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Post by millsc on Jan 16, 2014 15:39:58 GMT -5
With my ncy big bore kit and a14 cam I don't lose much speed on fairly steep hills mines set up for torque and hill climbing. Mine does 67 GPS on flat at around 7500 rpm my revs don't go higher than that and its fine by me.
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Post by millsc on Jan 16, 2014 15:36:10 GMT -5
I love my 150 huge difference in power and ride. I started with a 10 inch wheel 50cc to the 13 inch wheels way more comfortable and stable.
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Post by millsc on Jan 16, 2014 0:53:59 GMT -5
My ncy 61mm big bore kit went on without boring and works great.
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Post by millsc on Jan 15, 2014 9:17:17 GMT -5
I sold six scooters last summer and offered six month warranties only if they brought it back not wrecked or tinkered with. If they tried to fix it themselves first they would have to pay for repairs. If they didn't mess with and something just quit I would of fixed it free. After you mess with it the bike is yours to figure out how to fix parts and labor. I took all my new bikes apart as soon as I got them, but I knew I voided the warranty and all repairs were my responsibility after that which was fine for me.
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Post by millsc on Jan 13, 2014 17:44:21 GMT -5
Keep doing it, it gets easy once you get it right once. I always use Dr pulley sliders and have several different weights all in the cases marked with grams. I run all my 50cc scoots with 5 gram sliders on stock variators and 6 gram sliders with koso or performance variators I run 9 to 9.5 grams with koso variators and 1.5k torque spring 7 to 7.5 gram sliders stock variator 1.5k spring and I always use 1k or stock clutch springs and never go over 1.5k on the torque spring tears up belts and awful to compress to change belts or weights. These are my formulas for the 50cc's. The 150s seem to run great with 12 gram weights stock. I'm running 11 and 13 gram mixed with a 1.5k spring had to lower the weights and add the spring to get my rpms up after the gear change.
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Post by millsc on Jan 12, 2014 15:31:41 GMT -5
Adjust the valves and clean the carb and jets.
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Post by millsc on Jan 12, 2014 14:31:07 GMT -5
The enricher on your carb puts out extra fuel until it warms up and shuts off could be bogging due to too much fuel. In colder weather it takes longer for the enricher to fully extend and shut off. Adjust your a/f screw or just let it warm up awhile before you ride I always let mine run until the idle kicks down before I take off.
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Post by millsc on Jan 12, 2014 10:31:19 GMT -5
I'd go with a ncy or taida big bore kit, but if its a 125cc i think 58.5 is as big as you can go and you won't see much gains, if its a 150cc you can go up to 61mm taida or ncy kit without boring the case.
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Post by millsc on Jan 11, 2014 10:23:22 GMT -5
i actually have a used 50mm kit that works fine i'd sell for cheap around 700 miles on the kit. Was on my stepsons before we upgraded it to an airsal i'd let go for 30 shipped.
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Post by millsc on Jan 11, 2014 10:01:08 GMT -5
They send the rockers to match the head so it doesn't matter what your old head valve length was. I always knew what valves were in the scoots so now I have tons of extra rockers.
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Post by millsc on Jan 10, 2014 22:09:42 GMT -5
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Post by millsc on Jan 10, 2014 21:59:55 GMT -5
Stock pipe the big bore kit and an open air filter you'll be good to go.
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Post by millsc on Jan 10, 2014 21:58:02 GMT -5
Yes use the stock cam does just fine the cam works to its full potential with a head with bigger valves, open air filter and free flow exhaust.
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Post by millsc on Jan 10, 2014 21:55:14 GMT -5
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Post by millsc on Jan 10, 2014 21:49:56 GMT -5
The kit works just fine comes with head new rockers and even the jet I have installed it many times big improvement over stock.
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