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Post by lain on Jun 3, 2016 0:50:47 GMT -5
I once had this same exact issue, turned out to be bad CDI. It would spark when cold but when it warmed up it died out for the day. Check for spark when it dies out.
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Post by lain on Jun 3, 2016 0:43:37 GMT -5
Need more info about your ride
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Post by lain on May 31, 2016 9:53:55 GMT -5
#35 is the correct size, They don't range much, biggest idle jet I've ever seen in a carb even on a larger 150cc was only 37 and the smallest I've ever seen was a 34 on a moped from the early 90s... The mechanics behind scooters really haven't changed for over 50 years.
Acceleration is not part of the idle though, the diaphragm in the "acceleration pump" and the needle/needle diaphragm are responsible for acceleration and above idle. The main jet is responsible for about 2/3+ of the throttle. Idle jet is only responsible for idling.
By the way you describe it, it could be the needle diaphragm. Check for cracks, tears, dirt or hardened/dry diaphragm.
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Post by lain on May 30, 2016 14:53:08 GMT -5
Looks normal to me. Broke down a couple dozen engines in the past year, only seen this sort of thing on engines with vacuum leaks while running rich. Since you blew the spark hole out though you plan to replace the head anyways right? I'd check the intake for leaks, looks like the intake burned hotter than the exhaust somehow.
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Post by lain on May 30, 2016 14:46:53 GMT -5
Is there a way to correct this? Would it be possible to rebuild with a spring from a stock shock?
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Post by lain on May 29, 2016 15:15:55 GMT -5
The new and old shock are half an inch difference. New shock with the canister is 12.5 old shock is 13 inch. I've used a vary of lengths shocks of stock types from 11 to 13 though and none of them resulted in me bottoming out just sitting and riding hieght resulting in being riding on the frame...
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Post by lain on May 29, 2016 6:32:35 GMT -5
So I installed this shock, got the clevis too. To my dismay it performed HORRIBLY. It compresses halfway under just the weight of the scooter and bottoms out just by sitting on it. Went for a ride, darn my arse hurt it was riding on the frame/engine rubber guards basically. Tried adjusting the adjusters, made no difference.
Ended up putting the old shock back on, it doesn't perform great either but at least I'm not riding on the frame anymore...
I thought these shocks were supposed to perform better than stock? Why do they bottom out from just one person sitting on the scoot and why do they compress about halfway under just the weight of the scoot alone? Stock shocks don't really compress at all under the weight of the bike alone and under the weight of both one or two riders my rear shock only compresses about 2/3...
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Post by lain on May 27, 2016 14:00:07 GMT -5
You say you haven't run it since last october... You have more than ignition issues now. Clean out the carb and the fuel lines and the tank and replace the gas, possibly add some Seafoam to the tank before putting gas into it to get it headed into the gas lines first to keep things clean. Once you have done that you should go back to figuring out the spark issue unless you can confirm for sure that the gas is okay and running though the system without obstacles like solidified gas jelly. In my experience 2 months is enough to completely mess up an entire fuel system, you have gone much more than that. You may have actually already solved the spark issue but lacking enough gas due to clogged lines could be the issue now. These rides don't like it when you don't pay attention to them, they are like bad girlfriends, if you don't ride them once a week or so they get upset. Brugh, I know you trying to help and such but before we send someone much less experienced into tearing into his carb before he verifies anything then I see So Many screw something up that was Not Broke to begin with and never gets it running. all because of Bad Advice. Jeez, leave the dmn plug in there and give it a Wiff of Ether, If it pops you just figured out ya got spark and no fuel without having to do all this or get your hand dirty. Seems you overlooked how long it was sitting though, that long gas isn't going to be good lines will be clogged, jets most certainly would be gummed at the least unless all precautions were taken to ensure proper storage. Have you checked for spark with the plug against the engine? |
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Post by lain on May 27, 2016 10:06:00 GMT -5
You say you haven't run it since last october... You have more than ignition issues now. Clean out the carb and the fuel lines and the tank and replace the gas, possibly add some Seafoam to the tank before putting gas into it to get it headed into the gas lines first to keep things clean. Once you have done that you should go back to figuring out the spark issue unless you can confirm for sure that the gas is okay and running though the system without obstacles like solidified gas jelly.
In my experience 2 months is enough to completely mess up an entire fuel system, you have gone much more than that. You may have actually already solved the spark issue but lacking enough gas due to clogged lines could be the issue now. These rides don't like it when you don't pay attention to them, they are like bad girlfriends, if you don't ride them once a week or so they get upset.
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Post by lain on May 24, 2016 19:25:15 GMT -5
Damn I just realized last night on my way to work the shock currently on my scooter has one end eye and one end clevis. The eye at the bottom seems to be removable though and it appears all the same ones with clevis mounts are also removable. Have been searching all night for a clevis mount for the RFY shocks or for a site with parts of the shocks but can't find anything. I had a suspicion when you inquired what end was up and what went down. Emailed the seller, turns out he sells them so I bought a pair. www.ebay.com/itm/170726038091?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT |
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Post by lain on May 24, 2016 6:16:05 GMT -5
Damn I just realized last night on my way to work the shock currently on my scooter has one end eye and one end clevis. The eye at the bottom seems to be removable though and it appears all the same ones with clevis mounts are also removable. Have been searching all night for a clevis mount for the RFY shocks or for a site with parts of the shocks but can't find anything.
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Post by lain on May 23, 2016 18:12:04 GMT -5
Just bought a nitrogen shock for my rear shock. Didn't come with any documents, do I install it with the canister on top or on the bottom? Does it matter? I noticed the canister has a valve for refilling, should I check the pressure and does it need to be at a certain pressure? It also came with what seems to be spare eyes, looks to be slightly thicker than the ones in the shock already, is there a reason they come with these? This is the one I got: www.ebay.com/itm/180570125969?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT |
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Post by lain on May 23, 2016 8:23:13 GMT -5
You mention new air filter, is the new on the same as the stock one? I want to add to what jerry said. Did you adjust the A/F mix screw? Close it (turn it all the way in clockwise) Turn it out 2-3 turns (counter-clockwise) It's getting close to summertime, so you want to run just a bit on the rich side. Brent, at www.49ccscoot.com has a great guide you might want to take a look at. www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.htmlThank you Brent. ----------------------------------------------------------------- tortoise (the post below mine) has nailed it. Do that frist then go for the carb. (I got'a stop riding my 2 stroke..... well no, i kinda like to go fast.) You gave him wrong information. You do NOT want to run rich during the hot weathersummer! Disregaurd his message please that's false, unless you wan to foul plug after plug and build up tons of carbon deposit on the top of your piston... Summer tuning = LEAN Winter tuning = RICH Never tune too far, just tune until the RPMs start to drop THEN turn back about 1/8-1/4 of a turn. The reason we tune rich in the winter and NOT in the summer is because the density of the air, and the amount of oxygen and other stuff in the air is higher, so obviously you have to tune to have more gas int he winter to counter having more air. Density of air in the summer is less because heat expands the atoms in the air which make each atom drift away from each other slightly and in total has less air because of the fact the density makes air take up more space. |
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Post by lain on May 22, 2016 18:02:21 GMT -5
Ice bear mad dog 50cc. Did a 150cc swap. New motor stator had a 4plug with three spots used. I wired my old 3plug on, and matched green, yellow, white wires with my harness. Now my battery isn't getting charged. I tested continuity from green to white and green to yellow and there is none. So is the stator bad? Was my wiring of the plug wrong? Will my old stator from the 50cc fit? Here are pics from another thread.   Check the wires, make sure there's continuity from the plug to the regulator with and without the stator and/or regulator plugged in, so at least 4 combinations to check. Check each wire not yellow to ground etc, just yellow to yellow white to white green to pretty much any ground. If there's no problems there I would check further up the line from regulator to battery and battery to ground and if that;s all good I'd replace the regulator. Might want to start with a battery check though, make sure it's fully charged and see what it gives on the meter when trying to turn the starter and engine over. |
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Post by lain on May 22, 2016 17:58:32 GMT -5
Clean the carb again, clean it more. Check for vacuum leaks and intake leaks. Make sure the intake spacer isn't cracked, and if it has been removed or moved you need a new intake gasket.
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