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Post by lain on Aug 11, 2016 18:10:16 GMT -5
Ugh, I've been trying to do this for the past 5 hours straight, I'm sure the system is full and no air, the air bubbles stopped forever ago... I've tried every which way and ensured there is no leaks and it just WON'T PRESSURIZE.... I've wasted 76 ounces of brake fluid in total already!!! It's looks just as good coming out as going in, no air bubbles, still 0 pressure and no stopping power at all...
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Post by lain on Aug 11, 2016 15:55:26 GMT -5
I do this so rarely and just did it to my 150cc rear brake, and now can't get pressure. I believe I did it in the wrong order, and I look up posts and videos but keep getting mixed instructions. Some say to compress the brake lever, open the bleeder, close it, then let go of the lever and repeat, others say to open the bleeder,squeeze(compress) the brake lever, THEN close the bleeder, let go of the lever and repeat... I tried both to no avail, so maybe neither is right..?
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Post by lain on Aug 10, 2016 20:37:21 GMT -5
Or buy a barb for the bottom of the tank, and a manual petcock from your local small engine shop (yes, that shop that sells lawn mowers should have these, or lowe's). The above cost me about $5 in parts, used existing fuel line so no cost for that. Never had a problem since, that was about 2 years ago and have used that scoot sooooo often, over 20k added onto it in that time. Also frees you up from having to use vacuum lines, eliminating a lot of possible problems down the line before they can even have a chance to become problems, unless your carb requires it. They also sell manual generic petcocks on ebay, just measure the threads and diameter of the hole on the tank and buy one that matches.
To answer your question though vacuum petcocks don't require much pressure, but the flow should be listed, if not don't buy it.
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Post by lain on Aug 10, 2016 11:25:18 GMT -5
Alright, well I just say that because I have basically been saying the same exact thing the entire time and you haven't asked for clarification and it feels as if you aren't comprehending what I am saying and just moving on instead of asking.
Are you sure it is not moving, can you show us a video with sound? Is it just that the engine may be too hard to turn by hand (compression on 150cc scoots are generally too hard to turn by hand, use a socket wrench on the flywheel or end of the variator/output shaft to turn it), or does it feel as if it is tapping against something, or does it feel and sound like it is scraping something?
It may be possible it is still jammed but only at a certain point in rotation getting caught and rejamming (which happens with kickstarters with chewed up gears, can even engage while you are riding and cause a complete failure of all transmission parts). As I said; remove the kickstarter gears if they are causing issues, you can use your electric starter instead. Literally unscrew/remove the CVT cover, and with yoru hands, reach in, and gently pull the gears out, it's just that easy man.
I do hope you have a gap feeler set for the valve adjustment, sounded as if you did not, which will cause it to not run as well if adjusted without. You should not be just unscrewing valves... You should have measured the gap at tdc first, then unscrewed and keep measuring them and adjusting them until you get them to recommended settings. But don't worry about the valves until you can figure out why the engine is not fully rotating.
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Post by lain on Aug 9, 2016 21:52:08 GMT -5
Oh my goodness, like talking to a wall...
As I said before your transmission (CVT) is seized... Now explain to me please how you think the engine is going to turn when the output shaft is jammed??? You have to rectify this problem before attempting to work on ANYTHING else. Ignore the valves until you can turn the engine fully, the valves never go out far enough to seize the engine or cause damage to the piston. I recently had an issue with a valve sticking out all the way and it did not make contact with the piston at any time even though it was more than fully extended, bent, and jammed with a foreign object...
Simply remove the CVT cover and remove the kickstarter gears, you don't need them in there if your electric starter works and it's a heck of a lot simpler than valves. Also if your not at TDC then your valves will be in play, so of course they will be "tight" and not be able to move because they are currently pressing down on the valve...
Ask if you need clarification.
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Post by lain on Aug 9, 2016 17:25:48 GMT -5
Gear box? No, just the kickstarter gears which are located behind the CVT case.
No, it isn't the engine that is seized, the transmission is seized/jammed. The problems you described point to tight valves, make sure to adjust them to the correct gaps, do not wing it do not guess you could make things horribly worse, use a gap feeler set and set to 0.003 inch to 0.005 inch max.
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Post by lain on Aug 9, 2016 16:51:46 GMT -5
From the vague description of the symptoms your scoot is experiencing, I would say you need a valve adjustment, the exhaust valve is too tight, most likely the intake a little off too.
Your kickstarter problem is a separate isolated problem, they can only go so bad, but if left unchecked could ruin your entire transmission in a worst case scenario. If it is stuck and will no longer turn it is most likely got damaged teeth, hopefully that's all, gears can be easily replaced and do not require taking the entire transmission apart (but it helps a ton to do so).
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Post by lain on Aug 9, 2016 6:45:13 GMT -5
Rebuild kits for the petcock? What are you on...? Haha get a new one, they cost only a couple bucks.... If you like reliability I suggest getting a manual petcock and learn the habit of turning it off when not in use and on before starting up.
Adjusting the mixture screw is easy, and there's plenty of documentation on it in the forums and on google. The most common setting is 2 1/2 turns out from all the way screwed in as a starting point and then just adjust either way until you find the smoothest sound idle or if you have a tach around 1800 rpm (steady) on a stock engine (though I have successfully been able to idle all the way down to 800-1000 with certain blend of oil and gas and perfect tune), since it is summer you want it on the lean side, but not too lean.
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Post by lain on Aug 4, 2016 13:55:53 GMT -5
Have you tried checking the fuel and vacuum lines? Sometimes the problem is a loose end, could just cut it shorter by a quarter inch each end. Could also be hardened vacuum petcock, my old petcock on my 92cc before moving to manual did the same thing and for a long time I thought it was tuning issues and bought SOOO many jets...
Tears in the line are pretty easy to check, cover the end and blow on the other end, see if air flows even though it is blocked off. Minor tears/leaks can cause these issues like people said with low vacuum at high rpm. High RPM is the point when your engine has the least amount of vacuum power (yeah sounds backwards right?), so that's the point most likely to experience the issues with minor leaks.
Then again could be somethign else, we are just looking at it through our imaginations really.
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Post by lain on Aug 3, 2016 19:08:39 GMT -5
This thread is proof chinese scoots hold up to abuse : D
Gasket in ur stator? No problem let me just power thru it! Oh you took it out? Even better, thanks bro!-ur scoot
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Post by lain on Aug 1, 2016 22:52:10 GMT -5
Usually new scooter owners overfill the gas tank and if the gas tank is not vented through the cap it either flows out the vent tube into the rest of the system or out onto the ground, but if it doesn't have the ability to breathe thru the top then the only place it will be able to look for air is through the fuel hose. When they overfill it it starts acting up like not starting and not staying running and then after tons of effort they get it started but only after wasting a bunch of time and effort and freaking themselves out thinking they broke it.
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Post by lain on Jul 31, 2016 11:57:22 GMT -5
Thanks for all the heads up and information. I'm completely a newb to this and didn't believe I would have these type of issues after only driving it for one week. My initial plan was to drive it for a while and then once things began to break replace them with better parts. I didn't think I would need to start replacing parts 1 week into it lol. I'm going to take it back to the shop I got t from and see what they say. I looked on the Chuckuslife website and one of the first things it says to do is to replace the fuel/vacuum lines so I went ahead and bought some. I'm gonna drive it around my neighborhood today for a hour or two going 30 or less and try to get it to 300 miles so the engine is more broken in. Could this also be a carb issue? I eventually wanted to upgrade to a NCY 30mm carb down the road. Doesn't the lemon law apply to scooters too? Return it stop wasting money and time on a dud. |
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Post by lain on Jul 28, 2016 23:07:06 GMT -5
My 150 vento Scooter is doing the same thing lights are dim until I get over 20 mph. I replace the voatage regular no help. the pick up was replace last year along with the stator . until today it would act up line not getting enough gas I let it sit a half hour later it would start right up again and run a hour before it would act up until today in had to push the little basterd 2.5 miles to get it home I will check for loose wires I have a spare coil and cdi unit. I was thing carb I replace it 4000 miles ago . this scooter has over 14000 miles on it may be time to replace it I plan on waiting till next year so I can buy a 3 wheeler . Only 14k? You can get another 14k+ if you play your cards right. My current 150cc ride has over 32k on it and still running like new. I don't think anyone will follow my routines, but this is how I do my checks and whatnot; valves every 3 months, oil changes every 1 to 2 months (royal purple and marvel mystery oil 6:1, gotta love how it purrs with this mix all the way down to only ~1000rpm idle!), tire pressure checks every week, shot of seafoam or marvel mystery oil in the gas every 2-3 gas-ups, air filter cleaning at the change of each season (I ride year round), carb check and possible cleaning when doing air filter cleanings but  % of the time don't need to clean the carb, spark plug changes twice a year (usually right before and right after winter riding season), never had to change a cdi since I got casoli cdi's, change coils in the beginning of the winter usually. Most of my problems I come into when I stick to this routine are loose wires or physical damage like a recent mega failure I experienced with a foreign object destroying the engine, or letting someone borrow it and they bring it back after obviously crashing it which was another problem I had in the past. |
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Post by lain on Jul 28, 2016 22:40:57 GMT -5
I finished working on my scoot today. I feel as if the longer engine case with a small tire is actually better than short case... Seems more powerful in the low end even though the engine size is smaller slightly (due to using stock head instead of BBK or big valve head). Will do tests tomorrow when I go back to pick it up in the daytime.
The slightly longer case fit in the frame without any problems at all and the wheel and final gear case from the short case fit as if it were made for it, which is expected since both engines are 139qmb. The muffler had to move from the old to new engine due to the fact the muffler for the engine was supposed to go with the disc brake I removed (was broken anyways). Drum brake carried over without any issues. All around minor to no issues at all equipping a short case engine frame with a long case engine of the same type. Hope others find this info useful.
I used a long case engine from a Jonway Adventure 50cc (modded to 92cc~) and put it in the frame of a Jonway Agility. I should mention though I removed the stock 11 inch rear shock from the agility and installed a 13.4 inch adjustable shock in the rear, which may have been a big factor in making it fit, but I had done it because I wanted an adjustable shock and it's what I had in the bin.
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Post by lain on Jul 28, 2016 9:26:34 GMT -5
Well I would check the valves first, if you have the tool for it it costs nothing to check them, don't have to adjust them to check them. 4 bolts and you're in. After that I would move on to spending money to swap parts, or find a friend with a working scoot and use his temporarily. Make sure to check grounding wires and whatnot before using your friends parts or you could fry his too. You will want to check with a multimeter, visual check is not reliable.
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% of the time don't need to clean the carb, spark plug changes twice a year (usually right before and right after winter riding season), never had to change a cdi since I got casoli cdi's, change coils in the beginning of the winter usually.