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Post by CopperDeer on Jul 3, 2013 23:33:01 GMT -5
It's a delicate balance getting the right amount of airflow for your carb's jetting. I've had good success drilling a few small holes to get the increased air I need, but it can be a pain if you get drill happy and have to figure out how to cover up some of the holes...
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Scooter-van
by: CopperDeer - Jul 3, 2013 23:26:48 GMT -5
Post by CopperDeer on Jul 3, 2013 23:26:48 GMT -5
I actually preferred a Ford Winstar that I took my Derbi home in than the pain it would have been loading it up into my Jeep, the deck height is so low I loaded that bad boy without any help. Don't think it would comfortably fit anything bigger than a 150, although my scooter fit sideways between the two sliding doors with the backseat still in!! Minivans get great fuel economy and are very practical whether you're hauling stuff or people.
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Post by CopperDeer on Jul 3, 2013 13:47:28 GMT -5
Precisely That is most of the difference but I still feel the lower / "straighter" angle plays a factor too. But that makes perfect sense, I was just thinking to myself when I was adjusting the lamp angle... this feels more like a lamp assembly off a car than a bike.
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Post by CopperDeer on Jul 3, 2013 0:26:16 GMT -5
Good point, my Derbi surprisingly has far easier headlight access than my Tao Tao. I can change the bulb or adjust headlight angle in a matter of seconds by just reaching under the front fairing as opposed to a (short) sequence of removing a few fasteners / panels on the fragile Tao Tao.
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Post by CopperDeer on Jul 2, 2013 17:37:00 GMT -5
Having both styles parked in my garage, I strongly prefer the low & fixed mounted position of the headlight on my Derbi to the handlebar mounted Tao Tao for a few reasons. The lower mounting (with a properly adjusted headlight angle) provides a more consistent and longer beam than the higher mounted one. Then again, I guess the Tao Tao isn't built to do more than 35-40 mph so it wasn't designed to illuminate that far down the road. Also, as for the light following your path, I kinda disagree. At very low speeds, sure, but above 20-25 mph counter-steering takes over and it will actually point the headlight slightly AWAY from the inside of a curve.
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Post by CopperDeer on Jun 29, 2013 23:32:06 GMT -5
Not much of a conversation but I feel you on the DWI limited driving privilege, exception being that in NC that applies to my car, not my 50cc scooter Not so much enjoying the steamy and muggy soup that is the Southeast US during June/July, but then again, it's still well over 100*F in the Southwest/desert, so can't complain since we were at 105*F high here in Raleigh this date last year.
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Post by CopperDeer on Jun 28, 2013 13:29:29 GMT -5
yeah I have the equivalent of 2.5 base gaskets on my 50mm... haven't done a compression test yet but it's probably just under 200. Hopefully since I only use octane fuel that will be good enough for a few thousand miles. It's an older crank/case so if it goes, oh well, just transplant the BBK to a new one ;D
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Post by CopperDeer on Jun 28, 2013 13:05:23 GMT -5
As long as the two smaller holes line up perfectly parallel to the top of the cylinder head anytime "T" is lined up on the case, you've set timing correctly. It doesn't matter if the crank is on the top of the compression or exhaust stroke... same thing ;D I would agree that a cracked intake spacer could be the culprit. I would try the stock intake box again just to make sure you aren't throwing crazy amounts of air in there and stalling it out. is a tad high for a secret 63 but I did run that on mine with a modified intake box and exhaust.
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Post by CopperDeer on Jun 28, 2013 12:48:56 GMT -5
No no you're right, the jetting that gives you an idea A/F mixture will yield the best performance, all I was saying is if you can find a way to induce more air, then you can achieve better performance with a higher jet. So with the stock intake box, you would need to go lower than a , but if you build a custom intake you might be able to get ideal A/F with the . Depends on your exhaust too though.
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Post by CopperDeer on Jun 28, 2013 11:12:55 GMT -5
I've done a couple 100-130 mile days with a 50cc. The first on a mostly stock "secret 63cc" Chinese scoot and then more recently going harder and longer on my Derbi liquid cooled 2 stroke. With the air cooled Chinese scoot, since I was going WOT pretty much 97% of the way, I did take an extra break or two than I normally would have just to be on the safe side. You'd be surprised how tough these things are. Sounds like you've done some planning and have all the supplies necessary ready to go. I wouldn't sweat it one bit on a 150cc, and I'd say as long as you aren't going quite WOT all the time feel free to bump that cruising speed up a little bit (I averaged 35mph on the day on my 50's, meaning cruising in the low 40's with stints close to 50 mph).
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Post by CopperDeer on Jun 28, 2013 11:07:36 GMT -5
Interesting, good points. I guess once you get past 10-15 MPH it's just a matter of spacing the gears out a little more. I think you said you liked starting out in 2nd with the stock sprocket anyways? Sounds like at least with the 34T you realized some performance gain in addition to fuel savings. And like you mentioned, top speed wouldn't necessarily be affected since 3rd would be a similar ratio with the 31T as 4th is stock. I'm certainly not one to complain about having an "ultra-overdrive" gear I'll be keeping up with the developments for sure.
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Post by CopperDeer on Jun 27, 2013 23:08:25 GMT -5
I run a MJ with my 50mm BBK, runs a tad rich but overall is very good. It's all about balancing it with the amount of air your engine is sucking in through it's intake system, the stock intake is too restrictive for a 50mm with that rich of a jet. I have a custom intake built with rubber hose, like from a car radiator, connected to the original intake snorkel (with the restrictor with 4 holes in it) and it works great. One of these days I'm going to experiment with drilling out one of the holes to get just the perfect amount of air. If you don't want to do all that, you can just run a smaller MJ with just a tad less performance (but better MPG).
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Post by CopperDeer on Jun 27, 2013 22:11:05 GMT -5
DX
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Post by CopperDeer on Jun 27, 2013 21:58:31 GMT -5
31T sounds a bit dramatic then, if you had more gears I'd say go for it, but with a 4-spd I'd prolly stick with the 34T. I would agree that there's a fine line between tweaking the performance/efficiency and compromising the design and bogging it too much with crazy gearing. I don't know that it would cause damage though, I agree with prodigit that high RPM low load/throttle is worse than low RPM high load/throttle within reason.
A really legit mechanic once told me you get the greatest overall efficiency going hard at low-mid RPM's (within reason) for a few reasons, other than obviously less revs = less combustion, having the throttle open reduces pumping and frictional losses over partial throttle. I shift my cars like a mad man to keep the RPM's under 2k, no problems in a quarter million lifetime miles yet. On a forum for an older Honda Civic Hybrid 5-spd I used to own just about everybody found their best MPG with a "1-2-5" shift pattern, go nearly WOT from a stop through 1st and 2nd to your cruising speed then quickly ease off into 5th.
You really should upjet your carb if it is really that lean, though. I could understand a little choke getting it to haul balls but idk hard to tell, yours sounds kinda severe.
One question I did have for you, prodigit, is how does the parts market for this engine / bike look? For me that's more important than reliability, everything will break eventually, having my Derbi has shown me how much a pain having a rare machine can be for sourcing parts.
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Post by CopperDeer on Jun 27, 2013 21:27:00 GMT -5
Duddddeeee that scooter is sweet!!! 2T all the way!!! Sounds like a real beast. So basically you got to ride a practically new 2T for 2 years for free and got the Aldy for $300??
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