will re-post how it works.
******* Thanks to everyone with their advice.
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Post by gy6fandan on May 13, 2014 22:12:35 GMT -5
Hello, I figured since there are businesses that reline brakes and clutches (glue and rivet both - I believe) that I might give it a try. The item I chose for the lining is ( HIGH STRENGTH - because its bendable / flexable - for the clutch and rear drum brakes) at : www.mcmaster.com/#brake-lining/=ryeglpThe company is : McMaster-carr -- web home page is: www.mcmaster.com/#They sell the glue too but I cant remember what glue I went with at this moment...but they have it. REMEMBER --- THIS IS SOMETHING I AM ATTEMPTING. I spoke with a local brake and clutch rebuilding shop and they reline brakes and clutches PROFESSIONALLY. This is my first attempt.
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Fuel Octane
by: gy6fandan - May 12, 2014 22:13:18 GMT -5
Post by gy6fandan on May 12, 2014 22:13:18 GMT -5
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Post by gy6fandan on May 12, 2014 21:57:04 GMT -5
Hello and thanks.
If I get a bolt that's a hair bigger would I nee to tap the hole - just don't want to crack anything.
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Post by gy6fandan on May 12, 2014 21:38:57 GMT -5
Hello, I striped the top right (when looking at the front of the engine) bolt that holds the valve / cam cover on.
I was adjusting my valves and when I put the cover back on I could tell right away the bolt was striped.
ANYONE know the thread specs (bolt size) on these 4 bolts. -- I was thinking if I knew the thread specs I could get a bolt the next size up and just tap the one hole.
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Post by gy6fandan on May 12, 2014 9:33:01 GMT -5
Thanks -----> tech4 and JerryScript .
I will use both your ideas.
I will post any pros and cons when I finish this project.
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Post by gy6fandan on May 11, 2014 16:47:22 GMT -5
Thanks. The existing material on the clutch and brakes is about an 1/8' +. Any suggestions on the way to get it off - sanding, scrapers, chemical, bench grinder, etc
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Post by gy6fandan on May 11, 2014 15:19:58 GMT -5
Hello, I bought some brake / clutch lining material for my gy6150 scoot. The process is glue & bake. CURIOUS... if anyone: 1.) Knows if the "drum brake" / "clutch lining" material that comes with our scoots has "ASBESTOS" in it ? 2.) If "ASBESTOS" is in the brake and clutch lining........does anyone know a safe way to remove the brake & clutch lining material. I would really like to try this "high temp - higher performance" drum brake & clutch material for performance and lasting capabilities. The "ASBESTOS" possibility and material removal is the hurdle at this time. Thanks up front for any help / info on this.
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Post by gy6fandan on Jun 3, 2013 23:36:03 GMT -5
geh3333 and prodigit thanks for the info on this - it helps.Will check back tomorrow and thanks again.
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Post by gy6fandan on Jun 3, 2013 15:13:49 GMT -5
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Post by gy6fandan on Jun 3, 2013 15:12:39 GMT -5
Thanks for the replys jeffery5568 and millsc - . I will check the thread this evening and see if anyone else replys.
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