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Post by florida on Jul 12, 2015 9:27:36 GMT -5
Hey, I already know how to reverse drill and then eazy out the broken off exhaust studs. Been riding around with one stud holding the header to head. I had initially tipped my ride over breaking the single clamp holding exhaust pipe to frame. After about 50 miles of riding the stress was too much and one of the studs broke. I then bought two new round clamps and installed them. After about 150 miles of riding the second stud sheered off and one of the round clamps also broke! Its time for me to take off the exhaust head and put it on my worktable where i can successfully remove and install new 4mm studs and foil gasket. I plan on removing engine from frame. I do know how to do this and plan on using a milk crate to balance the frame on. I have a rafter in my shed i figure i could use rope to suspend the frame from. Is this nessecary or reccomended? Have you any experience using a milk crate to balance frame while engine is dissconnected? How did that work? I cant locate my roomate right now so Ill be doing this job solo. My only concern is what does removing the exhaust head involve? Is there a gasket? I will be doing a 83cc bbk with all the mods soon so this should be fun. I just want to take some other "heads" along for the ride! Lol?  |
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Post by JerryScript on Jul 12, 2015 11:49:28 GMT -5
There is only one head with both intake and exhaust ports. You will need a new head gasket. Remove the valve cover, set the engine to TDC by rotating till the flywheel aligns with the T mark and the cam gear holes are at lined up with the head, then use a dab of paint or a grease pen to mark the timing chain position on the cam gear for perfect reassembly alignment. Next remove the four head bolts holding the rocker arm assembly, remove the rocker and cam gear, then pull the head. Reassemble in reverse with a new head gasket.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 12, 2015 13:38:39 GMT -5
Hey, I already know how to reverse drill and then eazy out the broken off exhaust studs. Been riding around with one stud holding the header to head. I had initially tipped my ride over breaking the single clamp holding exhaust pipe to frame. After about 50 miles of riding the stress was too much and one of the studs broke. I then bought two new round clamps and installed them. After about 150 miles of riding the second stud sheered off and one of the round clamps also broke! Its time for me to take off the exhaust head and put it on my worktable where i can successfully remove and install new 4mm studs and foil gasket. I plan on removing engine from frame. I do know how to do this and plan on using a milk crate to balance the frame on. I have a rafter in my shed i figure i could use rope to suspend the frame from. Is this nessecary or reccomended? Have you any experience using a milk crate to balance frame while engine is dissconnected? How did that work? I cant locate my roomate right now so Ill be doing this job solo. My only concern is what does removing the exhaust head involve? Is there a gasket? I will be doing a 83cc bbk with all the mods soon so this should be fun. I just want to take some other "heads" along for the ride! Lol? Couple of suggestions: 1. Doing this by yourself is no problem at all. With the wheel still attached you can lift the engine with 1 hand. You DO need to raise the frame a bit, but you can do that any way you want. Crate. Jack. Rafter. We are not talking big weights here. 2. Good luck drilling / Easy-Outing the stud. It's possible to do, but the stud is steel and the head aluminum so the slightest error and the drill is into soft aluminum. With the low price of replacement (new) heads many would not even consider the job .... or would (1) replace the head; (2) try to remove the stud on the "spare" head so an error isn't a big deal. 3. Especially if you plan to BBK your scoot soon, why mess with the old head? |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jul 12, 2015 15:34:29 GMT -5
I miss the days when you proudly displayed a photo of your pink beast.
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Post by florida on Jul 12, 2015 15:41:48 GMT -5
Ive dissconnected the frame from engine. And drained the oil before tipping it upside down to drill studs. I had to take some bolts from fender so plastic doesnt get bent badly.
I did manage to break an easy out off in the first stud though.
The second stud was a major success:
I, a few times sprayed the stud with carb cleaner and tapped the stud lightly to knock it free of rust so its easier to back out.
1) i center punched the stud and used the same small drill to make a pilot hole about 1/4 inches deep.
2) i used a drill one size bigger than the first drill i used and from time to time put a dab of motor oil with a q-tip into the hole im drilling. I drilled a hole into the stud probaly about 10mm! Remember to plug up the exhaust hole with a shop rag so metal shavings dont get into the engine.
3) i lightly tapped with a hammer the extractor bit into the hole. It twisted itself into the hole!
It took minimal effort using a small adjustable wrench to back out the broken stud.
The stud that the smallest extractor snapped off in i am drilling into with a new drill bit.
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Post by florida on Jul 12, 2015 15:47:25 GMT -5
When i install the studs, should i use never seize?
I have two nuts i can use to screw the stud in with.
What do you do when you install studs?
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 13, 2015 15:13:17 GMT -5
When i install the studs, should i use never seize? I have two nuts i can use to screw the stud in with. What do you do when you install studs? I usually use the copper based anti-seize on mine. But my exhaust studs are modified a little bit, see link itistheride.boards.net/thread/6971/fix-stripped-hole-pics |
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Post by geh3333 on Jul 13, 2015 17:17:44 GMT -5
I would not use any. These exhaust studs come loose very easy " that is the stock ones " the main thing is not over tightening them. I would use the red loctite and make sure you do not overtighten . this way you do not have to crank down on them and you know they should stay in place. That's usually why these things break . everyone keeps cranking them down because they seem loose or keep coming loose.
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 14, 2015 8:27:18 GMT -5
I would not use any. These exhaust studs come loose very easy " that is the stock ones " the main thing is not over tightening them. I would use the red loctite and make sure you do not overtighten . this way you do not have to crank down on them and you know they should stay in place. That's usually why these things break . everyone keeps cranking them down because they seem loose or keep coming loose. Thats why I always put steel thread inserts on my bikes when I pull the head. Keeps people from stripping out the exhaust holes. Takes 25-30mins and saves alot of trouble later on. |
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