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Post by lain on Jul 28, 2016 9:22:38 GMT -5
Really don't have the money to rebuild the engine, trying to use my engine from my project scoot.
While attempting to remove the rear wheel from the project scooter I discovered the previous owner pressed some odd piece of metal into the wheel and shaft to take up the space of a spacer, making it impossible to remove the wheel. So today I'm going to remove the final gear case section that attaches to the real wheel shaft, move the case and shaft from the other engine and combine them. Looks like if I do that I can just carry the drum brake over too. So far that's one of the few difficulties I have come upon.
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Post by lain on Jul 28, 2016 5:23:15 GMT -5
I won't count anything out cause i have no idea. Didn't "think" it was valves only because otherwise it runs good, starts good, and problem is intermittent. Not constantly happening at a certain point like i would assume valves do. Jiggling wires was me trying to get it to duplicate the problem when i got home and it was running fine. Stalling and not starting anymore due to valve clearances being off is not a constant issue until you keep pushing it in that condition. Eventually it would become impossible to start or run without fixing them. The way you describe the problem it could either be valve gap clearances (one of the valves are tight and when the engine heats up the heat expansion causes the valve clearance to become larger and offset timing) or ignition (electrical) problem most likely CDI or coil. It's actually very simple and easy to adjust the valves so don't let the idea of working inside the engine deter you... Another experience I've had that produced the same symptoms you are having was a faulty CDI, that's super easy to check if you have a spare just pop it on and see if it changes... Could also be missing or loose ground wire on the coil (the green wire on it). Often I find terminals LOOK good condition, then you go to move them and you find they are actually not making full connections so good idea to check them out at least. |
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Post by lain on Jul 27, 2016 9:46:55 GMT -5
Sounds like the valves need tuning, or possibly loose wire if "jiggling wires" is what got you started and kept running.
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Post by lain on Jul 27, 2016 6:16:40 GMT -5
Well the cost of doing the recovery on the engine would be the cost of a new top end (for assurance it would work), new studs, new bolts, new gaskets, a drill, a set of bits.... So the engine with problems is going to just have to be put off till I have time and money for that.
Back to my original concern; has anyone done a backwards conversion before? The parts I have to work with is a working long case 139qmb with 50mm BBK and original head, 13 inch wheel with second shock and disc brake. Parts I can take out of the troubled engine are anything from cvt to wheel since they are all mostly new parts but the parts engine has a drum brake not disc. I don't think it's possible to use the 13 inch wheel with a drum brake since it is made for disc brakes.
Jus trying to get my fave ride back on the road with the parts I have at my disposal. I really need a secondary ride so I can feel safe about working on my main ride (needs new wheel bearings and valve stem). In my experience if I work on my main ride without having a secondary I end up jynxing myself and have further bad luck.. haha... life.
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Post by lain on Jul 26, 2016 3:37:23 GMT -5
I don't see the video or whatever, but does it make you laugh? How is it funny?
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Post by lain on Jul 25, 2016 16:59:23 GMT -5
They won't damage the threads? |
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Post by lain on Jul 25, 2016 16:28:52 GMT -5
I know you know how to fix this, 'cause I remember you speaking of this before. Option 1: Get a small drill bit and an EasyOut. Drill right down the center of the stub - need to go maybe 1/2" deep (you do NOT want to all the way since then drill chips would get down into the case). Stick the EasyOut into the drilled hole, turn counter clockwise and the stub will EASILY just screw out. I'm guessing it would turn so easily you could do so by hand. NOTE: you can't screw another bolt into the hole, hoping to push the stub thru, since it will just bind against the stub and lock up. Option 2: SMALL metal cutting bit on dremel, cut a small slot in the stub. Yep - it will also probably cut a slot on either side of the threaded hole - but so what? You are only going 1/16th inch deep. Flat screwdriver ... unscrew. Easy. A lot easier than Option #1, but if you don't want the ends of the slot in the case because you find it artistically crude, then go with #1. ps: about torque wrenches. I know WELL exactly what happened to you. The tiny torque (17-ft-lbs?) is way too low for cheap clicker-style torquers. That's why so many people say we should stick with beam-style torque wrenches. A SMALL beam torquer is cheap and impossible to screw up with, though for larger torques it's less accurate. The easyout thing sounds promising, but I'm going to wait until I can borrow some QUALITY tools. I don't want to go out, buy some more cheap stuf, and wreck it more haha.... Kind of strapped for cash, moving very soon again and don't have a spare dime to drop, that's why I was contemplating using the other engine from the incomplete project scooter I have laying around. |
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Post by lain on Jul 25, 2016 16:04:45 GMT -5
I do, but who doesn't look at their first scooter with fondness? I loved that thing, haha. I still do.
Yeah I actually can't afford snap-on tools bro, each single tool of those is far more expensive than my entire tool collection. It was the advanced auto parts brand wrench... Now I know not to buy store brand there, I guess "store brand" no matter what kind of store just means "pieceofshyt."
There is no part of the bolt protruding, it is in there. I tried pushing it out with a smaller bolt but it won't turn and I feel if I were to stick my dremel in there it would ruin the hole before it would even dent the bolt because the case is aluminum and the bolt is steel..
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Post by lain on Jul 25, 2016 3:53:25 GMT -5
I was riding my 92cc agility the other day when I heard a POP then it bogged to a complete stop. After taking it home I tore into it after diagnosing everything else, obvious the engine was to blame... I crack the top end open and what do I see? A part of the filter, a long piece of plastic found its way into my intake and was jamming the valve into the piston. There was only a piece of plastic melted to the top of the piston, but the valve was destroyed, the rocker assembly was all messed up from the valve jamming into it as well...
So I looked through my parts, luckily I had an unused regular big bore top end fully assembled and ready for install and a set of gaskets. I didn't want to just go for the "feel" like I did before (with great success) so I bought a brand new torque wrench... This is where it REALLY gets messed up... So I am happily installing my brand new top end... gradually increasing torque as I tighten the bolts of the top end... Then all of a sudden I get this gut feeling, I know it "FEELS" like it is over-tightening now but I continue to twist as the torque wrench was working thus far... SNAP! The top right bolt (the one that goes into the CVT side) snapped right out with part of the threaded porting inside the casing but nto protruding from either side (confirmed after further disassembly afterwards)...
So I am shocked, and just to make sure I was right about my gut feeling I went and tried the torque wrench on a car lugnut and at the lowest setting it still won't click anymore... Brand new torque wrench cost me my engine... I should have just used my elbow as a torque wrench...
So now I am trying to get my fave ride back on the road. I have another scooter (an adventure 50cc modded to 92cc as well), has a long case CVT with 13 inch wheels, and no plastics or anything just the engine wheels and seat and frame. The mounting seems to be exactly the same as the short case on my agility except with the rear shock eye being slightly further back.
I want to take the 13 inch wheel off because it is a disc brake with a damaged rotor and a missing caliper, and I want to put my 10 inch drum wheel on. Has anyone done this kind of backwards conversion before? Can I simply replace the final gear shaft for the rear wheel and pop my 10 inch wheel on and install the drum brake? Looks like it has a spot for a drum brake even though it has a disc on the rear.
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Post by lain on Jul 21, 2016 13:59:19 GMT -5
Wouldn't they all ground to the case that way? It's a good thing to have all the grounds connected, they are designed with all the negative/ground wires from everything to end at the frame anyways. They are meant to all be connected. More grounding the better, go crazy man, I have 6 ground wires on MY engine hahaha. And at least one extra from everything else to the frame, you should see the stack on my frame grounding bolt! I've effectively reduced the risk of grounding failure for the life of the bike, made it almost impossible haha. |
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Post by lain on Jul 20, 2016 15:39:05 GMT -5
Kind of generic, gotta buy quality though and the right size. Possible they got a size that's too short. What size case, wheel, etc? You're gonna have to look into it a little to find the size for it to make sure it's correct. Could also be improper installation. Should also think about the cause of the bet breaking, because THAT may be the actual cause of all the frustration. A broken clutch that won't disengage could cause that too. So many things sound like another problem till you get down to taking it apart and checking parts.
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Post by lain on Jul 20, 2016 13:10:37 GMT -5
Oh damn so then the amount of solar panels it would need would far outweigh the practicality of it being used as a mobile backup.
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Post by lain on Jul 20, 2016 11:19:00 GMT -5
www.grainger.com/product/10W842Has anyone ever tried a solar battery maintainer? If you guys hadn't noticed I'm looking into all sorts of gadgets and whatnot. I'm actually writing up a survival/travel scooter guide for travelling and vagabonds (haha). I feel something like this could be a good backup option in case you end up running yoru battery dry for some reason, but not sure. Amperage looks a bit high (2.4 max), not sure if it limits it or just outputs what the panels give it...
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Post by lain on Jul 20, 2016 9:50:21 GMT -5
Could be the fact that the stator grounds directly to the engine case on 2 wire stator (yellow and white). I've made it a habit to ground from the engine case to the ground wire in the stator connector when using these. Without doing so often times lights are dim at low rpm and I have super bad night vision so I like as much power to the lights as possible. I also run floating grounds between the point where the case ground connects to the frame and the grounding wire for the lights near the bulb(s) when in doubt.
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Post by lain on Jul 20, 2016 8:48:21 GMT -5
I'm sure someone out there has used one. I don't know if it's just me but this forum seems unusually slow for this time of year. Maybe everyone's scoots aren't breaking down, lol. That's a good thing! lol I haven't used hoca or scrappy clutches but I think I remember someone else using/asking about a hoca clutch last year on the forum... think it might have been geh3333 |
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