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Post by florida on Jul 13, 2015 23:28:09 GMT -5
What is it? Its on the left side, located beneath the Kickstarter and in front of the rear brake cable. Looks like a hose barb that leads into the oil pan. Maybe someone had an oil cooler hooked up and removed it / plugged the barb before selling to you. That nut right behind it is the oil drain ... right? No, that nut is not the oil drain. I havent changed the transmission fluid yet either since buying it.
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Post by florida on Jul 13, 2015 22:38:31 GMT -5
So, should i run a line from it to the air filter?
I am getting a uni filter tommorrow. How would i connect a line from cvt to uni filter
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Post by florida on Jul 12, 2015 18:44:40 GMT -5
I dont know if its me or not, but your link isnt working. Do you mind giving a real one please?
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Post by florida on Jul 12, 2015 16:42:16 GMT -5
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Post by florida on Jul 12, 2015 16:09:28 GMT -5
Im going to contact my father whos a mechanic with "some" welding experience. He might have some insight on welding flanges to pipes and if need be, adjoining two pieces of pipe.
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Post by florida on Jul 12, 2015 15:47:25 GMT -5
When i install the studs, should i use never seize?
I have two nuts i can use to screw the stud in with.
What do you do when you install studs?
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Post by florida on Jul 12, 2015 15:41:48 GMT -5
Ive dissconnected the frame from engine. And drained the oil before tipping it upside down to drill studs. I had to take some bolts from fender so plastic doesnt get bent badly.
I did manage to break an easy out off in the first stud though. The second stud was a major success:
I, a few times sprayed the stud with carb cleaner and tapped the stud lightly to knock it free of rust so its easier to back out.
1) i center punched the stud and used the same small drill to make a pilot hole about 1/4 inches deep. 2) i used a drill one size bigger than the first drill i used and from time to time put a dab of motor oil with a q-tip into the hole im drilling. I drilled a hole into the stud probaly about 10mm! Remember to plug up the exhaust hole with a shop rag so metal shavings dont get into the engine. 3) i lightly tapped with a hammer the extractor bit into the hole. It twisted itself into the hole! It took minimal effort using a small adjustable wrench to back out the broken stud.
The stud that the smallest extractor snapped off in i am drilling into with a new drill bit.
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Post by florida on Jul 12, 2015 12:48:37 GMT -5
Heres my exhaust head. Is it possible to modify with a dremel type tool if you were confident that you would be happy with the final result? I want higher flow . Havent ever seen any pics of what a machinist would want to do to this part either. Another pic:
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Post by florida on Jul 12, 2015 11:51:29 GMT -5
Heres what ive got on my stock 50cc 4 stroke gy6 as far as an exhaust system. Im looking to bbk/other normal mods soon. Im hesitant about an Ebay exhaust though. I think that i want to get an exhaust shop to custom bend a "header" that is a much larger diameter. Am i right in calling the picture a header? The piece in the picture is a smaller diameter than the rest of the pipe beneath the muffler. I briefly read today about using a dremal grinding tool to shape smoother the insert in what i believe is a bent mandrel piece . Is it possible to buy a high flow bent mandrel piece? I dont want to spend alot of money having a performance shop custom bend me a header. It may be $65 - ? Dollars considering they have to at least make two welds attatching the top and bottom clamps to custom made pipe or header or whatever they are called. The insert look to be about 17mm Id. The pipe itself looks to be 23mm Id without insert. Thats a difference of 6mm. Od looks to be about 22mm Od of pipe looks 29mm. This is the pipe beneath the exhaust but above skinnier pipe attatched to exhaust head If you would like to contribute to this thread a good start complete with photos and identifying of parts go to tuningmatters.com
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Post by florida on Jul 12, 2015 11:35:39 GMT -5
What is it? Its on the left side, located beneath the Kickstarter and in front of the rear brake cable.
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Post by florida on Jul 12, 2015 9:27:36 GMT -5
Hey, I already know how to reverse drill and then eazy out the broken off exhaust studs. Been riding around with one stud holding the header to head. I had initially tipped my ride over breaking the single clamp holding exhaust pipe to frame. After about 50 miles of riding the stress was too much and one of the studs broke. I then bought two new round clamps and installed them. After about 150 miles of riding the second stud sheered off and one of the round clamps also broke! Its time for me to take off the exhaust head and put it on my worktable where i can successfully remove and install new 4mm studs and foil gasket. I plan on removing engine from frame. I do know how to do this and plan on using a milk crate to balance the frame on. I have a rafter in my shed i figure i could use rope to suspend the frame from. Is this nessecary or reccomended? Have you any experience using a milk crate to balance frame while engine is dissconnected? How did that work? I cant locate my roomate right now so Ill be doing this job solo. My only concern is what does removing the exhaust head involve? Is there a gasket? I will be doing a 83cc bbk with all the mods soon so this should be fun. I just want to take some other "heads" along for the ride! Lol?
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Post by florida on Jul 11, 2015 22:48:02 GMT -5
This is a pic of the cardboard and foil gasket that came with my new studs. I bought new studs because one of mine broke off and it developed a loud exhaust leak. What other gaskets should i use? Are you asking if you should just use that one gasket ,or possibly two gaskets together ? Many of us only use the one metal ncy type gasket on our free flow exhausts. I just recently heard that some use this gasket along with the round crush type gasket , but its usually not necessary to use both gaskets together. The metal ncy type is best. Ok, whats in the picture is what i have?
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Post by florida on Jul 11, 2015 16:35:33 GMT -5
Bump
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Post by florida on Jul 7, 2015 3:20:41 GMT -5
This is a pic of the cardboard and foil gasket that came with my new studs. I bought new studs because one of mine broke off and it developed a loud exhaust leak. What other gaskets should i use?
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Post by florida on Jul 4, 2015 0:18:53 GMT -5
Ok, phew, i thought i was losing my mind! Now what about the hole on the stock airbox? Plug it up?
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