|
Post by lain on Jun 28, 2016 0:01:49 GMT -5
Get a phone mount, use your phone as a speedometer. I use Ulysses Speedometer in HUD mode (non-reversed) because I can see it during the day and it has an adaptive max speed/range.
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 23, 2016 13:55:02 GMT -5
Can you show us a video? Does the variator spin?
Sounds like a bad clutch (hopefully) or possibly bad final transmission gears.
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 23, 2016 11:23:09 GMT -5
So my bike is new and ran good til a week ago, now she only starts...throttle on and she putters/chokes and don't move. Only thing I checked was lines/hoses and carb diaphram. Any advice,I will be thankful for. Rider love, B If it's brand new bring it back to where you got it, claim it has a defect and demand they fix it. You say it's an 80cc, but they don't sell unmodified scooters as 80cc, so it could be a rebuilt engine, a project, or a used and refurbished scooter sold as new after some work to make it "new." From the description you give... I say we need more info. Check for spark, check to make sure your getting gas thru the carb, check valve clearances, if it's 80cc and not jetted properly could also be that... so many different issues cause those symptoms.
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 23, 2016 8:18:38 GMT -5
I broke broke the ring because I didn't knew about pins at that time and the rings were not aligned with pins, this made sure the rings broke when I forced them into the cylinder. I don't have the space at home to open up the engine but whilst looking at the underside I noticed the head gasket was sticking out for 2-3mm. Is this normal or could it contribute to the power loss I face daily? Yes, if you aren't replacing your gaskets when they get worn they could be blown out from pressure and causing vacuum leaks which also cause serious overheating and possibly soft-seizing of the engine. I replace mine every single time I open my engines up, no chancing it for me, but you may be able to get by and be fine with 2strokes as long as you don't scratch it or bend it and as long as you install it exactly as it was before, but it sounds like you reinstalled it and now it's protruding from the engine underneath?
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 21, 2016 14:11:44 GMT -5
Every ring is entirely essential and the placement and position of each of them is crucial.
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 21, 2016 11:32:31 GMT -5
The way it sounds the piston rod may be mis-shapen now, and/or possibly wrong piston ring positions... Sounds like it's overheating... Honestly the way it sounds if you don't want to pay your mechanic for practically a new scooter just buy a new engine drop-in. They sell them on ebay for about 300-400. Make sure to get the one that fits your frame, pay attention to the rear end of the drop-in engine, make sure the engine is identical to your current one.
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 21, 2016 11:27:13 GMT -5
My petcock is finally dried out and slow to pump, I want to replace with a nozzle and an in-line manual gas valve/switch. I already have the gas line and inline valve, as well as an inline filter, just need to figure out the size of the threads for the bottom of the tank that threads onto the vacuum petcock. Once I know that I can grab the nozzle from the hardware store...
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 19, 2016 19:59:26 GMT -5
Could be the clutch, could be the variator, open it up and check for visible problems.
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 19, 2016 19:58:05 GMT -5
Could be either, but we can't tell you. You will need to check with a multimeter.
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 19, 2016 6:44:07 GMT -5
Any other size carb other than stock would require experimenting with jets, installing new intake manifolds, possibly different engine heads, and different air intakes and exhausts to really use them. 19mm is usually what we use in 50cc scoots. If you are looking to "get faster" you should look into experimenting with the weights and springs in the CVT.
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 19, 2016 6:38:40 GMT -5
That's really messed up. I can't believe someone would do that. Man I would loved to have seen a picture of that poor crank shaft lol. I checked my timing and I didn't know the smallest gauge I have goes down to .008. But it's tighter than that. There's still a good amount of wobble so the timing is fine. My only guess know is something on the carburetor that has to do with cool startin other than the enricher. I noticed a peg in the back with a rubber cover around this rod. It can only push down a bit but goes to the bottom of the carburetor. It's attached to a spring that uses a long piece of plastic I think that looks like it pushes pressure against the throttle. I showed my dad and he said it could be the cold start choke too. I'm not sure how these are built entirely but it's worth a shot. I started working on it at 6:30am and it wouldn't start, then 9:30 came around and it fires right up. It's not like I can keep it running because it doesn't start for even a few rounds unless I shoot gas in. I'm getting a replacement carburetor in the mail hopefully soon, if this doesn't work I don't know what else from here. .008 is still too large, you don't want too much space, tight gaps are bad, and cause overheating, but too loose and the tappets get worn down and round off and shorten which makes the gaps even larger... however it should run at that, though you want to change it soon to 0.003 to 0.005 max. It might also make loud tapping noise which may be annoying... You shouldn't push the enricher in, it doesn't go that way. It extends due to heat expansion. There is wax in the enricher that expands when it is heated up and pushes the needle out, and a hole under the needle that get blocked when the needle extends enough to cover it. Usually takes about 30 seconds to 2 minutes to kick in fully depending on how old and used it is. If the only way to get it running is to squirt gas into it then that points to the carb, the fuel line, or possibly the petcock, but most likely the carb. Did it look slimey or dirty when you looked in it? Could just need a cleaning.
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 18, 2016 6:35:22 GMT -5
hey i have 2 stroke quingqi 2003 moped chain driven version and i was wondering if anyone knows what type of oil to put in the crank case and if anyone knows where i can buy parts or find a service manual i would appreciate it i cant find much online This belongs in the 2 stroke board... But to be helpful, here ya go : ) www.49ccscoot.com/manuals/1E41QMB_Chain_Drive_2T_Manual.pdfSearch 1E41QMB on ebay or google for parts, or try scrappys
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 18, 2016 6:30:41 GMT -5
thanks for the advice on the website. Have you checked out chinesescooterparts.com lately? Looks pretty good and very modern with many features. We still have scrappydogscooters.com up and running because many people still like it. It's old fashioned, personable, and fast. Much of our delay in the new site was from incompetent developers and also budget. Our sales margins are very small, and we have very little to work with. As far as the scooter express site, good for him. Dan saved alot of money by stealing most of what he has, so apparently he's got the extra money to put into a website, much of which content is a direct copy and paste off of scrappydog's site, as Dan has zero experience in scooters or motorcycles and comes from the chemical industry and was also a stock market adviser, during which he was indicted and convicted of stock market fraud and served a federal sentence for such. If you want to support a true criminal and thief, who has no love or interest in scooters, and stole what he has from scrappydog for the mere intention of making money, then it's all yours. it's a free country! I'm sure karma will kick in eventually, but in the meantime... Try to give good advice, we don't really want to know about the inner workings or anything. I agree both of your sites are lacking in "ease-of-use" but the parts are always great ime. It might help to make your site a little easier for the less tech savvy, but that's really up to you and what you feel like doing. I personally recommend your site to everyone who asks me for a parts site, they often hit me up later asking how to find the parts and I end up having to guide them through your site... Other than that you're doing an excellent job man, keep it up.
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 17, 2016 5:47:23 GMT -5
Valves are super easy to check and adjust, finding the tool may be the hardest part and that's not too hard either lol You will need a socket wrench, 8mm and 9mm and 10mm sockets and a feeler gauge (http://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Feeler-Gauge/999957773). Takes about 15-30 minutes to do depending on how much body plastics need to be removed to give you comfortable space to put your hands up in there.
Honestly the manual may be wrong, it's best to just check the side of the tire because the tires on the scooter may be different than the ones used when they made the manual. It should say in medium sized print the recommended PSI. Just don't ride it before checking the pressure so you can get a cold reading.
You can go a little higher or lower than the recommended pressure too, my tires count for 36PSI, but since I ride with 2 people half the time and like a stiffer back end I pump my back to 40 and front to 38.
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 16, 2016 23:13:42 GMT -5
Check your tire pressure before riding, it should be 36-40psi cold depending on your tires (they should say what to pump to on the side).
|
|