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I just took apart my front end and found you know how there is a metal piece on the end of the bearings for the front wheel? It looks like a metal disc sort of but is shaped so it can connect to the speedo so the speedo picks up on rotations. This metal piece looks as if it is responsible for KEEPING the bearing in, yet it is very loose, does not stay in the wheel and whenever I put the wheel back on the axle with this it falls out resulting in the bearings falling out the side of the wheel where this is... Mind you it is NOT the side of the wheel that connects to the brake or has a rubber seal... though this metal piece looks as if it should have some rubber idk it's very worn out.


My question though is what is it called so I can order a new one, or should I just go the extra length and get a new rim? I feel it is what is supposed to hold the bearings in the wheel rim, so I feel it is important to replace so it does not keep popping out of the wheel and making my wheel act funny...

This was on 12 inch rims, but a heavy scoot with ebay shocks I plan to rebuild.

I have had 2 scoots, exact in every aspect except weights/rollers. I feel that mixing weights does not in fact "even out" or "average." Had a scoot with all 8g weights, and another with 7.5 and 8.5 (which would have a mean value of 8g) and found it does NOT perform the same. While the theory works in math, I feel the math is too simplified and we are still missing some factors in the equation, or maybe just I am the only one who feels this way. Averaged weights do not have the same acceleration rate, but do have the same top speeds which is why I think people think averaged weights are worthwhile. I feel during acceleration the heavier weights push out faster than the lighter weights and this is what causes the difference in acceleration.

I went over a pothole on my big scooter while turning, and one side of the tripletree bent, only one side not the stem just the part connecting the left shock to the middle stem. Figured I got lucky this time, removed it. Popped an old "useless" shock in the problem side, figured out the angle I needed to create pressure in order to reverse the damage, and clamped the point right where it started to bend, held onto the clamp and gently onto the stem, and went to town banging the end of the shock on the ground to create the force I needed in the correct angle, and surprise to me it actually freakin worked!!! I removed the "useless" shock and reinstalled and rides even better than before somehow.

Now that I've basically "damaged" it in the reverse direction it was originally damaged, have I opened myself up to failures like the fork snapping later on or something? 

My 92cc scoot with long case 139qmb engine has been suffering some overflow issues lately. When I ride it on a hot (- degrees) day and I have been running it for about 20 minutes or more, varied distances between just a few miles with lots of stop and go heavy city traffic, to about 12 miles or more with lots of WOT and mid range throttle when I come to a stop after going for that long in those different circumstances it will start to pour gas out the carb vent hose and even if I stop the engine will continue to pour out and also into the engine and out of the air filter as well until I turn the manual petcock off. 

I felt like this might have been float related, and don't know of any other ideas, so I took apart the carb and inspected everything. All seemed to be in good order so I did a good cleaning and reassembled it, and it worked great for a couple days, got about 60-80 miles of use before it started acting up again doing the same exact thing.

Now after inspecting the parts, cleaning it and making it look nice and shiny inside and out, this problem still arises, but only on hot days, and also does not matter if I have a full or almost empty tank of gas (gravity fed tank above carb with manual petcock). I am stumped... I got to work just fine, rode it around the parking lot for about 45 minutes, and it is completely fine, but earlier in the day when it was about 88degrees outside it would NOT stop having issues... 


So is it possible for floats to only have issues in certain ranges of heat maybe? OR maybe the float is going bad? 

Well the problem resolved itself over a short amount of time. I will have to replace the pads though, they seem to be worn to the plates.

Well 2k seems really short, I drive more than that each month just going to work and back and only replace my variator maybe once or twice a year on my good scooter. My secondary scooter I have setup with a kevlar belt and some knockoff high quality parts (which I do not recommend) but I only use that one to do burnouts and race my friends, purely an enjoyment ride.

Also if you choose to use a kevlar belt, it will wear the variator and clutch out, but hey the belt will still be fine when your variator shatters into pieces, that bullet proof technology. It's great though if you live in Boston or any hilly region, I would recommend getting high quality parts though to match with the kevlar belt, stock parts and kevlar belts work well in the beginning but then down the line wear out the other parts, usually the clutch then the variator in my experiences.

I have found, if you want your ride to last the longest, keep it close to stock, only replace the belt with a premium gates or bando belt (not kevlar, aramid), and replace the CDI and coil with high quality parts like casoli cdi and an actual high power coil made of quality parts. It's when you start wanting more out of yoru ride that you decrease the potential mileage of parts. Unless it's a taotao, then replace a LOT MORE, like everything...