Recent Posts  By   (Read times)

Hi
Update, frame repaired had it welded like I said with the addition of steel welded to the outside to better support it as well he then sprayed it over with a waterproof black spray paint to protect it.
Inlet only removed once and the threads where perfectly fine, I was doing my valves the other day as I had issues starting and noticed one of the nuts loose when I went to tighten it down it just wouldn't just kept spinning I removed it and noticed the threads where stripped. i have found one and ordered it. I have a new problem. After doing my valves I had a day of the bike starting perfectly absolutely perfect it has never started this easy even since new. And today the exact opposite I had an issue where when going full throttle it was just bogging down and slowing the engine right down till it cut out it then became impossible to start. I have noticed a few things with the spark plug if i take it out dry it out and put it back in it fires up right away if I kill it after a few seconds and try to start it again not a chance can turn it over till the battery is flat and it won't start but if I take it out clean it up and dry it and put it back starts up straight away, tried changing the plug to a new one and same thing happens I also tested grounding the plug to the frame before drying the fuel off it and there was no spark at all but if I dry it ground it and try again there is a spark on the plug so it's like as soon as the plug gets wet in the engine it stops firing its spark got stuck today and after it died down at full throttle and cut out it would not start had to wait 2 hours for recovery after having no tools draining the battery and kick starting till my foot was too sore to do anymore all this while it was only 4 deg c and raining. Is it a bad cdi not sending enough spark through? Bad coil lead too much fuel getting through too quickly?

Ohh almost forgot to mention it idles perfectly it's only when going wot that it Boggs down and it's not a bogging down like it's in too high a gear or as if it's air or fuel starved all those cause it to bog and struggle and sit at a low rpm this is more like if you was to put the side stand down while riding which I have done and it's exactly the same symptoms that's why I went straight to the spark plug I really think it's either a cdi problem or something to do with the spark plug.

I have a spare known bad cdi and I connected that to test with that it only sends 1 spark every few seconds my normal cdi sends loads like it almost looks continuous

Any ideas much appreciated.

Thanks

Pardon my poor welding Knowledge but a double weld? As its a circular pipe the frame I'm assuming. Just weld all the way round? The guy who's gonna do it is going to sleeve it and weld it and guaranteed it wouldn't break again he said when you weld something that's snapped the weld then becomes the strongest part is that all correct? He said he's gonna put a pipe inside the frame(I'm assuming that's the 'sleeve' and weld both sides of the frame where it has split onto the pipe leaving a tiny tiny gap about 1 mm and then weld the frame back together over it. What do you think? is he correct and will that be stronger than the original frame as the original frame obviously wasn't strong enough to face up to my weight and what my local council currently calls a poor excuse for road, there's more pot holes than road...

i replaced the carb for a grand total of £16 and that resolved the issue.

i have an issue with just my indicators now if anyone can help? they very rarely work...
if i am at full revs and i mean full they will start to work and work fine, and on very rare occasions they will work on idle for a few seconds before going out but this is rare. i dont even get the lights on my dash coming on. now i thought it might be the flasher but if i press my alarm on my fob the indicators work perfectly fine with that. so that would indicate the flasher is fine?

the indicators used to work with the power on but engine not running, im assuming that means they are part of the AC system?

Quick question and I think I already know the answer is no but I have been reading up on fuses I have ordered some 12v 15a fuses to replace the faulty one, I have read a few posts saying its is the amperage that blows a fuse not the volts so I was wondering if temporarily I can put a 250v 15a fuse in place till the new ones arrive in 2 days or even better to get me to my local parts store to get one.

Thanks

Ok I assume it is the fuse confirm if this is a correct test please. With black probe on the negative battery terminal if I put the red prob on the side of the fuse closest the battery I get the full 12v if I put it on the other I only get 3v

Red wire on regulator getting 9v

To add onto before no the indicators, horn etc don't work

Ok just noticed that when the ignition is turned on the clock doesn't actually go off just very dim. However and hopefully this will help if I pull the break and press the electric start button then it goes off completely my theory is something is constantly pulling current when the key is on causing there to be little available power I.e. The clock is very dim the horn only gets 3v instead of 12 indicators don't work etc not sure what though.