Stripped inlet bolts / studs and snapped frame  By  username (Read 647 times)

Bolt remedy is good,, I'd sleeve the frame and double weld,,, but I'm a puss and a coward of the highest order,,, frame failures do not appeal to me,,

I would sleeve it on the outside myself but what he proposes is a solid and valid repair,,, as far as the roads go,,, keep voting in the liberal " enlightened" people into places of power and more taxes will be paid for less and less return,,, ah ain't socialism great???

Also check that you have the pre-load collars on the rear shocks set for your weight to ensure that they are set for your weight. Be mindful that many of the smaller scooters (even the 150cc) only have a 230lb capacity most of which will only have a single shock on the left side of the bike with no swing arm extension on the right.

Note that while the weld can be stronger it can also be more brittle. Also if the ends of the internal sleeve are not chamfered they can cause the frame to snap again at the sharp end of the sleeve. What size, make and model bike are we talking about?

The intake studs should be replaced with studs and not bolts or you will wear the tapped threads in the head out faster than the threads on the steel stud did.

www.partsforscooters.com/175-13-Intake-Manifold-Studs-M6-1-00?sc=38&category=138719

How many times did you remove the intake in 18 months in order to wear out the threads on the intake studs? That is something that one does not expect to hear on such a new bike especially since you just need to loosen the clamp to slide the carb out for service and rarely need to remove the intake itself. Just curious about root cause and prevention of a recurrence.

Hi
Update, frame repaired had it welded like I said with the addition of steel welded to the outside to better support it as well he then sprayed it over with a waterproof black spray paint to protect it.
Inlet only removed once and the threads where perfectly fine, I was doing my valves the other day as I had issues starting and noticed one of the nuts loose when I went to tighten it down it just wouldn't just kept spinning I removed it and noticed the threads where stripped. i have found one and ordered it. I have a new problem. After doing my valves I had a day of the bike starting perfectly absolutely perfect it has never started this easy even since new. And today the exact opposite I had an issue where when going full throttle it was just bogging down and slowing the engine right down till it cut out it then became impossible to start. I have noticed a few things with the spark plug if i take it out dry it out and put it back in it fires up right away if I kill it after a few seconds and try to start it again not a chance can turn it over till the battery is flat and it won't start but if I take it out clean it up and dry it and put it back starts up straight away, tried changing the plug to a new one and same thing happens I also tested grounding the plug to the frame before drying the fuel off it and there was no spark at all but if I dry it ground it and try again there is a spark on the plug so it's like as soon as the plug gets wet in the engine it stops firing its spark got stuck today and after it died down at full throttle and cut out it would not start had to wait 2 hours for recovery after having no tools draining the battery and kick starting till my foot was too sore to do anymore all this while it was only 4 deg c and raining. Is it a bad cdi not sending enough spark through? Bad coil lead too much fuel getting through too quickly?

Ohh almost forgot to mention it idles perfectly it's only when going wot that it Boggs down and it's not a bogging down like it's in too high a gear or as if it's air or fuel starved all those cause it to bog and struggle and sit at a low rpm this is more like if you was to put the side stand down while riding which I have done and it's exactly the same symptoms that's why I went straight to the spark plug I really think it's either a cdi problem or something to do with the spark plug.

I have a spare known bad cdi and I connected that to test with that it only sends 1 spark every few seconds my normal cdi sends loads like it almost looks continuous

Any ideas much appreciated.

Thanks

Another piece of the puzzle. The bike is a recovered theft from which the thief removed the carb. Hopefully there was only the intake stud damage from the theft.

Glad you got it back and running.

Time for a better lock?