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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Aug 7, 2016 15:27:28 GMT -5
HEY SO I GOT A HUGE ISSUE THE BIKE RUNS FINE JETTED CORRECTLY BUT IT WON'T LET ME SET THE IDLE LOWER, I CHECKED THE SPARK PLUG AND IT'S COFFEE BROWN WAS UP WITH THAT?
SHOULD I LEAVE IT ALONE AS I BROUGHT IT RUNNING WELL most I've done is cobbled a gas tank on it, change the brake pads, little front fork work other then that I really don't know how the bike can run so well without burning the plug or running rich period with no air filter.
This is a massive redneck mobile
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Post by cyborg on Aug 7, 2016 17:52:48 GMT -5
What rpm is it idling at?
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Aug 7, 2016 23:34:03 GMT -5
What rpm is it idling at? Probably 1800rpm seeing most mopeds engage the tire at this speed. I just want the tire not to be constantly engaged or pick up speed off throttle I'm amazed that it doesn't smell rich, I know one hose near the carb port has constant fuel the the other is a vacuum line at times it dribbles small stream of fluid on the vacuum side. On the other hand at least i know it's only geared to go 15.5 mph will not lose speed up hill because it is matching almost the gearing at the rear end and the drive line. 13 tooth front gear rear ends probably 36. Also at times I would have to pull/push the choke the choke closed (spring loaded copper shorty wire) manual) anyway, with it in it drives well you pull it out it speeds up but cuts out when you touch the throttle after a few seconds unless I preset the grip pulling it out which makes it gun fast. |
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Post by cyborg on Aug 8, 2016 9:02:41 GMT -5
Does it have a automatic vacuum fuel pet ok?,,, if so the diaphragm may have a split or hole and introducing fuel
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 8, 2016 9:39:46 GMT -5
1800 is perfect idle speed.
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Aug 8, 2016 13:03:12 GMT -5
1800 is perfect idle speed. It's non automatic runs off the vacuum of the engine, it's shared with alot of Japan vehicles, Honda C70 for example is there anyway to rebuild my petcock or is it just replacement time? Is this all also in relation to the petcock defect as well? |
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Post by cyborg on Aug 8, 2016 14:49:55 GMT -5
Rebuild it if it's leaking gas out the vacuum line,,, of course
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Aug 8, 2016 22:27:58 GMT -5
Rebuild it if it's leaking gas out the vacuum line,,, of course Well good news today, I lowered the idle I managed to turn the wrong screw •,● long story short so the idle is down enough to spin the tire barley but I still want to reset the pilot screw. I have had no fall backs and adjusting the pilot screw is my biggest fear. Any link for rebuild kits for the petcock? Will have to leave it on the bike as it was built Jimmy rigged between the two bracket plates between the stem head bolt and lower tire. What's a adverage base setting for it currently the exhaust doesn't smell bad but unless you put your face next to the muffler and smell it has a tiny hint of a gas smell with a simple wiff of the nose. It smells less of gas fully hot then it use to I've been using 1 3/4 method. Based of what the orginal plug was set on it was never rich but did have a smell probably from idle too high. |
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Post by lain on Aug 9, 2016 6:45:13 GMT -5
Rebuild kits for the petcock? What are you on...? Haha get a new one, they cost only a couple bucks.... If you like reliability I suggest getting a manual petcock and learn the habit of turning it off when not in use and on before starting up.
Adjusting the mixture screw is easy, and there's plenty of documentation on it in the forums and on google. The most common setting is 2 1/2 turns out from all the way screwed in as a starting point and then just adjust either way until you find the smoothest sound idle or if you have a tach around 1800 rpm (steady) on a stock engine (though I have successfully been able to idle all the way down to 800-1000 with certain blend of oil and gas and perfect tune), since it is summer you want it on the lean side, but not too lean.
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Aug 10, 2016 17:40:30 GMT -5
Rebuild kits for the petcock? What are you on...? Haha get a new one, they cost only a couple bucks.... If you like reliability I suggest getting a manual petcock and learn the habit of turning it off when not in use and on before starting up. Adjusting the mixture screw is easy, and there's plenty of documentation on it in the forums and on google. The most common setting is 2 1/2 turns out from all the way screwed in as a starting point and then just adjust either way until you find the smoothest sound idle or if you have a tach around 1800 rpm (steady) on a stock engine (though I have successfully been able to idle all the way down to 800-1000 with certain blend of oil and gas and perfect tune), since it is summer you want it on the lean side, but not too lean. So in a process of elimination I decided to steer "away" from suzuki petcock due to price I was thinking of a frame mounted one bolt petcock the issue is that these frame mounted China petcocks have a smaller vaccum inlet tube, what effects would I run into if I take a smaller hose fit it inside of the bigger hose adapted with some type of adhesive with a clamp on the end toward the vaccum side? I here vaccum requires very minimal pull to activate the gas to drain down. My other scooter functions off gravity and has the vaccum port blocked off at the carb and orginal petcock on the gas tank with a briggs and stratton on off valve It's directly over the carbuerator. Either buy a motorized bicycle gas tank or just a petcock that's essentially $25 with tank and petcock smaller fittings vs $7-$12 just for the petcock. Massively over waying suzuki's problematic $70.00 petcock. |
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Post by lain on Aug 10, 2016 20:37:21 GMT -5
Or buy a barb for the bottom of the tank, and a manual petcock from your local small engine shop (yes, that shop that sells lawn mowers should have these, or lowe's). The above cost me about $5 in parts, used existing fuel line so no cost for that. Never had a problem since, that was about 2 years ago and have used that scoot sooooo often, over 20k added onto it in that time. Also frees you up from having to use vacuum lines, eliminating a lot of possible problems down the line before they can even have a chance to become problems, unless your carb requires it. They also sell manual generic petcocks on ebay, just measure the threads and diameter of the hole on the tank and buy one that matches.
To answer your question though vacuum petcocks don't require much pressure, but the flow should be listed, if not don't buy it.
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Aug 11, 2016 0:06:23 GMT -5
Or buy a barb for the bottom of the tank, and a manual petcock from your local small engine shop (yes, that shop that sells lawn mowers should have these, or lowe's). The above cost me about $5 in parts, used existing fuel line so no cost for that. Never had a problem since, that was about 2 years ago and have used that scoot sooooo often, over 20k added onto it in that time. Also frees you up from having to use vacuum lines, eliminating a lot of possible problems down the line before they can even have a chance to become problems, unless your carb requires it. They also sell manual generic petcocks on ebay, just measure the threads and diameter of the hole on the tank and buy one that matches. To answer your question though vacuum petcocks don't require much pressure, but the flow should be listed, if not don't buy it. currently running a barb tee into the petcock right now, as the current gas tank is a ocean spray bottle haha still won't fix the vaccum issue cannot be easily bypassed my petcock barb 3 way tee is pretty leveled with the gas tank my bottle would have to be strapped to the kneck of the schwinn chopper frame + has to be removable for refill. Don't wish to drill or weld on the paint it's welded enough, anyone know where to get fire extinguisher insert straps the ones with the bump flaps? Only mount position I have is a opening slot on the oppisit side of the frame before the kneck. |
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