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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 17, 2016 7:31:09 GMT -5
If you don't enjoy it, or riding in general anymore, then sell it. I have no idea who your insurance carrier is, or where you hail from, but insurance premiums shouldn't be a reason to let it go. Gosh, I have 2 BMW's, a Ural, and the scooter......annual premium for all 4 is $156.00. That's only about $39 a piece.....seems pretty reasonable to me.
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 12, 2016 10:54:55 GMT -5
These may help some.....taken before surgery was performed. Fuel pumps should be marked in and out, the third or unmarked nipple is vacuum. The only vac line needed is the one from the intake manifold that splits next to the carb.....one line goes to the air cut valve (acv) on right side of carb.....one line goes to the fuel pump. (Shown clearly in photo #2 in my first reply)   |
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 12, 2016 9:59:16 GMT -5
I have the same model of scooter as you.....just a different name plate. The photo below was taken while I was doing a PDI on my scoot, prior to starting it for the first time.  I removed all unecessary hoses, along with the canisters, and poop canned them. This is what it looks like after removal. My scooter has run without a single engine/drivetrain problem since purchased in 2012.  Fuel pump is in upper right corner of 2nd photo, yellow line is fuel to carb inlet, black line next to it is the vacuum line, and not showing is the line to the fuel tank. I'll see if I can find more photos of original setup. |
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 12, 2016 6:10:12 GMT -5
I installed speed bleeders on my scoot almost 3 years ago..... infact, put them on my bigger bikes at the same time. They work great, and make a fluid change, brake or hydraulic clutch, a walk in the park. This link will give a little more info.... speed bleedersAccording to my records, my scoot took the m8x1.25 size.....would think most Chinese scoots would be the same.....but as they say.....your actual mileage may vary. |
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 10, 2016 11:02:11 GMT -5
Date code is stamped into every tire made. Search "tire date code", and many sites like this one link, will pop up. |
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 10, 2016 7:18:24 GMT -5
You are much more forgiving than I would be. Shinko would never see another penny of mine. Old or not, a 6" split in the tread is unacceptable. No more screwing around with bike tire brands for me.....it's either Michelin or Pirelli that gets my money. I recently installed a set of Michelin, (standing tall) 110/  -12 tires on my 150. (overall height is 2mm taller than your 140/70-12 rear tire) Lord knows, I don't need the 'P' rating, that these have, for I rarely get over 40 mph. I did however, want something with a higher load index than the previous 120/70's (51) or 430lbs. The 110/ 's are "P" rated, plus have a load index of (64) or 615lbs. That's a big difference, and has to say something about the way these two sizes are constructed. I know you love your whitewalls, but how lucky was it, that your tire didn't let go during one of your 70+ mph jaunts? I will stay tuned for your updates. |
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 9, 2016 10:51:59 GMT -5
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 6, 2016 4:17:02 GMT -5
I'll bet the next time you go through that turn, you'll be doing it somewhat slower than last night. Are you sure there wasn't something on the pavement that caused it?
I doubt that tire width had anything at all to do with your thrill ride. I'd sooner suspect tire pressure, or condition....even the brand, some are of a softer compound for handling, while others are harder for durability. Michelin now makes a dual compound tire, hard in the center area, and softer towards the edges, to accomplish both jobs.
I don't think Honda screwed up when designing your PCX. They pretty much "know their onions" when it comes to two wheelers, and wouldn't put a tire/wheel combo on one of their products, that caused wonky handling.
Let me just say this.....I've had no hands on experience with the PCX, but did buy my first Honda in 1965.....I have never had any bike of mine do as you described.
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Post by hillbillybob on Aug 5, 2016 18:53:21 GMT -5
Put it on the operating table......nothing serious, or life threatening, just needed a new sneaker on the rear end after 5,040 miles of service. I'm going to take a bit of the surface rust off the muffler, and give it a new coat of high temp paint, before the scoot is returned to active duty.  |
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Post by hillbillybob on Jul 31, 2016 7:30:13 GMT -5
It is obvious to me, that a PDI was not done on this scooter where you purchased it. If you don't do one yourself, this is just the beginning of your woes.
I feel you are pushing it too hard, for being new. Break it in a little easier.
Educate yourself about maintaining a scooter, there are all kinds of resources to learn from.
I agree with Jerry....those valves should have been checked before the scooter was ever started for the first time.
I agree with Hunter also.....at wide open throttle, fuel demand is at it's highest, and available vacuum is at it's lowest. Any leaks in the system will lower it more, which can lead to fuel starvation, a lean condition, and an excessively hot running engine.
Your scooter isn't as you stated.... "the stupid thing" or "the damn thing"...... it just needs you to understand that initial setup, proper maintenance, and riding style, all play a part in whether your scootering experience is lousy, or rewarding.
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Post by hillbillybob on Jul 24, 2016 19:08:14 GMT -5
I was at a Carquest store a week or so ago, and watched an employee place a scooter battery on the counter. The customer complained, "it will only last a year....so don't tell me it costs a hundred dollars". The employee poked a few keys...smiled and said, no, it's only $71 (but in reality, it was close to $77 with the tax) I asked if he kept it on a tender when not used regularly.......he mumbled something.....and I got the feeling he kinda wanted to ignore me, so I went ahead and paid the other employee for the ten feet of Tygon Fuel Line I had stopped for, but as I was walking out, I had to tell him that the last scooter battery I bought (from Chrome Battery) was $22. delivered to my door, and that was in June of 2014.......it is still going strong.......I said, I hope you have better luck with your new battery, and left. Vibration, heat, and extreme cold all take their toll, also driving habits, lots of 2 or 3 minute, one mile trips and such. If you think engine heat is your problem, figure out a way to insulate your battery from it. |
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Post by hillbillybob on Jul 24, 2016 16:33:48 GMT -5
I posted a link to this in another thread.......something like this might work for ya..... bike speedo |
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Post by hillbillybob on Jul 14, 2016 17:19:52 GMT -5
The 110/ -12 that I recently put on my scooter, is actually 2/3" (.65 inches) taller than a 130/60-13. No real advantage to going to a 13" wheel.....at least not one with a 60 series tire, for it will be turning more revolutions per mile than a high profile 12" tire. |
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Post by hillbillybob on Jul 1, 2016 11:40:16 GMT -5
If not a venting problem.......I would almost bet that your scooter desperately needs it's valves adjusted. You described the classic symptom of one being too tight.
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Post by hillbillybob on Jun 30, 2016 19:39:33 GMT -5
What's with all the negativity going on in this thread? Come on guys, you ride what you want, and let others do the same, and without all of the criticism thrown in. Same thing goes for lifestyles, unless you're a father, talking to his 10 year old, you have no business telling someone else how to live.
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-12 tires on my 150. (overall height is 2mm taller than your 140/70-12 rear tire) Lord knows, I don't need the 'P' rating, that these have, for I rarely get over 40 mph. I did however, want something with a higher load index than the previous 120/70's (51) or 430lbs. The 110/