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i would always keep the kick start as a back up! its not exactly taking up much room is it? a high torque starter (if they exist and im sure they dont as i was trying to source one a few months ago ) will draw more power you dont want to be stuck at the side of the road wishing you kept the kick start on.

i had same issue a few months ago for me it was a bad coil, water had got in and so the spark wasnt very strong while using the starter.

i would love one myself if you manage to find one but i spent a couple of hours searching and couldnt find one...

you sure fuel flow above the filter is deffinately fine? it sounds to me like you got the hoses on the wrong way round on the pet cock valve (i've done it before) thought it was a bad valve and ordered a new one before realising.

a simple test would be to remove filter try blowing through it? if not a hose and the filter connected to it and run water through it see if it comes out at full flow obviously let it throughly dry before reinstalling, theyre not sophisticated peices of technology just a valve and a bit of catchment material, i would highly doubt the filter is your problem.

anyway you said you replaced your filter was the last one bad or just routine maintenance? you could install the old one as a test...

Thanks for the replies

Idle jet too rich wouldn't cause this problem it's as far as I can tell there's a black and white wire connecting the ignition switch and cdi together and that goes to ground it's got to be a break somewhere in that wire or the connecting grounds I currently have an oil leak from the rocker cover ordered a new seal and some Alan key head bolts for the rocker cover as there so much better! Engine bush mounts worn down and everytime there's a hint of rain the bike cuts out which in Britain is always so I'm going to strip the bike down and take the engine out to do bush and seal and use about 15 rolls of insulation tape to waterproof everything. lain I will figure this out and let you know. But if it's a problem with the black white wire or an earth wire your probably gonna have to pull your wiring harness apart unless it's (hopefully) just a bad connector plug...

Hi all,

jonway madness yy50qt-31.

i have a currently annoying problem and I keep thinking i fixed it then it rears its ugly intermittent head...

when i switch off the key the engine keeps running, all the lights dash fuel gauge etc go off so it appears the ignition switch is working. Now I know one of the things to check is the earth wire for the cdi I have a side stand cut out and that works so that tells me the cdi and the wires to it are fine. I don't have a kill switch on the dash like some scoots just a side stand cut out and ignition.

there are 2 red wires under my seat the main ones from the battery, I will show you an image, now when I was moving the wires in that area then engine would cut out as it should so it's a loose wire or broken wire somewhere I just can't find it. I spent ages and it seemed as though the connection onto the starter solonoid was intermittent so I chopped an inch off and replaced the end re-installed and all was good while it was still, went for a ride came back and bam issue back again, I'm hoping someone with good electrical knowledge of the gy6 harness can point me in the right direction so I can try and find the culprit wire. Now some info to help with your diagnosis.

while the key is off I can still kick start the engine so it's acting as if the ignition is un-hooked (I can 100% confirm the ignition is working fine and the wires connecting to it are as I have chopped and re ended them tested with multi meter all working as it should) so I think there must be a break further into the harness (somewhere near under the seat as per before) I do have an alarm system with remote start yes I have presses the unlock button and it doesn't kill the engine. I have started it with the fob but again pressing the unlock key does not stop the engine only the side stand does. I have removed the alarm system and put a bridge on it as per other threads I have found this does not solve my problem. Any help appreciated.

on another note fuse blew and I was reading 18v at the headlights so think my rectifier is broken, I have replaced and all is good again with that now just wondering if a connector somewhere might have been burnt out or a wire. I have stripped the bike back to the frame trying to sort this and replaced most of the spade terminals and connector blocks can't find any culprit seems like it's a break in a wire somewhere.

can someone using the above info work out which wire or part of the harness I need to look at, again to summarise, key off engine continues to run, if I kill it with the side stand I can again start it by the kick start while the key is off, all lights dash fuel gauge etc are off while key is off as they should be they come on when I turn the key on

long post but hopefully enough info for someone to help bring back my sanity intermittent issues really are the worst!!!
Image below is not of my bike but is same set up mines locked away at moment
Thanks

Hi, 

i currently have exactly the same problem as you and was just about to create a thread but maybe we can help each other out.

the fact that when you turn your key off the AC systems turn off I.e. Blinkers fuel gauge tells me your ignition switch is working and wired correctly.

(I don't have a kill switch) but my side stand has a cut out. If this works then the wire from your cdi is ok. Mine works fine

I have been trying to diagnose this fault for about 2 months and not found the culprit wire YET... I do get it to work when I fiddle with the 2 main 12v wires the one that goes from the starter motor and the one from the battery to the solenoid. Maybe try around here, I have had it twice where I thought I had fixed it and it was working perfectly fine then after going for a ride hey it's not working again. I'm hi king it maybe a connector near there that when I fiddle with one wire its pulling on that one

one more thing can you kick start it when the ignition is off? I can which is weird and I know you can do that when your ignition is unhooked but mine isn't. Hopefully someone with more experience with the wiring harness can come along and help us and if I figure it out in the mean time I'll be sure to come and let you know in case it helps you.

i would imagine your CDI / coil are both ok, the fact that it starts up tells me that they are doing there job well, a bad CDI or coil would mean inconsistent spark (a bad CDI usually means no spark at all) all the time the only exception here would be unless your coil cap is loose on your spark plug and at high RPM it is vibrating enough to cause the issue you are having but i would expect to see a little bit more inconsistancy in the issue you are having if that was the case.

what does your engine need to operate? gas, air and heat. the fact your bike runs and runs well upto a certain speed tells me your engine is getting everything it needs apart from when you increase the RPM's, as you increase them you increase the ammount of fuel and air you need so i would say you are either not getting enough fuel / air through at that speed or an incorrect mixture making your engine struggle. i would quite happily rule out your coil cdi and spark plug at this point

have you had it on its centre stand at full throttle? does it struggle at all or seem to get upto a certain RPM and not want to move past that?

one way to test the air filter theory would be to (and only do this for a very short time) take the air filter off and take if for a test run when you have good weather somewhere clean no dirt or grit etc you dont want that getting your engine...
if it runs fine with the air filtet off then you have found the source of your problem, clean / replace.

if its still the same with the air filter off them you can rule that out also. (check the rubber for cracks also! a small crack could be letting too much air through)

at this point we have ruled out heat (your spark plug) and air, next i would check your inlet manifold is tight and the carb is seated tight into it, if this is slightly loose then again vibration at high RPM could be moving it about allowing extra air in screwing with your air / fuel ratio and losing vaccume to the carb.

if this is all good then we move onto fuel, your carb would be the main suspect here checking your main jet would be the first thing but you said you have already done that (what did you actually use to clean the carb?) its unlikely to be your fuel lines filter or petcock valve as you are getting gas, however if your filter is blocked you may only be getting enough gas into the carb for lower RPM's it may be that your carb float bowl is emptying out faster than it can be filled due to a blocked filter at High RPM's but again this is unlikely the way to check this would be run it at high RPM's or 35mph where you have the issue for as long as possible. then check the carb float bowl if it is full theres no issue with your fuel line filter or fuel vaccume line if its empty work your way up.

do you have any spares? does your friend have a bike with the same carb? could you swap to test?

let me know how it goes and if still unsuccesfull ill come back with more ideas.