|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 7, 2015 20:01:08 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 7, 2015 19:43:09 GMT -5
Yep, the way it spools up and down like there wasn't any kind of a load to contend with, spins the cvt and rear wheel like they weren't even there, that puppy has some power.
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 6, 2015 23:28:04 GMT -5
Yep if you have a CDI that is already fixed with advanced timing you may run into starting problems. In that case get the Advancing Cdi that comes on around 3000k and is retarded for low rpms(WIN WIN), easy on starts and no kickbacks from the clutch slipping causing unburned fuel to be in the exhaust which will then ignite and pop .  |
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 6, 2015 23:06:01 GMT -5
It should not POP which means your Fuel Mixture is not right. The motors are picky when starting if something is off, a well tuned carb and good motor should start in the 1st or 2nd SHORT hit of the start button with no side music going on.  |
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 6, 2015 22:26:24 GMT -5
The enricher only is feeding fuel when you first start it cold, and only for about 3-5 minutes the most and within those minutes it is extending and allowing less extra fuel until it fully extends out and completly shuts off the extra fuel. But while it is doing this the rpms are dropping down to where you have it set. My clutch pads are just peachy keeny I have a NCY clutch which the pads have about 1 inch more material on each arm for less slipping and they do a really good job of grabbing and no slippage so less glazing. Glazing come by when you are very easy on the throttle starting off like creeping around 5mph or less.
Alleyoop
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 6, 2015 22:05:06 GMT -5
That is where you are off a little off, the Stock Contra spring is 600-700, and I have converted my Enricher to a Manual, in summer the motors do not need extra fuel so no extra fuel is needed so with a manual you can shut off the extra fuel. Only time you really need the extra fuel is in cold weather for cold starts and only for about 5 minutes. Alleyoop   |
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 6, 2015 21:36:02 GMT -5
Im thinking a stock contra spring is all we should need to run on these ya know....why make it harder with a stiffer spring,,heck if you had big power a weak contra spring would be bad to the bone!! You got it BRO, I tried a 1000 and needed 3500 rpms before my trike would even move so I put the OEM spring back and it moves now at 2300 rpms as before. |
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 6, 2015 21:14:09 GMT -5
The only spring that will hold the rpms back is the CONTRA spring putting pressure on he belt trying to keep it up high on the clutch pulley. Now your Variator is trying to FORCE the clutch pulley apart so that the belt drops down to turn your rear wheel faster . So as you can see the Belt in the Variator is trying to climb up and at the same time forcing the clutch pulley apart so the belt drops down. So the harder it is to OPEN the clutch pulley the more power you need to turn the variator to force the clutch pulley to open. I don't know if you changed the Contra Spring(the one next to the clutch). The CLUTCH arm springs those are controlled by centrifugal force, so if you put in say 1000 rated springs your rpms will need to be around 3000+ before they get thrown out and grab the bell which in turn turns your wheel, But those springs do not effect the loss or gain of rpms.
Hope that helps clarify the springs.
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 6, 2015 19:50:36 GMT -5
Did I miss where he mentioned the switch from a 30mm to a 28mm carb ? Or did u just make it up ? Either way I like anything from 28 to 32mm they can all work on these setups . at least u see the bigger carb is better. You missed it, I don't make up stuff and or make excuses I tell it like it is. |
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 6, 2015 18:33:44 GMT -5
Like I said you two get together and figure out the million dollar question, I told you guys why ages ago we just keep on going round and round. The one I feel sorry for is RC, you are the one that talked him into it when I said differently. Now he also is questioning why he also needs 9gram weights on a 150cc motor to gain some rpms when only you two out of thousands need to.
Please don't tell him its his Variator if anything 99 percent of all performance variator will give you more rpms and bottom end but lack top end capability. Now Don't forget I heard your motor on that downhill run and it was not putting out like it should and I told you so, even when you were at the stop light.
And don't start with your colors are showing crapola and saying I make you feel stupid. After trying to tell you guys nicely and then getting on my case because I do not agree, Maybe a little put down will open up your eyes, but from what I have seen and heard I would not bet on it.
You talk about showing your colors ,
Now why on earth would YOU TWO out of thin air create TWO THREADS not just one and mention me and wanting me to respond.
THAT MY FRIEND SHOWS YOUR COLORS. I don't know about others but I may have been born late BUT NOT YESTERDAY.
I have responded and you can take it or leave it and just live with what you have.
Ride Safe
Alleyoop
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 6, 2015 14:10:58 GMT -5
The big question is why are you guys with big carbs running lower weight rollers and sliders,,thats the one that has me scatchin my head  My scooter is strong on bottom end through midrange below 7K RPM with 12-13g..maybe the lack of vacuum and whatever else is happening is causing the bottom to mid to be effected? I have no idea but just saying,,I need to get one and test myself... That is a fact Jersey, my 62bbk even with a 60mm stroker I am running with 12 gram Dr. Pulley Sliders and can get 7+ rpms. I have it set up so I do not need high rpms to get top end speed plus I do not like high rpms anywhy and high rpms is not good for any motor. Not to put fuel in the fire but I am tired of these two mentioning me in their BS posts to get me to respond, I mean it is so obvious they are itching for a pissing match..LOL Well here is my response, What you two should be be asking yourselves is WHY OH WHY out of THOUSANDS only TWO of us need 9 gram weights to get descent rpms. Now get your two heads working and pming each other and what not and figure out what is common between you two. It is NOT the variators they are different so that theory goes out the door, but I believe you two will be able to figure it out. Most of us on here already know the answer and it wasn't just me but a few real motor heads also mentioned what the problem is was and will be.  KNOWS. Alleyoop |
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 6, 2015 13:30:20 GMT -5
Fantastic Kha!! Good job
Ride Safe
Alleyoop
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 6, 2015 12:56:54 GMT -5
Here you go Jersey,
61bbk, bought a 30mm carb would not put out slapped in a 28mm carb and created a Beast. Now that is a bad to the bone motor.
Alleyoop
|
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 6, 2015 12:49:09 GMT -5
30 didn't work, 28 did, bigger is not always better. Have we finally cleared that up?  +10 on that one Jerry And for those that asked about the 24J carbs the pilots are #35 and the Mains are anywhere from 103-107s. Alleyoop |
|
|
|
Post by alleyoop on Feb 4, 2015 21:01:06 GMT -5
Yes the problem is mostly they either come out to far which then creates a problem mounting the muffler, You then need to bend the PIPE so that the muffler aligns with the mount. Or the pipe does not come out enough and may hit the fan shroud etc.. Or the pipe is bent to low or to high, .
|
|
..BAD TO THE BONE..
