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Post by gy6girl on May 24, 2013 1:38:48 GMT -5
Oh.. I see. It works like all pumps work. It has something that sucks the liquid in, then pushes it out the other side. Be it a diaphragm, piston, or fan. Got it.
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squeaks
by: gy6girl - May 23, 2013 11:55:53 GMT -5
Post by gy6girl on May 23, 2013 11:55:53 GMT -5
No.. center stand is not what's squeaking.
I have even searched with a mechanics stethoscope and still can't find it.
But I guess more would help...
The squeak sounds like it's coming from the muffler/stator area.
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squeaks
by: gy6girl - May 22, 2013 19:41:03 GMT -5
Post by gy6girl on May 22, 2013 19:41:03 GMT -5
Ok..There is this squeak on my scooter. It sounds like metal rubbing against metal. It sounds like something in need of oil.
I looked all around trying find this squeak.
Here is the weird thing... It changes pitch when revving the engine, so one would think it was in the engine. So I looked and looked and nothing. The engine runs great and there is no problems. Plenty of oil and it's flowing.
But that's not even the weird thing.. The squeak is not even in the engine. Leave the scooter off and just shake the scooter and it squeaks. You can even change the pitch by how fast you shake. It's some where in the frame and it's not even in the suspension. It's in the frame and the vibration of the engine is making this part squeak.
But I can't find it.
Any ideas?
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Re: Natzi
by: gy6girl - May 22, 2013 19:27:35 GMT -5
Post by gy6girl on May 22, 2013 19:27:35 GMT -5
Ha!... umm.. yeah.. I knew that. That's what I said.. it was German. My example was to show the letters we know in English make different sounds in the German language. Do you see that now? Thanks. Have a nice day.
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Re: Natzi
by: gy6girl - May 22, 2013 16:04:24 GMT -5
Post by gy6girl on May 22, 2013 16:04:24 GMT -5
Could never figure out why it was always pronounced as if there was a "T" in it when it's "Naah-Zee" Eh.. It's German, it doesn't make any sense. How is this pronounced... (Doy-ch land) Deutschland?
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Post by gy6girl on May 22, 2013 0:21:29 GMT -5
If Missouri anything like Texas, the money is all in the title.
A used working chinese scooter without a title is worth $200 at the most, in Texas. I don't pay over $150 for a scooter without a title, and that has to be one I really want. In Texas it will cost you at least $200 to get a title for it. Some states wont even let you get a title.
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Post by gy6girl on May 21, 2013 20:11:37 GMT -5
We're also talking about Chinese scooters here.
It could just be a mistake by the person who put it together and didn't care and just left it.
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Post by gy6girl on May 21, 2013 15:24:57 GMT -5
I wouldn't spray anything on the variator or anything. The transmission should remain dry.
Making things wet causes all those particles to stick to it, and that will make things worse.
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Post by gy6girl on May 19, 2013 22:00:41 GMT -5
You're going to have to give more detail.
What does bog down mean? Does that mean it ran for awhile struggling to run and then on it's last breath it finally clunked out? Or does that just mean you took off and it was running and then it just stopped working?
Also.. What does it do when you try to start it? Is the starter motor turning?
Have you checked the spark?
Have you adjusted the valves?
People will help if you give more details.
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Post by gy6girl on May 19, 2013 18:59:13 GMT -5
I bought a used scooter once that the signals didn't work. I messed around with them and couldn't find anything wrong with the wiring. I even took off the relay and hard wired them and I was able to get them to come on, so it had to be the relay. Since I was getting a new one any way, I popped the broken one open. All it is, is a transistor and capacitor, charge and discharge circuit. I recognized the circuit easily. It's how you make lights blink. Yet as I study it, I realize that it could have never have worked. The ground was not even connected to anything. I pulled out the multimeter and tested it. Nope. The ground was not connected to the circuit. So that means the person I bought this scooter from never had working signals. It was a fault out of the factory. Why would they not fix it? That's what made me retest it, but there is no way those signals worked ever with that relay.
Any way, the moral of the story is that I bought a new one and everything worked perfect, and that brand new ones straight from the factory floor can be faulty.
They just slap them together.
I know basic electronics. I can make a transistor/capacitor circuit. I thought about making a cool one that can maybe do patterns or something and selling them. We'll see.
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Post by gy6girl on May 19, 2013 16:50:14 GMT -5
It looks like an old film canister with wires coming out of it. Usually under the front section where the horn is.
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Post by gy6girl on May 19, 2013 15:50:33 GMT -5
I agree.. It does seem weird. This last time I did them, I adjusted dead cold, but I see where you are coming from. If the engine is warm, all the metal will have expanded to it's natural state when warm. Warm is the state that the engine will be in when it is running. So Why would you not adjust the valves in the state that they are going to be in when running? Beats the out of me. Maybe it's all BS.
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Post by gy6girl on May 19, 2013 11:28:48 GMT -5
Ok.. Here is an update that some might find interesting.
I redid the valves, and it still wasn't right.
I did them twice, once caused clicking and the other time the gurgle came back. Each time I went to redo them, they were not the way I set them.
Now I will admit that I advanced the engine just by popping the ignition without the spark turned on. I just moved the cam levers away from the rockers and then gapped the valves. That's not the best way to do it, but is sufficient. Only something was wrong. They were not the same when I set them. Maybe bad setting, maybe just heat manipulation.
So I decided I am going to do this one more time, this time I am going to do it right or at least better. I pulled of the transmission cover and rotated the variator until the engine was in the compression cycle. At that point, both valves should most definitely be closed. So I gapped them right there. I set the intake at 0.003 and I set the exhaust at 0.004 clearance.
I also noticed something wrong with the variator, but that's a different story.
I put everything back together, and it ran beautifully. No knock, no gurgle, no clicking.
So I took it for a ride and I hit speeds that I rarely hit. The speedometer isn't accurate, but it was pushing 70mph I know. When I got it that high, and it was still climbing, it started to hesitate at points. Like an engine cycle went around without being ignited. I think it started running lean at that speed. It's a 150cc, and right now I have a 110 main jet in there, and a free flow air filter. I have a 112 that I think I am going to throw in there and see what happens.
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Post by gy6girl on May 17, 2013 17:29:13 GMT -5
Are you talking about the needle on the diaphragm or the needle on the idle adjustment screw?
If the adjustment screw... turning it counterclockwise, gives the idle more gas.
The needle on the diaphragm, if you move it up, more gas is allowed through the jet... when you throttle.
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Post by gy6girl on May 15, 2013 1:13:23 GMT -5
Yeah... That's pretty much what I was thinking too.
I am going to play with them again tomorrow. I think it's the intake that is clicking, I think I will drop it down to .003. The extra acceleration I got was lost after the engine warmed up, that's another reason I want to try to tighten it up a tad.
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