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Post by doublert on May 4, 2014 8:59:49 GMT -5
going to try cleaning the carb after church, should the valves be set different than .004?
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Post by doublert on May 4, 2014 8:51:40 GMT -5
Recheck your valves , if it was a jeting problem it would never started . John valves have been checked probably 4 times during the whole build, NCY take out, Taida install, last night when troubleshooting. |
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Post by doublert on May 4, 2014 7:00:35 GMT -5
What carb size is on there and what PILOT JET size did you put in? Most folks over jet their carbs thinking lots of fuel is going to make it run like a rape aped, but that is not how it works. Alleyoop Its whatever pilot jet comes in the 26mm carb most of us folks get on ebay, its like a $28-35 cheap carb thats adjustable. last year we put a 112.5 main jet in it. |
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Post by doublert on May 3, 2014 23:36:13 GMT -5
Got the Taida 61mm BBK and 3mm crank all installed, started up fine and went down the road, came back and it cut off in driveway. Been struggling all afternoon trying to get it to start right, IDK...Thinking about pushing it off a mountain, and just driving my car. My brother has adjusted the fuel air, the sparkplug shows that its running rich. The valves are set right, already checked them over twice. Takes about 3-5 times cranking, then it will finally start after you keep twisting on the throttle, just about had enough of this. Could it be the auto choke? My brother says the auto choke enricher is hot, about as hot as the valve cover. This doesn't sound normal to me?
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Post by doublert on May 3, 2014 16:44:38 GMT -5
Got it started, my brother took it down the road, and it was running fine, then it cut off in the driveway. Tried to start it but it wouldnt. pushed it back up in building, and tried and tried to get it to start, but no go. It has spark, and getting fuel my brother says, he also said it was really rich too. Both valves are set to .004. We are thinking maybe they should be set differently? Anyone else have an idea?
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Post by doublert on May 3, 2014 13:02:24 GMT -5
Well I believe it comes with the kit, or it should. I believe I might have seen that it comes with the 8.2 crankshaft. |
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Post by doublert on May 3, 2014 10:13:00 GMT -5
Ok, so i've been on here talking about BBK's and stroker crank install, and so on and so on.....I replaced my NCY BBK with the Taida kit, and it slid right in with no boring of the case. Also I would like to add that when installing the 3mm crank, apparently we did not have to grind down the oil pump housing part on the inside of the case. I was told by Millsc that everyone doing 3mm or larger cranks has had to do the grinding of the case, I guess we got lucky while putting it together, everything spins smooth and freely. Finishing it up today, the cam chain is tight, so we let it sit for a few days. I will keep everyone posted with the results. Also, I'm thinking about buying the Taida 232 BBK kit from scooterelements later this summer, kind of as a backup engine and a small project.
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Post by doublert on May 2, 2014 23:17:07 GMT -5
I'm taking the Ncy bbk out cause the piston and cylinder walls were scuffed, and I'm putting back in a Taida kit. Now the Wrist pin will not come loose from the rod so I can take the piston off and reinstall the Taida kit. It is supposed to slide out, but it isnt. What do I do now? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I just applied some heat to it, and it slid right out! Guess I'll put the new Taida kit in now.
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Post by doublert on Apr 30, 2014 22:41:50 GMT -5
So, I'm changing my front plastc nose piece from the Handsome boy style, to a more sporty style, and the new nose plastic takes H4 headlight bulbs. My local Adavance has the 3 prong H4 bulbs but they are 12v/55watt. Can I use these? I'm also putting in an 1157 LED tail light bulb, to be more efficient. What would be the best wattage of H4 bulbs to use?
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Post by doublert on Apr 30, 2014 19:14:45 GMT -5
Really? No one on here has tried NCY forks on their scoot? Huh. That surprises me a little. I don't know how all of you are putting up with the terrible stock ones. I decided to take a chance today and ordered a set. Should be interesting to see how they feel. I'll take a look at them and see what there all about. |
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Post by doublert on Apr 30, 2014 16:20:13 GMT -5
My NCY piston and cylinder walls were scuffed from where the wrist pin wore out, so taking the NCY out and replacing it with the Taida 61BBk, it apparently has already shipped out from scooter elements, so I'll keep everyone informed how its coming along.
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Post by doublert on Apr 29, 2014 20:13:44 GMT -5
Piston hitting the head? I ran a matching combustion chambered head the ncy is 58.5. Should we put the gaskets on the spacer? |
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Post by doublert on Apr 29, 2014 19:56:09 GMT -5
So, we just figured out that my piston was hitting the head? Can I double up on the head gaskets for a fix?
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Post by doublert on Apr 29, 2014 19:53:49 GMT -5
Millsc, you were right! The piston was hitting the head! Can we double up on the head gaskets? We did not use the gaskets on the spacer. Quick replys back would be great! This is my only Transportation.
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Post by doublert on Apr 29, 2014 19:42:00 GMT -5
Piston hitting the head? I ran a matching combustion chambered head the ncy is 58.5. my guy is checking it now, everything was TDC, didnt use gaskets with the spacer. Him and my brother are going over it now as we speak..... |
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