|
|
Post by lain on Jul 19, 2016 6:35:50 GMT -5
I remember playing my Commodore 64 hooked up to a 12 inch black and white TV. And this was after walking to school and back five miles each way, up hill both ways in the snow, in August. Walked uphill both ways? Lol sounds like you should have taken the reverse route each way. |
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jul 19, 2016 4:21:02 GMT -5
I still remember when we used to play computer games at 320x240 stretched out on an amazing 13 inch color display. lol
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jul 19, 2016 4:13:19 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jul 19, 2016 3:49:27 GMT -5
The white smoke is most likely the carb cleaner you were trying to use. Carb cleaner is not gasoline, it will not have the same burning point and therefor would not have the same timing, not to mention it leans out the engine like in concentrated amounts. You were most likely leading yourself to the wrong conclusions due to using the wrong thing for fuel.
For diagnostic purposes you can duct tape (or gorilla tape for a better more sure hold and possibly longer term temp fix) the intake manifold where it is damaged. I've had a few friends who swear by this fix as a long term solution, but I don't trust it myself and only use it for diagnosing if the intake is in fact the issue.
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jul 19, 2016 3:41:16 GMT -5
Hey you guys hate taking everything out and dissassembling top ends and whatnot to check for things like broken piston rings or dirty carbs... Well I just got this nifty gadget that makes these tasks a little easier...
For less than $10 you can get a nice little android able endoscope with leds on it that can be submerged. Think you have a dirty carb? Shove it into your filter tube and feed it through. Want to look at how your piston moves while still assembled? Now you can! Feed it in the spark plug hole and watch it as you turn the engine by hand. Have a ton of body plastic in the way and just want to check the location of something? Slide it up and look all about... So cool!
Not trying to advertise but these things are cool. Cheap little gadget that saves tons of time and frustration. Probably not useful for someone doing a quick fix, but for someone like me who owns multiple scoots and tinkers with them as much as life allows me to... It's just... Why didn't I think of this sooner? haha...
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jul 18, 2016 20:03:14 GMT -5
Yeah with a manual one. Just remember to close it when not in use. Or for a short term quick rig macguyver type thing, suck on the tube of the vacuum hose while connected to the petcock, while holding your breath (but don't inhale from the hose) bend the hose and tie it tight with a couple zipties. This will make the petcock stay open until the pressure is released.
Smoke is not normal for a 4 stroke except after storage, could just be that if it's sat for a while with gas in the chamber. If it runs off later and stops smoking later in the game you'd know it's just that.
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jul 18, 2016 18:41:52 GMT -5
If it was hydrolocked, and the previous owner tried to do a bunch of crap to it in that condition it could have some lightly damaged rings. Does it smoke when you are able to get it to run?
Unless you have some funky setup, fuel going to the vent or something instead of to the carb, the only way fuel can get into the oil is to pass by the piston.
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jul 18, 2016 17:05:59 GMT -5
Oh I see what you are saying. That is entirely how it was designed man. There is no problem. Charging system outputs 12v with varying amperage depending on stator output. The regulator limits the voltage to around 12v because the battery is designed for 12v, more than that would damage the battery. Our scooter batteries operate at 12v and charge at 0.9a(slow) to 1.5amp (fast). The regulator keeps the voltage and amperage in this window, if it didn't you would need to worry.
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jul 14, 2016 18:04:57 GMT -5
What.... the....? Are you maybe miscommunicating or did you actually cross all those wires?  ? If you did then that explains it all. The red wire connector on the regulator limits all current to about 12v. |
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jul 14, 2016 18:03:20 GMT -5
I figured but initially I didn't have the option of the 12 inch tire I got to replace the worn one, so I was opting for what I thought was my only option. He only told me after I sent my friend to inspect the wheel he was trying to sell me he had the 12 inch tire. Businessmen...
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jul 14, 2016 7:39:30 GMT -5
Ended up going to another place to just get a tire temporarily. The rim they were trying to sell me over the phone was used and incomplete, it was missing half the rim basically... No posts to screw the rotor onto, the middle didn't even have any teeth. It looked really beat up too, so I told him no I don't want that.
I plan to come back to this later but I can get to work for now and that's the important part haha.
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jul 13, 2016 14:00:08 GMT -5
Honestly the coils are give-or-less the same if they are made for the same type of engines. Your top end is a generic gy6 2 stroke, so practically any 2 stroke gy6 parts should work.
Due to circumstances beyond my control I won't be able to check to see if I have one for another week or so.
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jul 13, 2016 13:35:45 GMT -5
I have worn down my rear tire so bad you can see the inner walls threading all the way around. Miracle I didn't die. Too many burnouts....
The local scooter shop has a 13 inch rim with the same thickness (3.50) as my current rim. My current rim is 12x3.50 and sports a what used to be a really tall 4.00x12 tire. The new rim has a tire already on it, a 130/60-13 sized one which looks low-profile-ish. I am thinking it shouldn't be a problem to use the 13 inch rim, I have plenty of clearance between the tire and engine and frame, but has anyone else tried this and came upon difficulties?
I would just order one online but I have to be at work on Friday, and there is no public transit route to get there, only via car or scoot... so time constraints are forcing me to try it out anyways. Worse case scenario I end up with an extra rim.
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jul 12, 2016 20:47:13 GMT -5
Do a little research, make sure to get the right angled pipe and whatnot, some scoots attach the mufflers to the suspension, some to the engine case, some to the back wheel alongside disc brakes, so it depends a little. It usually works if you can find something on ebay that is completely identical but make sure to read the descriptions. Also a heads up, performance mufflers are not legal for street use in most states, and they cause headaches (for some) because they are ridiculously loud, so try to stay away from those unless you're an off street racer haha.
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jul 10, 2016 16:59:47 GMT -5
scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/8281/139qmb-1p39qmb?page=1&scrollTo=66145Try using a hook or a bent screwdriver and some wd40 to pull it out, try twisting it gently and rocking it side to side with one hand as you pull it out with the tool in the other hand. I personally don't use kickstarters except in rare extreme situations, and have mine removed and in my buckets or at home to prevent fast hotwiring. Does your scoot have an electric starter? Can you take some pics of inside so we have a better idea of what you are looking at?
|
|
