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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 19, 2015 6:06:58 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum!
Don't forget about the Tech Library we have here. It has a lot of very useful and good information.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 18, 2015 21:51:06 GMT -5
+1 bone for the awesome post.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 18, 2015 21:48:23 GMT -5
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 18, 2015 9:06:54 GMT -5
By next week I should have some before and after videos. I'm also very interested to hear how she sounds. It's basiclly a straight pipe with a deceration on the end.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 17, 2015 22:24:10 GMT -5
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 13, 2015 21:28:16 GMT -5
NO Im Heruk but this thread on scootdoc is oil leak on Murphy's bike How did your break-in go? Are you still leaking oil? |
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 13, 2015 21:26:19 GMT -5
JerryScript. I could not agree more, the problem could be more than just CVT tuning. OP needs to take a systematic approach at solving the problem instead of merely treating the symptoms.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 13, 2015 19:54:53 GMT -5
First... Welcome to the forum frost.
How you describe your problem, it sounds like the CVT needs to be tuned. The acceleration problem would be solved by changing the weight of the rollers in your variator. Do you know the weight you have now? Typically 150cc scoots needs 12 or 13 gram rollers. And where do your RPMs top out at. It should top out around 6500-7000 RPMs.
Once you have your variator dialed in, and you still have problems with hills. The next step would be changing the contra spring. But I would recommend dialing in the variator first.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 13, 2015 18:59:16 GMT -5
That's good news! There is no point taking it to the dealer for something so simple. And thank you for posting the solution if anyone else has a similar scoot.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 13, 2015 9:59:55 GMT -5
Removing the negative battery terminal lead with the ignition key on didn't fix the problem. The oil service light is still on. Any other ideas other than taking it into the dealer or repair shop? Thanks. Have you tried calling the dealership and asking how to reset the light? It's probably just a specific sequence of actions that need to be performed. They may be able to tell you over the phone. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 12, 2015 17:48:43 GMT -5
It's good to hear you got it worked out.  |
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 12, 2015 9:49:22 GMT -5
I agree with everyone else. Sounds like the lights are drawing too much power. Something went sideways during this project.
If it was me I would uninstall the lights and start back from the beginning. Use a multimeter and test the battery at idle and when the rear brake light is on for voltage and how many amps are being drawn. Now you would have a baseline. After that test the wires to ensure you are hooking up the correct wires. No voltage should be present when the brake light is not on. Then install one strip at a time and test for voltage and amps being drawn. As you install each one the amount of amps used should increase.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 11, 2015 21:51:46 GMT -5
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 11, 2015 21:45:07 GMT -5
Now you have me excited. I contacted the seller and they said it was sent yesterday, and a tracking would be available Monday. I'll post results and how it affects my carb.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jul 11, 2015 20:58:45 GMT -5
If you still have a glass fuse I would suggest switching to an ATM inline fuse. The glass ones are notorious for failure. And sometimes hard to find. They are sold at Walmart and auto parts stores. The splicing should be done with soldering and heat shrink. That would ensure it is secure and resistant to failure.  |
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