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Post by steve on Nov 30, 2021 0:59:36 GMT -5
They sell high torque starters on eBay. Search for it. Also, DO NOT USE "performance " or "racing CDI. Use the stock CDI, and a high torque starter. Also, replace cable going to starter, and from battery to engine ground with at least 10g wire.
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Post by steve on Jun 8, 2021 19:47:10 GMT -5
Where do you get your parts from?
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Post by steve on Jun 8, 2021 19:45:42 GMT -5
Your CVT is dope. Do they make that stuff for 50cc engines?
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Post by steve on Jun 8, 2021 19:42:22 GMT -5
Your old engine probably had the 8 pole stator with the floating ground. Your new one probably has the 6 pole stator. Your headlights are sucking a lot of juice, and your stator isn't making enough to run them and charge the battery. Those lights run on AC voltage straight from the stator. I would get an 11 pole stator and 7 wire regulator, and run all of your lights off the battery via a relay.
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Post by steve on Jun 8, 2021 19:38:19 GMT -5
Get a new intake manifold. There's likely a cracked in yours letting air in and making it idle weird.
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Post by steve on Apr 11, 2021 1:28:00 GMT -5
Long time no see. Just got an Ice Bear that's kind of a Ruckus clone. Not the low rider Ruckus. Congrats on the new scoot
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Post by steve on Mar 16, 2021 2:47:16 GMT -5
Anyone have any success with the red clutch springs? I tried it, and it's just too much. Revs up the RPM too high. Even after heavier variator weights.
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Post by steve on Mar 15, 2021 2:20:23 GMT -5
I can't really find a thread that covers this, so I figured I'd do it. Installing an 11 pole stator: if you have an 8 pole, your existing flywheel will do fine. Keep the connectors on the pickup and ignition wires. Hook them up as usual. You will need to run 2 new wires from stator to regulator. You can only re use the white wire. The existing yellow wire is running your lights on AC. You can get a harness made, I just use bullet connectors.just cap off the existing yellow wire. Connect the white wire to the existing white wire. Run new wires from the pink and yellow wires to where the 7 wire regulator is going. Cap off the existing yellow wire, well use that later. Connect the green ground to the green. Once you mount the 7 wire regulator, again, you can get a harness made, I use bullet connectors. Connect the 3 yellows from the reg to the white, yellow, and pink wires from stator. Green to green. Black goes to the black wire coming out of the ignition that shows 12v DC when the key is on. Red to red. The white wire we will discuss now. The white wire is a 12v DC wire. I use it to run additional LED headlights. Plus you can either A) Connect it to the old yellow wire that you capped off and disconnected from the stator and regulator- all your lights are connected to this wire. But sometimes at idle this wire doesn't have quite enough juice, so you can connect the yellow wire to the battery via a relay, and use the white wire as a trigger wire...or...
You can Connect the old yellow wire to the black wire from the regulator and switch, this way your lights come on with the switch. Again, if you have too much wattage for the 18g black wire, you can use it to trigger a relay from the battery if you like your lights to come on with the key. Black wire- lights come on with key White wire- lights come on with engine.
About as simply as I can explain it. Remember, your headlights and running tail light is connected to the yellow wire we capped off.. questions, post here.
Some stator will have 3 yellow wires, some have white, yellow, and pink. These are the 3 phase power wires.
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Post by steve on Mar 14, 2021 23:46:15 GMT -5
May be a little late Hope it's fixed. But if not, check that the pickup wire(blue and white) and ignition wire (red and black) are not crossed. Ignition wire goes to red wire. Pickup wire goes to wire that is red and white most of the time
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Post by steve on Mar 24, 2017 10:59:19 GMT -5
I don't think back pressure is very important, at all, in a four stroke. If you can afford it, just get a performance exhaust. If the outer, pre filter won't fit, it won't fit. Here is a link for one with a ' elbow on it: www.ebay.com/itm/42mm-Performance-Air-Filter-GY6-150CC-250CC-ATV-Go-Kart-Pit-Dirt-Bike-Scooter-/262316080408?hash=item3d1341bd18:g:46EAAOSwoBtW1smn&vxp=mtrAs for the exhaust, you can gut yours, and that will probably be fine. You can get some nice, performance exhaust, that look really good, for a good price. Here is a link, or two, if you want to consider it. The performance gains from a CDI are minimal. Anyways, here are some exhausts to look at: These are from about $50, and up: www.ebay.com/itm/motorcycle-performance-exhaust-muffler-for-Scooter-GY6-150cc-Chinese-Scooters-/201840104904?hash=item2efe9b95c8:g:TZcAAOSw4CFYuOyv&vxp=mtr
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Post by steve on Mar 24, 2017 9:25:22 GMT -5
Do ya'll know where I can get the bearings? I normally get stuff on ebay, but I don't know what bearings to get, or what they are called.
Are they hard to get out? Do I need a puller?
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Post by steve on Mar 23, 2017 7:59:47 GMT -5
Yea you can handle this job,,,sounds like the bearings for the axel are going away Thanks. You are saying that it is the rear wheel axle bearings? Do I need to replace the final drive shaft, and those bearings, plus the clutch shaft?
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Post by steve on Mar 23, 2017 5:57:24 GMT -5
Hello, friends. I have a question about 50cc scooter transmissions. I have had multiple exhaust failures, and now belts are breaking in about 30 miles. I took the CVT cover off while it was running, and the shafts that the clutch rides on is not true. It wobbles, causing the clutch to wobble. That is causing belts to snap, and the vibration is causing the exhaust to crack.
What is that shaft called? Do I just replace it? Is there bearings I have to replace? I have replaced virtually everything on a scooter before, including a crankshaft, except any gears. Will I be able to do this?
Thanks.
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Post by steve on Feb 11, 2017 16:27:00 GMT -5
You change the carb jet to a larger one?
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Post by steve on Feb 11, 2017 16:21:11 GMT -5
I removed all connectors on wires going to CDI, and put new connectors on. Replaced the pickup coil, and it runs. I don't know which it was, but I suspect the connections.
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