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Post by lain on Apr 28, 2016 7:32:29 GMT -5
Sounds like sol doesn't really need a new carb, he needs to clean his current one and possibly get some jets and unseal the mix screw. The way you talk about it sol sounds like you think that screw is going to change the mixture of the scooter altogether, but the screw only controls idle mix. If your scoot is running lean when you are moving and it didn;t used to do that you may have a dirty carb or something else wrong. |
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Post by lain on Apr 27, 2016 21:58:02 GMT -5
Interesting, thanks for the tip. It didn't seem bad when I was looking at it, it looked like cosmetic wear to me, but if it's a recurring problem I may consider changing it. I didn't seem to have bad belt wear, my stock belt (gates) lasted like 3000 miles, and it wasnt too bad when I switched it out, but I did anyways to be safe If you can see the wear, that is bad. These things are designed with specific angles, and smooth surfaces for a reason. There is nothing cosmetic about a variator, it is a working part of your transmission normally never exposed or visible until you take things apart and every part of it from the ramps the sliders roll on to the circumference and angles of the surfaces even the outside are all taken into account when designing these to keep yoru crank balanced and transmission from abnormally wearing down itself and the parts around it. |
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Post by lain on Apr 27, 2016 9:43:54 GMT -5
 Here's a pic of my drive face, forgot to get a pic of the variator. At first I rode it with 12g rollers and they felt too light. Only have like a day or two of riding with 13g sliders and they feel better, so it might be riding higher now, top speed feels slightly better at least. Tell me what you think. I'm gona just get a marker next chance I get to see if it's reaching any higher now, but what is about the optimum distance from the edge to have? I haven't measured mine but by the picture yours looks like it isn't getting as high as mine but may have been due to bad rollers, also looks like your drive face is all worn in looks like it has become warped, you should get a new one asap. I've used worn variators like that, they tend to wear belts too much and cause other issues like more roller flipping. |
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Post by lain on Apr 27, 2016 7:36:58 GMT -5
If you don't care or have a replacement set on the way just twist and pull.
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Post by lain on Apr 27, 2016 6:22:18 GMT -5
How did you test the charging and lighting wires? What kind of stator and reg/rec do you have? How did you know you're ignition coil went bad? I used a multimeter; first checked ohmz resistance, nothing, then went ahead and tested with A/C 50v setting, nothing, 10v setting, nothing, DC 10v nothing... Tried the red/black (ignition) wires and got 80v-100v AC right at start. The stator is a 8 pole looks exactly like this one: www.ebay.com/itm/151458404978?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITI could tell the old stator before this salvaged stator I'm currently using went bad because I got readings from both charging and lighting wires on the old stator but nothing from the red/black wire but a small tiny jump of a current to about 1v every like 10 or 20 tries... When I removed it the poles had what looked liek salt from the streets caked on the wrapped pole which seems to be the one that connects to the red/black wire. So I'm guessing salt corrosion did that one in but I feel that is irrelevant and only distracts from the issue. |
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Post by lain on Apr 26, 2016 12:40:02 GMT -5
So I had to replace my old stator due to it stopped giving out current through the ignition wire, I used a salvaged stator from another identical engine that has been sitting around and it started right up, but then later that night I noticed the lights started off dim and went out completely within 30 seconds as it warmed up. This is an AC powered 150cc scoot by the way...
So I check the stator, the ignition wire (red/black) gives off about 80v as is starting. The charging and lighting wires give off no readings at all, no ac no dc and no resistance. Of course this stator seems to be bad as well but the engine runs, so I have just been using it as I wait for a brand new stator to come in the mail...
The weird thing is while revving and holding the brake the headlights and rear running light turns on full blast as it normally would be, then when I let go of the brake the lights go back to being completely off. Also while revving if I use the blinkers the lights will flash with the blinkers. I checked once again if there was any reading on the lighting or charging wires when I did this and nope, nothing...
So where the heck is the power coming from to power the running lights and headlights while using the brake or blinkers and why is it effected by the amount of rpms my engine is running... I've put my multimeter probes just about everywhere and connected to everything even the lighting and brake wires...
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Post by lain on Apr 18, 2016 5:59:06 GMT -5
The mix screw shouldn't be out that far, default starting point for tuning is 2.5 turns and usually only a half to a full turn max either way is where you would tune it to. Tuning CVK is just like every other carb, you just need a rudimentary understanding of what's going on inside of them and they are all very easy to tune. The idle speed screw turns variate from one scoot to the next, but entirely out or entirely in is usually not a good setting.
You may also have a dirty carb if that's the only way you can get it to run. Idle jet wouldn't be that far off anyways unless it was the wrong jet and installed after factory. Every scoot I've taken apart (dozens) has had between 34 and 37 idle jet, in most cases #35, but that is a very tiny range.
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Post by lain on Apr 13, 2016 12:38:16 GMT -5
Welding is not an option. Now looking past any kind of second shock ideas... Not giving it any more thought but thanks for all the advice. Would like to know if anyone has any experience with these weird looking single shocks with the cans on them? I'm not really looking to improve the design of the scoot at all, just looking into if I should get one of these weird looking shocks or if I should just get a replacement OEM shock.
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Post by lain on Apr 12, 2016 16:14:14 GMT -5
After tearing down the body to see what kind of attachment the rear shock has at the top I found there is no spot on the frame for a second rear shock, the caliper for the rear disc brake and the muffler would be in the way if there WAS a spot on the frame... so to install a second rear shock doesn't seem to be in the picture for this scoot.
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Post by lain on Apr 11, 2016 6:36:12 GMT -5
I have the same exact issue with a 150cc scooter. Can't find the source of the issue either and have torn apart the electrical system 2 times now.
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Post by lain on Apr 8, 2016 12:55:19 GMT -5
Well I always use 9 3 octane with a cap worth of seafoam in every fill up. Do it with all my rides because I believe this helps with mileage and keeps the engine clean so it can last longer, also seems to keep the jets clean with my secondary which I only ride once a week or two just to keep it road ready as an emergency backup or just for a friend to use for fun lol.
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Post by lain on Apr 8, 2016 12:25:59 GMT -5
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Post by lain on Apr 8, 2016 12:10:29 GMT -5
I started having starting and running issues that seemed like bad valve gaps, as I thought I checked and in was 0.002 and ex was completely closed, set them both to 0.005, very slight clatter but the gas mileage seems to have doubled! I was able to get to work and back and only used a little more than half the tank instead of almost the whole thing! Goes to show you should really check valves on used scoots.
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Post by lain on Apr 4, 2016 5:47:35 GMT -5
So the key switch on my recently aquired 150cc doesn't seem to turn the engine off. It turns the dash and blinkers and brake lights off but the engine remains running when I turn the key to off. The killswitch kills the engine just fine and I have been using that for now but am trying to figure out how the killswitch can kill the engine but the key switch won't even though it turns everything else off?
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Post by lain on Apr 3, 2016 7:09:52 GMT -5
rocky, that sounds like a lot of work for a bigger tank, so nebber mind, lain. Plus like you posted, you *should* be getting better mileage. Even I do, with nothing but go'n'stop'n'stop'n'go'n'morestop riding. Maybe tortoise' post will help. >'Kat Yes the Piaggio 200 to 300 cc bikes can get better mileage than the GY6 150 especially at speeds over 40 mph. The GY6 150 cc is at its peak mpg at between 30 to 35 mph while the Piaggio 200 to 300 cc bikes are at their peak mpg at 40 to 55 mph. I get much better fuel economy overall on my 250 than I did on my Lance/Znen 150 GY6 since most roads where I ride have 40 to 60 mph speed limits. Where I ride, a GY6 150 would be past its max speed for peak efficiency while the 200 to 300 cc bikes are in their peak efficiency zone at those speeds. With a 0.8 gallon tank you have around 102 ounces of gas which at 50 mpg gives you 0.39 miles per ounce or gets you 10 miles for every 26 ounces of gas. You will consume about ninety ounces of gas at 35 miles leaving around 12 ounces (1 1/2 cups) in the tank which will look almost bone dry in the oblong flat tank under the floorboards. You will be out of gas when you hit 40 miles. Even if you can increase fuel economy to 60 mpg you will need to stop for gas before you hit 43 miles since you will only gain about 8 miles per 0.8 gallon tank of fuel. My tank is above the rear wheel, not that it matters a whole lot. Would love to be able to get to work and home without worrying that if I stop at a store I won't get stranded. It's really becoming such a pain in the arse that I am going to bring my smaller scoot out at least for the rest of the cold days because this is getting stressful. Doing the same trip with the smaller scoot, going almost the same speeds, I only gas up twice or three times a week, this 150 is demanding I gas up once or twice each day.... I am wondering what kinds of things I can use as an aux tank, not a water bottle right, or is plastic bottles melting from gas a myth? |
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