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Post by lain on May 22, 2016 16:47:34 GMT -5
It kind of sounds like you are doing guessing like with the carb jet, those you cannot guess with and the wrong guess can end up with you needing a new engine down the road. Speed has no indication of how the engine is doing, pull the plug and take a look when the engine has cooled. It sounds like you are running lean, also check your carb for dirt, in fact I just clean mine every single time I take mine off because hey it's off why not just clean it real quick instead of going back later lol... The tiniest almost unseeable piece of dirt is enough to throw everything off.
Also just curious, you did the BBK yourself? What brand is the kit? Did you follow the guide on how to install the kit to the dot and did not skip or substitute anything? Did you make sure to install your rings on the piston perfectly? Did you make sure to install NEW gaskets on well... everything? Old gaskets on a new BBK can cause SERIOUS leaks, I've actually put an engine into the ground messing around with one I had used old gaskets on, even home made gaskets made of household items like folders are better than using old gaskets, though they don't last a fraction of how long real gaskets will. Most kits actually come with bad quality gaskets though too, the lower priced kits are 100% sure to have bad quality gaskets... I buy the low priced kits and make my own gaskets using gasket material meant for crank cases for CARS, which have a lot more pressure, and the gaskets end up lasting forever in a scooter. The ONLY gasket a consumer is unable to make at home with a box cutter and some time, is the head gasket which is usually made of aluminum and shaped specifically to form a tight seal when it is broken in around the combustion chamber, never ever ever use paper gasket for this part or use any substitutes.
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Post by lain on May 21, 2016 18:23:35 GMT -5
What is that clicky thing? I believe he is facetiously referencing the stiffness adjuster on the shocks. |
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Post by lain on May 18, 2016 11:12:31 GMT -5
Like I said, fork oil is approx the weight of transmission oil (except that the weight of trans oil is not controlled). There are different weights available - 10 02 12 ... maybe 15. And like I said - try just adding a small bit of  weight to what is already in there to stiffen it up. You can remove the forks and make a big deal out of it if you wish ... but just opening the top (unweight the wheel first!) and with an eyedropper squirt in a little blurt of heavy weight oil. It will mix with what's in there and make it a higher viscosity. You do not want to mix old and new oils, it doesn't work half as well. I have done it, they still stay springy. Just do it right the first time and never worry about it again unless you break the oil seals. The oil weight you choose should be not random. You have to factor in weight of bike, weight of riders, and how many potholes you unexpectedly hit each day... lol. I use 20W because I am about 200lb, I carry a passenger who is about 100, total 300 rider weight, bike weight is about another 400 pounds, roughly 600-700 pounds of weight on the suspensions, so yeah 20W like a light motorcycle. |
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Post by lain on May 18, 2016 11:11:08 GMT -5
Straight from the factory my front forks have always been much too soft. Quite easy to bottom them out. Im looking to stiffen them up a bit, would a heavier oil suffice, or should I try and preload the spring with a washer too? What weight oil would be best if currently it's much too soft and bouncy? Also, a bit unrelated, but also fro. The factory my steering column seems slightly off, not enough to be a huge problem, but annoying enough. My bars are turned slightly right when the wheel is straight. I duno if it's possible to straighten them out like on a bicycle, isn't there a bolt that goes through the center of the tube them keeping them in place? Is it possible to just loosen them up, realign, then tighten like on a bicycle? Been there, done that. What you need to do is get the tools to dissasemble the shocks, measure the amount of oil currently in there... It should be between 50 and 75ml but you should make sure and keep note. The shocks usually come apart with huge L wrenches or 17mm nuts on the top, and smaller but still large L key wrench for the bottom. Clean them out with grease cutting dish soap, but do not let it dry, immediately follow up with filling the shocks and flushing them with seafoam. Then fill them and flush them once or twice with 15W or 20W MOTORCYCLE FORK OIL. then hang them upside down for a couple hours to let them completely drain all oil and whatnot, put it all back together till you are at the point where you about to put the top nute back on, but at his point you want o fill the shocks witht he same amount on oil for both shocks. If you took out 50ml from each, put 50ml in each. If one of the shocks had less when you were first measuring it doesnt matter, they both need to be the same amount. Make sure to have the shocks extended while filling or you might get hands full of oil. After filling the shocks you want to slowly pump them to get any air bubbles out, keep pumping till you dont see air bubbles coming up anymore then put the cap nut on and install your newly refurbished shocks that are now able to handle much more shock and weight! |
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Post by lain on May 15, 2016 10:15:02 GMT -5
Lain....my scooter has disc brakes on both ends, and the same 12" x 3.5" wheel on the rear, as yours does. However my front one is stamped 12" x 2.75", so you better check both of yours again before ordering. Where did you order your rims? My rims are the same as yours, 2.75 front, 3.50 rear, both disc brake equipped. Do the rims come with bearings installed already or do you need to order those and the discs separate? |
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Post by lain on May 14, 2016 18:24:20 GMT -5
Thanks, that is the diagram I'm looking for. Off the top of my head I'm thinking mine might be different but I can't be sure till I get back to R/R. I got the battery charging, been cutting grass for a while now it's time to take the better half out for dinner. I'll try both suggestions tomorrow and see how it goes, thanks for the info. Just for kicks, before installing the battery test with your meter to see if the wires that connect the battery and the regulator, and the wires from the power to the ignition switch to see if they are grounding out. I use the ohmz setting to make sure there is no connection between the red wires near the battery and put the negative probe on the frame, as long as the needle doesn't rise then it's good. I would suspect something in this area to be the culprit of frayed wiring that would dump the battery in a day. I know for a fact even with the wires crossed you can still get it to run but that battery and possibly the regulator too would be suffering a lot. |
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Post by lain on May 14, 2016 17:14:41 GMT -5
Even if the regulator was not wired or wired wrong it shouldn't drain the battery in a day. I've ran scoots for a couple weeks with only wires hooked up to power the spark plug, the batteries are small but in good weather they actually last a while and can provide a good amount of starts on a 50cc, much less starts on a 150 but still not a day unless you are spamming the electric starter like a few dozen times in a day. Depending on the wiring and regulator usually really simple to wire them up anyways.  If you can still start the scoot on a full battery but then it dies in a day I would suspect there is a wire somewhere that is frayed/exposed and may be crossing another or the frame. |
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Post by lain on May 13, 2016 10:38:32 GMT -5
Lain....my scooter has disc brakes on both ends, and the same 12" x 3.5" wheel on the rear, as yours does. However my front one is stamped 12" x 2.75", so you better check both of yours again before ordering. Mine turned out to be the same, thanks I would have totally overlooked that haha |
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Post by lain on May 11, 2016 5:32:49 GMT -5
I can't visit the site. I keep getting a red screen saying WARNING THIS SITE IS NOT SECURE and then explains that the site is reported as a phishing site... That's because the links were not posted correctly and are broken violating security trying to get into areas of the secure site that are not allowed to the public. Just browse their site from the good links I provided and start a chat or email exchange with Matt about what your needs and expectations are. I'd much rather not. I don't try to bypass my security and it happens just trying to go to the home page. I'm guessing my rims are in actuality 3.5 rims not 4 |
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Post by lain on May 10, 2016 18:51:27 GMT -5
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Post by lain on May 10, 2016 10:44:07 GMT -5
I can't visit the site. I keep getting a red screen saying WARNING THIS SITE IS NOT SECURE and then explains that the site is reported as a phishing site... |
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Post by lain on May 9, 2016 19:14:42 GMT -5
nI didn't mean for this thread to change into a fire thread about suppliers. I think there's another board for that, haha!
Yeah these rims and tires are like... eskimos... they gotta be around but the landscape is white, and they live in white igloos, so very hard to find... lol
Has anyone ever substituted a 12x3.5 rim and tire set in place of the 12x4? My main concern is if the shocks and disc brakes would still be able to line up correctly and functions properly with the different sized rims or if they would just fail horribly...
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Post by lain on May 9, 2016 13:13:00 GMT -5
Have you ever ordered from that site? I tried once and they held my order for 2 months claiming they were waiting to restock but I had to go through paypal to get my money back when it didn't come after 3 months... Also those rims are 12x2.5
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Post by lain on May 9, 2016 11:12:27 GMT -5
My scoot needs new rims and tires. The ones on there both disc brake equipped and are 12 x 4.00 but I cannot find these rims or tires... Anyone have any idea if I can substitute another size or if they know where to get these elusive things?
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Post by lain on Apr 28, 2016 20:10:47 GMT -5
One re-oil technique is to apply oil to the bushing inner surface with your little finger, microwave for 5-10 seconds, then repeat.
DO NOT DO THIS |
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weight to what is already in there to stiffen it up. You can remove the forks and make a big deal out of it if you wish ... but just opening the top (unweight the wheel first!) and with an eyedropper squirt in a little blurt of heavy weight oil. It will mix with what's in there and make it a higher viscosity.
