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The thing they removed int he video is called a bushing. The tool I do not know because my tool kit only includes MacGuyver on a stick, a paperclip, 2 silver dollars, a compass and an old rusty screwdriver (loljk).

I use wd40 and whack the case until it drops out, sometimes the bushing needs to be removed by wedging something in there and twisting, but if you do that it can't be reused due to damage unless you are super careful but chances are if whacking didn't help it's not going to come out without a fight.

You should order a complete kickstarter set with bushings, gears, spring, C-clip, and don't reuse any old pieces if you can help it. Like using an old gear with a new idle gear may end up with the teeth from one gear chewing up the other gear.

That's right, and as well as checking anything else that could "come loose" and potentially land you head first in the back of a fedex truck.

Well stiffening up the front is pretty easy, the oil that comes in the shocks normally is low quality fish smelling stuff. I change the oil first thing when I get new shocks as well as measure the springs. I personally use 20W Fork oil (you can get from a motorcycle store), the stock oil is 5W, the highest you want to go is 20W. Choosing a thicker oil will make the front shocks a bit stiffer and make damping action faster, choosing a thinner oil will soften them up and make damping action slower. Take rider and bike weights into account when choosing oil, I use 20W because I carry a passenger more than half the time we total around 300, the bike is ~400 pounds, need stiffer faster damping action for myself but you may find 10W or 15W to be more your style.

To change the oil I unscrew the caps, remove the springs and set them aside, making note of which spring came out of which shock. Then I hang them upside down with string in the fully extended position above a couple pyrex measuring glasses so I can measure what comes out and let them drain for a couple hours, pumping them once in the middle of waiting time. While they hang I measure the springs before cleaning them while they lay down on a flat surface to make sure they aren't horribly off, then I clean them with warm water and dish soap then soak them in Seafoam or gas and dry them off with paper towels and let them air dry until it's time to put the shocks together. Once the shocks are drained fully you can fill them with the new oil, typically they take between 50-75ml but check how much came out and estimate to the closest multiple of 5 and fill them both the same exact amount. Then slowly insert the springs and then pump the shocks but only short strokes as you don't want the oil coming out. Keep pumping them until you stop seeing air bubbles surface then cap them off again in the fully extended positions. Install, have fun.

Did you check the tire pressure? Sounds like the symptoms of a tire losing pressure. If that's fine I would check the handlebar bolt, it sometimes becomes loose and can make it feel sort of weird, but unlikely it is that.

Or just remove the environmental shiz, then hook the vent tube that comes from the top of the tank to a fuel filter so no dirt gets in and then ziptie it to the frame with the end of the hose/filter at or above the top of the tank.

Sounds like you are being anxious, and that may be clouding your thought processes a bit (btdt, lol).

Got a multimeter? It's a lot easier to tell where the power is getting cut off if you first start at the lights and work back to the regulator and then to the stator to see where the voltage is getting cut off, or possibly grounded or crossed. The lighting system also has a weird soldered on on connection,  inside the wiring not far from the top of the wires but covered by the heat/wire wrap, because the chinese factories are cheap and won't put a butt connector on these. That part often becomes unsoldered over time from heat and use, and this will be apparent if you get power all the way from the stator to the regulator, and out of the regulator but not to the lights. Keep pokin around, you'll find it!

There are hundreds of old phones on ebay for $5+ that are compatible with various GPS apps, I got a mount for $8 on ebay, in total you are not looking at a big investment in money, maybe a small investment in time to learn the old phone and install the GPS app. Honestly, in my experience, you can keep spending money over and over each year on speedo cables, pucks, and whatnot, or you can get a mount and an old phone and a free app and use it for years without worrying about any issues, that's why I made the switch. Just get an older phone with a good battery and possibly a USB charger if you plan to go on long trips.