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Post by toddmaples on May 17, 2017 15:51:42 GMT -5
my diaphram resembled the type of rubber used in faucet washers, neoprene. remember, air pressure makes this thing work, so whatever method you use, try NOT to add any excess weight to the diaphram. The accelerator pump diaphram is manually actuated when you twist the throttle. Youre thinking of the slide diaphram which uses pressure. Extra weight here wont matter much. |
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Post by toddmaples on May 17, 2017 13:52:26 GMT -5
.003in=.0762mm .004in =.1016mm This. You have aluminum soda pop cans there, yes? Cut a strip out of the side of one, fold the last two-thirds in half one time. Then use this as a feeler gauge to set the valve lash. |
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Post by toddmaples on May 17, 2017 0:07:08 GMT -5
it all depends on how bad the hole/tear is. if it's a tiny hole, then a drop of rubber patch glue might work for you. i would try patching it with just glue if i could, and just enough to get a seal. when replacing the diaphram, seat the bead in the groove, install cover, install screws but only tighten them halfway. push up all the way on the diaphram, while holding diaphram up finish tightening the cover screws. Im an industrial mechanic for 12yrs, in my experience using rubber cement on vinyl and vinyl glue on rubber is a recipe for failure, so does anyone know what these things are actually made of? Rubber or some type of flexible PVC? |
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Post by toddmaples on May 16, 2017 21:43:58 GMT -5
Hello scooter heads, i have this starting problems on a 125, i replace the start motor (no help) then starter relay (no help) i have this problem at starting since i buy it, i have also adjust the valves some while ago but maybe i leave to much clearence or not sure, i remember i go with a 5mm on both intake and exhaust. But maybe it's to much or to little..? And after i done the adjust still no help. The battery i am 100% is good. Now i am sure it must come from the valve adjust since every wire is in place. Does some one know the real size of the adjustment of the valves? 5mm is WAY to large of a gap. 0.003INCHES and 0.004Inches for intake and exhaust. |
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Post by toddmaples on May 10, 2017 19:34:26 GMT -5
They're out also. Few weeks lead time as well. Has anyone ever used any of that plasti-dip stuff to repair a diaphram? Maybe flex seal or plasti-dip could seal the leak long enough to hold out until one of these places have stock... In the meantime, a manual shutoff valve will have to be the go-to. |
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Post by toddmaples on May 10, 2017 16:14:35 GMT -5
Did you set the idle with a cold engine? I made this mistake and had the exact symptoms you describe. Good luck on troubleshooting and fixing it.
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Post by toddmaples on May 9, 2017 3:38:54 GMT -5
Dont, it happens to the best of us. 12yrs experience working on everything from fighter jets to the kitchen sink and I still make easy mistakes when working on these gy6 clones. Important thing is to learn from it, and have fun while doing it. |
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Post by toddmaples on May 9, 2017 1:42:01 GMT -5
Call Scrappy, the Diaphragm may be the same size as a 24 or 26mm. I dunno for sure. I have had great success with Partsforscooters answering the phone also. Scrappys out, and timeline is 4-6 weeks, forgot to mention that in my original post. Partsforscooters? I'll check them out, thanks. |
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Post by toddmaples on May 8, 2017 18:37:16 GMT -5
Guys and gals,
Does anyone have a source for a pumper diaphram for a 23mm cvk carb? Apparantly between last summer and this my pumper diaphram has developed a leak. When carbs on bike this causes a siphoning effect and draws fuel thru the petcock at a slow rate. About 1 us gallon per four days. Gas is to expensive to evaporate away like that. Lol.
Carb is scrappys 23mm cvk "performance" carb. No manufacturer stamp/info found...
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 17, 2015 6:06:44 GMT -5
What way is better? Do yall think? And thats exactly what i was going to do i have my filter and a carb i can take to the store and make for sure. In my opinion , the uni setup with the homemade intake is Better . it pushes the uni out further towards open air. The heat from the engine moves backwards , so the filter that is right against the carb will pull in more heat . cooler air is always better. quoted for truth Any smooth intake will work, i used a pvc 45* sweep elbow and 2.5" of 1.5" pvc to do mine. good thing about the sweep and pvc setup is you can tune it to your bike before glueing together. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 15, 2015 5:58:57 GMT -5
Thank you both, GEH and RCQ! RCQ, we're actually not very far from you... if your name is also your zip code, we live just over the 5 from you (though the shop will be closer to town... I'll let you know more when we have things a little better locked down). GEH... my concern-- and it sounds like you know a great deal more than do I about such things, no question-- but my concern is that aside from being beyond my personal skill level at the moment, that making changes to the CVT would void the factory warranty. It sounds like something that would be fun to learn how to do, but that might diminish the perceived value of the bike because the warranty would no longer apply. Is this a safe assumption or am I totally out in left field? RCQ-- did you by any chance post a video of your LED lights? I saw a video of LED lights on the back of I believe a Heritage 150. They were pretty! Made a huge difference in the visibility of the bike, lit up the sky like a Harley tail. As far as thinking ahead, we have been doing so. We looked at Yamaha, but man that's a major commitment we're not yet able to make. They want a ton of space and a lot of inventory on the lot... I would too if I could command such a market. The list you made is great, though, and it made my wife and I start looking around at our little place to figure out exactly where "Parts" are going to go. (I'm assuming, btw, that BBK is a bore kit, yes? I've seen that acronym used here several times and I was guessing from context). Thank you, again! Shantyhag 1. Yep. Del mar 2. Have not yet posted an LED video, but will do so (for another person also). Important beyond anything else to be visible and heard. 3. ChinaWarranty is only  days. Not exactly a big deal. It will be 6 months or so before your customers want to monkey around (other than "spruce up" things like lights & air horns) 4. There is no legitimate ChinaLawnMowerScooter dealer or repair station north of San Diego. Big market need. Motorcycle repair places like FBC and small independants don't want to mes with our chinaLawnMowerScooters. 5. Didn't mean to start in with Honda or Yamahahahaha right now - just think ahead so you have an evolution strategy from day 1. Biggest mistake anyone makes is to not grow with your customers. 6. you REALLY need to track down a good mechanic. GEH is insane living in rural Pennsylvania - get him to move out to where there is no snow. 7. BBK is Big Bore Kit. Pretty much everyone who gets a 50cc or 150cc chinaLawnMower wants a bigger piston. The supplier I use is in Puerto Rico (Taiwan manufactured parts - much higher quality than china factories) and much lower prices than in the mainland. Shipping is free - almost always is only 2 days from order to package on doorstep. Great place. With delivery that fast you can avoid investing in inventory and save cash. Here is their Ebay adv: www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=spring&_ssn=gy6racingteam&hash=item2c96128766&item=191496357734&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&_osacat=0&vxp=mtr&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC2.A0.H0.X.TRS5&_nkw=&_sacat=0 Welcome! For the right compensation i could possibly be convinced to move back to SoCal... I also work on cars, and industrial machinery. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 14, 2015 13:11:24 GMT -5
Well my problem has been solved. It appears that it was the gas cap. I now have been riding the scooter for 3 days and it has not died once. Thanks for the input guys. Now to just fix the tire. It is noticeably bumpy at 50 MPH, when I called a scooter shop a while back they suggested Dynabeads? anyone used these? Are they the stock tires ? If so , just get new ones . the stock tire are know for being , well , very cheap unreliable tires. Quoted for truth. I like Kenda tires and RideOn balancer/sealant. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 14, 2015 12:54:31 GMT -5
By 150 I assume you mean something like 80w/150. Like I've seen for sale too! yes. In gear oil the second number is what you look at. something around  -  depending on climate. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 14, 2015 10:51:29 GMT -5
Hi, i need to change my Gearbox oil in my Keeway Zahara 125, as it has the Chinese fluid in and i want to put some decent fluid in. Now my manual is a bit hit and miss on the details of what to use as the translation is crap. It says I need Gear Oil of grade GL-5 grade 85W/ . Now i cant seem to find 85W/ anywhere, the closest i can find is the one below. Will this be ok to put in the scooter or not? linkThat should be fine with regular maintenance change intervals. Source: 11yrs as an industrial maintenance mechanic working on many types of gearboxes. Basically any low viscosity, "sticky" oil will work for these gearboxes... to thick though and it can cause problems. Don't put 150 in there because it is to thick and will make the motor work harder. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 14, 2015 8:27:18 GMT -5
I would not use any. These exhaust studs come loose very easy " that is the stock ones " the main thing is not over tightening them. I would use the red loctite and make sure you do not overtighten . this way you do not have to crank down on them and you know they should stay in place. That's usually why these things break . everyone keeps cranking them down because they seem loose or keep coming loose. Thats why I always put steel thread inserts on my bikes when I pull the head. Keeps people from stripping out the exhaust holes. Takes 25-30mins and saves alot of trouble later on. |
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days. Not exactly a big deal. It will be 6 months or so before your customers want to monkey around (other than "spruce up" things like lights & air horns)
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depending on climate.