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Post by steve on Feb 5, 2016 8:12:22 GMT -5
I don't see an option to post pics from my phone.
I threw away most of them, but I found one, and I also want ya'll to look at a plug I've been running on for about a week, to make sure my take on what they should look like is not wrong.
i changed over to desktop mode, and followed the steps to post a pic, so if it loads, this is one of the ones that made it so hard to start. I took one out of my scoot, and there is no need to post a pic. It looks fantastic! It's a brass colored Iridium one, and it's in great shape.
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Post by steve on Feb 5, 2016 8:02:19 GMT -5
What do the bad plugs look like ? Can u post a pic ? this could tell us the problem . You know, I just remembered that I accidentally put a 110 main jet in my carb, and ran it for a while. It would accelerate great, but would sputter and burp once I got up to 35mph. I ordered a 38 idle jet, and they sent that huge main with it, and I put it in the bin with my 100's. That probably built up too much carbon on my plugs. They are black. They will still spark when I test them, but it's obviously too weak of a spark. I'll post pics later. A couple of questions: Do the orange coils really give you a hotter spark? Are iridium plugs worth it? What about those plugs with 3 electrodes on them? |
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Post by steve on Feb 5, 2016 7:43:57 GMT -5
I did put a stroker crank on mine. I'd heard from too many people that the crankshaft bearings would undoubtedly fail on the stock crankshaft, once I installed the 52mm BBK.
BTW, this Hoca stuff is really good. For 50cc scoots, Hoca is the way to go. I want to try their variator, but it's really expensive.
I have not changed the gears. If I did, I bet I could go 63mph, or more.
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Post by steve on Feb 5, 2016 7:37:19 GMT -5
I have a 50 with 40K miles on it. I have another one that is modded up to 100cc, and it is ridiculously quick. It has so many mods that it is less reliable. Stock, they are probably pretty equal in reliability. Your point about lights is backward: AC lights are only on when the engine is running. DC systems sometimes have lights that come on with the key, but you don't want to elrun the lights on these little batteries. I have enjoyed teaching myself how to work on these scoots. I will probably move up to a 150 here soon. But, I will end up modding it to the max, so it runs like a 250. Ha. I was able to get the 150 with a 58.5bbk and all the other mods " besides crank" to hit 67-68 on straight runs and up to 80 mph down a big hill, lol. I posted a 10 mile video of my scoot hitting 67 on straight runs and 76 down a semi big hill. The video had the GPS in the top corner showing the speeds . The main thing to remember is that I'm about 206-215 lbs , so imagine a 120-150 lbs rider. Nearly 65-100 lbs lighter would really let the scoot run closer to 75 mph on straight runs , maybe higher. Just a quick CVT adjustment and that thing will fly !! Wow! That is really good tuning! Impressive for a 150. I run a Koso variator now. Koso and DLH are really good for the money. I think they are the same variators, with different writing on them. I found these Kevlar belts on eBay that will chew up variators if you don't replace them when they are worn, but they get awesome climb. All the way up the variator. I need to make a video. I can get my scooter to at least 53 mph on a straightaway, and I think I might be able to hit 60 with a brand new belt. I'm going to try. With that variator and belt, the RPM do not get really high. It stays at a steady 7500 the whole time. |
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Post by steve on Feb 4, 2016 18:20:05 GMT -5
I see what you are saying.
I should have said the ground wire for the tail light.
It's either the ground wire, or the hot wire. That is the case for both the dash, and the tail lights. There is only two wires to each one.
Check the green wire on each for continuity with the frame. If that checks, then you are not getting 12v to the item in question.
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Post by steve on Feb 4, 2016 17:47:32 GMT -5
If the gasket maker says to remove all gasket material before using, then you need to remove it.
You can remove the shroud. There are screws and bolts you can take out to separate the 2 peices. Just separate them enough to give yourself enough room to stuff a rag in there and scrape it off.
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Post by steve on Feb 4, 2016 17:42:51 GMT -5
It's not a ground issue if the bike runs. Check the connections first, then if you haven't found the issue, use a continuity tester ($5) to test each wire in the lighting system. Why would the bike not run, if a lighting ground has come loose? I have had the ground of my tail light come loose, and the bike ran fine. |
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Post by steve on Feb 4, 2016 12:27:07 GMT -5
The clearance between the valves and the piston is a mm, or less, in most cases, I believe. There is not much room.
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Post by steve on Feb 4, 2016 12:23:32 GMT -5
It sounds like it could be a ground.
There are a few places where a couple of ground wires hook together, in the front, and in the back from the tail light.
Run a ground wire from the frame to the tail light, and see if it works. Same with the dash lights. It should be a green wire from the tail light. And a green from the dash.
It could also be the yellow/green wire from the brake switch.
Check grounds for continuity with frame. Then check power wires. You can follow the wire from the bulb socket on the tail light.
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Post by steve on Feb 4, 2016 12:09:23 GMT -5
Put some of that red silicone gasket maker on the head to even out the area, would be my solution.
You can take the top piece of the shroud off, to give you room to work. I would think some of that red silicone gasket maker will work.
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Post by steve on Feb 4, 2016 6:35:30 GMT -5
The other day I mistakenly used the .128mm/.004in. feeler gauge to adjust my valves rather than the .038mm. on both the intake and exhaust. My valves were mistakenly adjusted to .128in rather than .004 by me. Both intake and exhaust. Which one is the typo? With how those lobes are rounded, I would think the valves would close. With no chain on the cam, the pressure from the valves would turn it, I would think. Maybe you are right, and they could get stuck open. He will find out when he gets it back together. I wouldn't take the piston out of the cylinder, unless he absolutely has to. I am curious as to what made the chain come off. Please report back as to exactly what happened. |
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Post by steve on Feb 3, 2016 14:04:30 GMT -5
If you put a larger gap, the valves would not be opening enough.
If the chain came off while it was running, the valves would have stopped opening at all, so I don't think anything would have gotten bent.
You will find out when you get it started again, but I doubt it.
Set the valves again while you are in there.
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Post by steve on Feb 2, 2016 15:08:35 GMT -5
Cola is the capital.
I'm curious as to what happened.
I had the chain come off the sprocket while installing a BBK. I was able to get it back on without taking the cylinder off. It will save you a lot of time to not take the cylinder off.
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Post by steve on Feb 2, 2016 12:48:38 GMT -5
I forgot to tell you, the chain is driven by a sprocket on the crankshaft, then goes to the cam. If the sprocket on the crankshaft is messed up, you will be able to see down there with a flashlight, if it's damaged, you will have to replace the crankshaft. It probably just came off the sprocket. Your rocker arm assembly may have broken. Or your cam bearings may have gone. You will just have to look when you open her up.
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Post by steve on Feb 2, 2016 11:18:34 GMT -5
If it's perfect with a 75, get an 80.
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