|
|
Post by lain on Jun 16, 2016 22:55:00 GMT -5
Yeah you can use a stock 50cc head on any BBK, it just yields less power and you may not be able to fully take advantage of a 20mm carb but you can still use them all in the same setup, I just try to maximize my smaller scoots engines and try to get every bit of power I can get. In the city you need to be able to suddenly pull out of the way of accidents and potholes at the last moment, for me going from 30 to 40 suddenly is a must when riding the smaller scoots, not to mention a lot of roads around here even though it's the city have traffic running around 40+.
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 16, 2016 8:12:10 GMT -5
Yeah that damn plastic sucks. If I ever get one like that made of it I would see to try and replace the frame with a metal but that would be probably impossible. I hate how the pins are barely on there. Like one little brush of air and it's lost under the floor board. OH GOD ALWAYS. Thanks for being so helpful, I thankfully and hopefully don't have to contact these people again. Other than the speedometer getting replaced if this fixes it I don't know how happy I would be. Maybe this was a sign that I need to get better at mechanical repairing. The GY6 is so ollllld there's gotta be some better technology out there. In my experience most mechanics are mediocre, they often learn what they need to once then never update thier knowledge ever again. I was was called in to help a shop once because their head mechanic accepted a scooter that needed a belt changed in the transmission, he ended up torquing it so tight he tore the crank apart... He told me to use his impact wrench, with a bigarse tank the size of a car and It old him "no... noo... haha.... this is why you broke it in the first place" and he told me "but this works on all the cars I work on" and I'm like "this is not a car..." Whenever you get into something like this you want to try to get to know the mechanic a little bit if you can, talk to him see if he's giving you a confidence routine or if he's talking from experience and knowledge. Mechanics who work on cars CAN most DEF fix scooters, but they need to know a few things before they go trying to adapt their car knowledge because certain things are different such as torque specs, which goes to show you should try to be careful when handing your precious ride over to someone you barely know. |
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 16, 2016 8:05:36 GMT -5
here we go 125 is on the weak side schools will teach 150 is the best . I would like to see you compression Gage test to prove what you said. I have 4 years in school trade and 25 years and auto trade. I don't believe it. Yes 125psi is on the Weaker side but plenty to fire right up and run. These will run on less. This ol Maitag will wash your clothe all day at 90psi.  I have no reason to snit talk this stuff, I have too much hands experience to be told otherwise. Pistonguy eats and sleeps cylinder seal Pistonguy conducts Technincal and Sales seminars for my customers national sales teams. I teach your instructors. Im the Factory guy they call with a question. I work in the field with Factory team's on there engine programs. we meet, ideas, put it to the Cocktail napkin, turn into a CAD program and were making chips. Other than the Piston development for the bike you see I also generated the Piston and Connecting Rod Skulls and Crossbones decal you see on the fender.  Her is a nice Unobtainioum Piston wipped this up for Factory Yam. Oh Oh a Four Stroke Piston with only Two Rings? how we gunna make that seal? 
This is my current Scoots PSI. A NO Sissy Breakin and she's sealed up pretty well
 Is unobtainioum hard to obtain? heysus if it starts with starter fluid and dies out that normally points me int he direction of looking at the carb and fuel lines because that's usually caused by having no gas flow through the carb to the engine or the tank to the carb. |
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 15, 2016 20:45:25 GMT -5
Let me see does you finger tell you what PSI you getting because you need at least 150 psi and most of the time you need to crank engine over around 3 time min. My finger does not tell me the psi. I will attempt to crank it over. Strange, not all people come with PSI gauges in their middle finger like me? |
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 15, 2016 18:05:10 GMT -5
Most likely a wire loose and grounding where it shouldn't somewhere between the brake lever and the battery.
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 15, 2016 18:03:17 GMT -5
No that's way too large. For 50cc I set to 0.004 inch gap for both, or 0.003 in and 0.004 ex, but no larger than 0.005 max and no smaller than 0.003 for best results and intake gap always has to be the same or smaller than exhaust gap. Only adjust valve gaps when the engine is COLD, like you haven't attempted to start it at all and haven't run it for at least 4-5 hours. Sometimes, for some reason, they don 't check it at the factory. I helped a friend who just bought a scooter with the same issue, turned out to be the gaps were horribly off like they didn't even attempt to adjust them at the factory. You already checked the carb, and I'm guessing the electrical stuff was all put back into the correct places, so there really isn't much other spots to check. I wonder though how do you know if you have spark or not if you aren't removing the spark plug and holding it to the case while cranking? Just assuming because you can see gas in the carb? The temp of the day shouldn't effect the scooter much unless somethign is horribly/not adjusted lol... I've ridden for an entire 16 hours straight on my scooter in above 100 degrees, they are not going to break down from heat or lack of. I've also ridden my scooters in as low as -15 degrees (with like 10 layers on lookin like the michelin man), as long as you tune yoru scooter correctly and maintain it it should start and run great in any weather really. Okay I was wondering. I really hope this is what's going on. Yeah my second scooter I had I would drive in about 15°F but I had to keep putting WD-40 on my throttle cable because as I drove it would freeze in place. I think they do that because they don't have time and want to push out as many sales as possible even though things are defective. Those valves should have been the first thing I checked. I have to admit though, it must be my transmission because this 50cc has slightly less HP than my older scooter and I can feel it pulling me at full throttle. I think so many miles destroyed my older engine. I tried running fuel injector cleaner every 5-10 tank fill ups on my older scooter to try and get the carbon off. I bought a new replacement engine for that and it doesn't want to stay running because the carburetor sat with gas in it for so long. I slapped it in my newer scooter and it fired right up lol. There goes $400 Your throttle cable might be snagged or bent too much causing it to freeze up. I've bent a cable once while getting frustrated dealing with loads of plastics hitting me in the face, haha, ended up feeding some lithium grease down the cable from the top and wd40 to chase it down, never had a problem with it snagging again and felt smoother than before. |
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 15, 2016 12:07:55 GMT -5
Can you give a video? I'm not sure what a currr sound is lol
When you say the 2 screws on the intake manifold... can you explain further? If you mean the nuts and rods, you definately 100% NEED those for it to do anything.
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 15, 2016 4:57:55 GMT -5
No that's way too large. For 50cc I set to 0.004 inch gap for both, or 0.003 in and 0.004 ex, but no larger than 0.005 max and no smaller than 0.003 for best results and intake gap always has to be the same or smaller than exhaust gap. Only adjust valve gaps when the engine is COLD, like you haven't attempted to start it at all and haven't run it for at least 4-5 hours.
Sometimes, for some reason, they don 't check it at the factory. I helped a friend who just bought a scooter with the same issue, turned out to be the gaps were horribly off like they didn't even attempt to adjust them at the factory.
You already checked the carb, and I'm guessing the electrical stuff was all put back into the correct places, so there really isn't much other spots to check.
I wonder though how do you know if you have spark or not if you aren't removing the spark plug and holding it to the case while cranking? Just assuming because you can see gas in the carb?
The temp of the day shouldn't effect the scooter much unless somethign is horribly/not adjusted lol... I've ridden for an entire 16 hours straight on my scooter in above 100 degrees, they are not going to break down from heat or lack of. I've also ridden my scooters in as low as -15 degrees (with like 10 layers on lookin like the michelin man), as long as you tune yoru scooter correctly and maintain it it should start and run great in any weather really.
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 14, 2016 23:51:41 GMT -5
I have a 50cc Taotao GT5 upgraded to 80cc. Been some issues, but they were relatively fixable, except now, after the latest run to the shop it won't run any longer. It'll start up fine while on the main pedestal, but once it's down, it sputters, backfires, and will only go about 20-30 yards. I did notice yesterday when I was tearing it down that the shop that replaced my lower and crankcase failed to replace my performance spark wire, and all the other performance electrical stuff that was installed when my BB kit was installed. Seeing this, it stands to reason that there may be an electrical issue, as there is no juice at all, after only one or two electric starts; I've resorted to kick-starting. Any suggestions or helpful thoughts? Does either of your stands have killswitches in them? If you can kick start and it will stay running then it may not really be a electrical issue unless it's a loose wire but even then... When you installed the BBK did you change the main jet to an adequately sized jet for the new size engine? Did you check to make sure there is spark by putting the plug on the engine case and attempting to start it while looking for spark? |
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 14, 2016 23:46:07 GMT -5
Get a new head, they cost the same as inserts and are more of a sure-thing. In my experience inserts cause leaks around the plug which makes it run lean. Once I was lucky and the insert heated up to the point it melted into the head and made a great seal (not perfect), but that was purely luck I think... I later replaced the head anyways, costing me both the cost of a head and an insert kit... Take the easy route and just replace the head.
Get from scrappy. I order off his ebay shop sometimes.
I don't mess with the cam, I keep them stock but maybe someone else has insight on that.
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 14, 2016 8:10:11 GMT -5
What's the difference? Google search shows nothing for a paladin 150 "2114" or "1014," what are these additional numbers?
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 14, 2016 6:05:43 GMT -5
Your valves are getting tight, readjust them.
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 10, 2016 16:03:18 GMT -5
OK, so everything seemed to be working so I let it idle for a bit and it got hot and died. The plug was real black and now it won't even try to start. Like seriously, this problem I've had since I got it. It doesn't even try to start, no solenoid click or anything. It also seems random when it does finally try and turn over. Still not sure why it won't at least try to start more than 5\60 tries, but it keeps dying. Sounds like electrical issue possibly... But can you take a pic of the plug? |
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 10, 2016 0:14:45 GMT -5
Looks like my fuel pump is clogged up, I took it off and put it in a ISO bath. Worst case, I'll order a new one. Awful gravity pumps. Iso and rubber don't mix, iso dries rubber out. Best to use a petroleum based product (like seafoam), or just flush it with gas. I personally just use grease cutting dish soap and warm water to clean rubber parts and finish off with gas or seafoam so I can use it right away. |
|
|
|
Post by lain on Jun 9, 2016 16:57:43 GMT -5
Yeah, after I adjusted the pickup coil to where I was getting enough VAC, the plug is now sparking. I'll drain my fuel and at least open the carb, and inspect for gunk. Thanks a heap you guys. ALSO: I use starTron fuel stabilizer and it has enzymes that break stuff down, so hopefully I haven't jellied. If you can get it to idle and to run fine you may be able to get by if it has jelled up slightly by just adding some "SeaFoam" to the tank. A shot glass each fill up for a couple weeks and your carb should look spotless. |
|
