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Post by lain on Aug 19, 2016 13:00:11 GMT -5
The correct size belt on a short case engine is impossible to change without tools. Get an emergency impact wrench from harbor freight ($20 investment will pay for itself in less than one use if you compare to shop costs). You will also need a 14mm and 17mm impact sockets for the nuts on the variator and clutch shafts. Will also be extremely useful to have on hand for emergency belt changes, you can keep this and a belt in yoru bucket and never worry again, this kind of security of mind is priceless. It runs off of the battery in the scooter, no need for anything extra.
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Post by lain on Aug 18, 2016 16:38:39 GMT -5
Notice that all the scooters in that video have 14-16" wheels. After two years on a 10" scooter, and now 1 3/4 years on a 16" scooter, I will never go back to smaller wheels! I like both, each have different characteristics. For instance; in the city I have to drive slower on 13 inch+ wheels. With 10 inch wheels however I can corner without slowing too much and avoid potholes very easily. With larger wheels however I can ride over some potholes but at the last moment if I notice a pothole I can't ride easily I have to brace instead of avoid since the tires are too large on bigger wheel bikes to just corner around potholes as they appear only a couple feet or less in front of you. I however would take the bigger bikes for longer trips as they do feel more comfortable and handle bumps a lot better. But those tiny wheels are so fun to corner around things. In Boston, anytime you leave you are basically going through an obstacle course every which way you might go, sometimes so many potholes you can't help but miss a dozen (not kidding). |
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Post by lain on Aug 17, 2016 12:16:29 GMT -5
I guess it's up to the rider's perspective on what they believe is close or not. That scooter looks more like a 2 seater tour motorcycle, wish I had one.
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Post by lain on Aug 16, 2016 17:19:21 GMT -5
Anyone in Boston or decent scooter distance from Boston? Looking to chill with locals and maybe form a club. The only club I've found in Boston so far is run by a cranky 50 something year old power-tripping dude. Horrible experience with that group. Looking for people who are mature and well mannered who are looking for a democracy type group, not a 1 man decides all type group.
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Post by lain on Aug 16, 2016 14:21:03 GMT -5
One day I will see you all down there... one day... I promise you that. I gotta get into legal racing haha.
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Post by lain on Aug 15, 2016 12:32:01 GMT -5
Is it even possible to get that close on a scooter? A motorcycle sure but a scooter... Hmm... I have gone pretty low but never so low my knee was at risk of getting road burn, haha.
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Post by lain on Aug 14, 2016 21:53:36 GMT -5
It may or may not be the right size, but that is not an indication of wrong size. All my long case engines do that, but they all have the right belts. It's best to look up your parts by model, like google for "[model] cvt v-belt" and see which size comes up the most often on good sites, or if you got it from a dealer just ask them.
Cheap variators usually are exactly that; cheap. You will probably want to just go for a quality performance variator since it's what's responsible for transferring the engine power to the rear finalgears/wheel. I spent I think about 40-50 on mine an haven't bought a new one since, plus good sellers on ebay will often replace items if they arrive and there are any dings or anything wrong with it which is something I like.
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Post by lain on Aug 14, 2016 13:05:12 GMT -5
Hello, Been having a problem with my Peace Sports Ruckus clone. Was riding and started acting like it was stuck in highest gear, took it home and it was, rollers were all jammed and had burrs on them. Got new belt and rollers and same thing happened again? Any advice? Wanted to check if I'm using right size belt, have a 12 rear tire and gy6 50cc, using 729-17.7-30. Almost feels too big? Thanks Wrong belt size does not affect the rollers, I've experimented extensively with using wrong size belts, the most that happens is they jam and tear into pieces on deccel. Sounds like it may be the variator, or shaft, if the variator has any dings at all in it remove it and use it as a paperweight, cuz that's all you can use it for. It may also be, but less likely, a bad clutch spring. Either way whatever the cause is this phenomenon happens when the weight is not distributed properly due to whatever gremlin is living in there. Weird divots and crud in your variator that may have been caused by normal use or a foreign object can cause offset and abnormal wear, also if the variator is warped from heat (it happens) it will throw everything off. Even if the original problem is solved if you do not replace things like the variator after a break-down (they get damaged from running bad rollers) you risk it coming back worse, that's why I replace every piece instead of wasting time doing piece by piece. Take your variator out and take some nice well lit pictures of it, you may notice in the pictures things you cannot see clearly with your eyes. |
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Post by lain on Aug 14, 2016 6:11:59 GMT -5
I would strongly suggest getting an experienced mechanic to put together your top end, don't even attempt to put it back together. Or, start doing research and learn how to understand every aspect of your engine, then you would be prepared to do a BBK. At this point either way you should get a mechanic, or do the required research. Once you have done so the above won't be a question anymore. BBK's are not for beginner mechanics, they require a certain level of skill and finnesse if you don't want to ruin it and end up somewhere 1-3k miles later wondering why your engine completely shat the bricks and became an ugly useless paperweight.
To get you started, I suggest trying to actually put the effort in to try to find the info you need, then we can help you but we aren't here to do sh for you. I googled "big bore kit guide" and found many many pages on how to do it... so... not sure how you had difficulty finding that. If you have questions we can clarify, but please try a little bit bro...
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Post by lain on Aug 12, 2016 12:42:18 GMT -5
My side stand drags the ground when I turn left.....  One of my scoots has a horrible center stand scraping issue when doing any turns or going over bumps, but it doesn't do any damage to the engine and keeps people off my a$%. lol |
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Post by lain on Aug 12, 2016 12:35:22 GMT -5
Oh man, had a very similar issue recently, feel bad for you and ur scoot. Be very careful taking it apart and putting it back together when installing the new head. Make sure to find the cause of the foreign object before installing the new head or may have to do it again.
At this point you have a few options, you can get a gasket, and a new top end head with valves already installed and ready, this will return it back to it's former glory. You can also go ahead and do a big bore kit upgrade since you already have it taken apart, or if you don't want to pull the cylinder and piston out you can simply get a large valve head which will increase the input and output abilities of the engine and give you some more oomph once tuned to the new specs.
I can't tell from the pics if your cylinder is trash or not, needs a lot more light, but that head may be salvageable but the chances are not worth the cost of time and parts so best to replace/upgrade.
Hit up/visit scrappy's site for quality parts.
scrappydogscooters.com
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Post by lain on Aug 12, 2016 12:02:11 GMT -5
Well I heard about tying your brake handle overnight, tried that now I have enough pressure to stop suddenly with 2 ppl riding if I pump it 3 times fast, so I guess you guys are right, almost there but apparently not completely. Will try bleeding it again if it doesn't continue to get better over the next couple days or so, but I have enough stopping power now but the lever is just really not giving much resistance still even when pumping, but it makes the brake work.
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Post by lain on Aug 11, 2016 21:38:48 GMT -5
Remember the stroke you move is very little it takes a long time till all air is gone. I use a reverse bleeder everyone know air wants to go up much easier not fighting the way air moves. What reverse bleeder do you use on scoots? I'd rather buy one I know people have used successfully. Spent another couple hours trying to bleed the system, another 32 ounces of brake fluid the world will never use : ( got a SLIGHT bit of resistance in the lever after removing the hose from both ends and checking for air, still didn't get any air out the hose on the bleeder but got a slight resistance so idk, i did everything else as I was doing it before except for loosening, compressing the lever and tightening the hose and letting go of the lever. While continuing to do this did not help make more pressure, it did give it a little pressure although stil not enough to hold the wheel still for even hand turning. I just don't understand how this is soooooooo easy on my other scooters, but on this I spent an entire day trying to just get SOME stopping power.... but with my other scoots I can do it the same ways and be done in half an hour every time... Another reason I'm frustrated is I spilled a bunch of brake fluid cuz I got impatient... my paint job was like new, now it looks like a salvage project by the paint job : ( |
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Post by lain on Aug 11, 2016 18:47:09 GMT -5
I tried pumping it multiple times and then loosening the bleeder, it would gush out in a huge fast burst then stop bleeding within a couple seconds. Then I would tighten the bleeder and pump it again, holding the lever each time i opened the bleeder.
Also tried the other method where you pump it 4-5 times then let go of the lever and squeeze it in and while it was going in unscrew the bleeder and when it made contact with the handlebar screwed it back in.
There is no leaks... This is driving me insane, I need to get to a meeting in the morning on this thing and need both brakes, just the front isnt enough when carrying a passenger like I'll be doing.
I've used up soooo many bottles of brake fluid it's ridiculous. I really haven't the slightest clue why it isn;t working, it worked fine and was almost rock hard pressure before even though before I changed the fluid there was almost nothing in the reservoir.
Could the master cylinder be broken? Could it be possible for them to brake simply from bleeding out old fluids?
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Post by lain on Aug 11, 2016 18:22:06 GMT -5
I pushed the pistons into the caliper to make sure they could move, required a clamp, they had a lot of resistance at the caliper, but no resistance in the lever but pumping it made the pistons go back out... but still no resistance...
It was actually working fine before, I only decided to change the fluid because it looked black.
All I have done so far is try various methods of bleeding because I can't find any consistent method. Each of them had the same results, no pressure at the lever but pressure at the caliper. Pulling the lever does not even slow the bike down, luckily I delayed doing the front brake line so I was not crashing into things... Ugh it's so hot today and I'm so frustrated with this not pressurizing.
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