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Post by toddmaples on May 24, 2017 16:15:52 GMT -5
how likely is it that the new autochoke that was on the new carb is bad though it is brand new only been on the bike maby 3 months and only been ridden about 100 miles its prety much been that way since it was installed. Still got the autochoke from the old carb? Two screws, swap it out, and try it. Theyre pretty universal. Ive had new ones faulty from factory before myself. |
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Post by toddmaples on May 24, 2017 2:03:54 GMT -5
Sounds like the auto choke isn't working,,, Agree, autochoke is most likely culprit. |
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Starting issue
by: toddmaples - May 23, 2017 3:47:30 GMT -5
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Post by toddmaples on May 23, 2017 3:47:30 GMT -5
Don't get a more powerful stator unless you need one It takes more power from the motor and as a scooter is resistance regulated the extra power is burnt up in the heatsink If you're going LED take advantage of the opportunity and get a smaller one. I have an underglow kit on mine, went led to have more power for it without draining battery. |
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Post by toddmaples on May 22, 2017 18:04:18 GMT -5
Only getting 6vac to cdi from stator. Suspecting stuck on brake switch put a large load on electric system and smoked the stator... Replaced incandescent bulb with an LED. Have LED turn signals in front now, and have the ones for rear, just not installed yet. Darn rain. It should be around 50VAC, I guess the stator is toast, it's a good opportunity to put on a higher capacity stator to plug extra lights. If i test stator output without cdi attached i get upwards of 20+ vac. Soon as i plug the cdi in voltage at same pin drops to around 6v. Trigger signals good at around .2v on my spare 8-pole stator and .15 on original. Ideas? This is without the black/white kill wire hooked up so i know its not that. |
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Starting issue
by: toddmaples - May 22, 2017 14:44:35 GMT -5
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Post by toddmaples on May 22, 2017 14:44:35 GMT -5
I'm having a similar issue with my scooter, in my case the suspect is a bad cable on the harness, cheaper and faster to replace the harness than troubleshooting it, also, check the stator cables to the CDI with a tester, in my case it shows 50+ volts AC. Only getting 6vac to cdi from stator. Suspecting stuck on brake switch put a large load on electric system and smoked the stator... Replaced incandescent bulb with an LED. Have LED turn signals in front now, and have the ones for rear, just not installed yet. Darn rain. |
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Starting issue
by: toddmaples - May 22, 2017 13:52:31 GMT -5
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Post by toddmaples on May 22, 2017 13:52:31 GMT -5
If checking spark from wire no need to change plug. The taotronics tachometer uses induction to read the RPMs according to how fast the wire/plug pulses(sparks). So just to rule out a bad plug i checked with a known good one. |
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Starting issue
by: toddmaples - May 22, 2017 12:25:20 GMT -5
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Post by toddmaples on May 22, 2017 12:25:20 GMT -5
Swapped two dif, and known good, CDIs in it, no spark. Bypassed the kill switch by removing black&white wire from cdi, no spark. That just leaves brake switches, coilpack, and trigger/pickup right? Change the plug first Had a little time to work on it today... Coilpack ohms in at 0.3ohms Only getting about 6v ac into cdi, but trigger reads in at 0.1v ac Did discover my right brake switch was stuck on, so ordering a new one. Left is tied to starter circuit and ohms/works properly. Different, known good, plug and coilpack swapped in and no change. Then it started raining, so i covered it up and called it a day. Going to order a stator as the troubleshooting guides ive read says the stator should be putting out around 20v ac to the CDI. Anyone have contradicting info on any of this? www.buggydepot.com/tech-center/gy6-150cc-ignition-troubleshooting-guide-no-spark/Edit: added troubleshooting guide link. Its for buggys with gy6 engines, but the electrics are the same. |
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Post by toddmaples on May 22, 2017 4:34:20 GMT -5
Hi, In order to replace the upper cam chain guide, is it enough to remove the camshaft? If yes, when you open the 4 head nuts, do you have to replace the head gasket even if you don't move it? Thank you. Yes. If you just remove the head cover and then remove the camshaft with the chain on it it's all good, about the gasket you dont need to replace it only if it's damaged Any time you break the seal between head and cylinder the gasket should be replaced. These gaskets are not meant to be reusable. |
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Starting issue
by: toddmaples - May 22, 2017 0:42:16 GMT -5
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Post by toddmaples on May 22, 2017 0:42:16 GMT -5
Check all the plug connectors to the cdi,, coil,, change the plug,,, Swapped two dif, and known good, CDIs in it, no spark. Bypassed the kill switch by removing black&white wire from cdi, no spark. That just leaves brake switches, coilpack, and trigger/pickup right? |
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Post by toddmaples on May 21, 2017 21:53:45 GMT -5
yes, i'm talking about the main jet slide diaphram. i have to disagree with the added weight though. i'm pretty sure if you add weight to the diaphram, scooter performance will suffer. add enough weight and it won't open at all. the question is, how much is too much, especially for a temporary fix. that is something i can't answer. i've had my carb apart a few times and i didn't run across an accelerator pump. it had an air cutoff valve that eliminated backfires on closed throttle and an "enrichener" (choke). i had a 250 though. On some carbs there is a shaft behing the throttle linkage, this is the accelerator 'pump' its really just a diaphram that pulls gas from the bowl and squirts it through a small orifice when the throttle is twisted. www.scrappydogscooters.com/site/d4faf33a669343abab34a17e8762cbe3/139qmb-50cc-performanc-1?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.scrappydogscooters.com%2F139QMB_50cc_Performance.html#2725Look at scrappys 20mm carb, the black boot behind the throttle linkage protects the shaft, it goes through the housing and has a diaphram in the bottom where the red plug is barely visible in the pic. Take two screws loose from the botton side and it will pop right out. Put the new diaphram in from the donor carb today, and no more leak. The old one had a pinhole tear right near the shaft causing my leaking gas. Ordered a new diaphram from partsforscooters to go in the donor to use as a spare. As far as i can tell all these cvk pumper catbs use the same size diaphram for the pumper. Now to tune my intake length and straighten out this no-spark issue over the next two days... |
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Starting issue
by: toddmaples - May 21, 2017 19:27:22 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by toddmaples on May 21, 2017 19:27:22 GMT -5
Just to be on the safe side i wanted input from the pros here. I have a bike with a starting issue. According to the taotronics tach the plug is not firing. Also im not getting brake lights when i hit either brake. This would stop the spark if brake switch was bad, correct?
No sidestand switch, ignition switch checks good. Pulling the killswitch wire from cdi made no difference.
Motor cranks over fine, but no spark to plugwire.
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Post by toddmaples on May 20, 2017 17:20:26 GMT -5
Youre thinking of the slide diaphram which uses pressure. Extra weight here wont matter much. yes, i'm talking about the main jet slide diaphram. i have to disagree with the added weight though. i'm pretty sure if you add weight to the diaphram, scooter performance will suffer. add enough weight and it won't open at all. the question is, how much is too much, especially for a temporary fix. that is something i can't answer. i've had my carb apart a few times and i didn't run across an accelerator pump. it had an air cutoff valve that eliminated backfires on closed throttle and an "enrichener" (choke). i had a 250 though. On some carbs there is a shaft behing the throttle linkage, this is the accelerator 'pump' its really just a diaphram that pulls gas from the bowl and squirts it through a small orifice when the throttle is twisted. www.scrappydogscooters.com/site/d4faf33a669343abab34a17e8762cbe3/139qmb-50cc-performanc-1?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.scrappydogscooters.com%2F139QMB_50cc_Performance.html#2725Look at scrappys 20mm carb, the black boot behind the throttle linkage protects the shaft, it goes through the housing and has a diaphram in the bottom where the red plug is barely visible in the pic. Take two screws loose from the botton side and it will pop right out. |
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Post by toddmaples on May 19, 2017 17:23:05 GMT -5
I'd block the extra port on the manifold and try it. Quality Dept in china isnt great but i dont think its bad enough to totally miss milling an orifice in a casting...
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Post by toddmaples on May 19, 2017 16:21:41 GMT -5
Scrappy sells an accelerator pump for the 139qmb carbs, does anyone know if they are the same pump between most of the different sized carbs? It's $4. You are talking about repairing/replacing the accelerator pump (stem outside, plunger diaphragm inside of carb) and not the big slide diaphragm (top of carb under large cap), correct? Or, are you talking about the fuel vacuum petcock diaphragm coming directly from the fuel tank? shaft/diaphram that the throttle cable actuates when twisted. I ended up ordering a $20 carb off amazon to use as a donor. Gonna put the choke and accel pump from the new carb into the old one. And fix the new one as a spare as the throat on it is 2.5mm smaller than my current one. |
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Post by toddmaples on May 17, 2017 17:48:29 GMT -5
This. You have aluminum soda pop cans there, yes? Cut a strip out of the side of one, fold the last two-thirds in half one time. Then use this as a feeler gauge to set the valve lash. lol, i have every tool a man needs, and ofc the valve tool from 3mm to 50 mm Just trying to help, some people dont want to spend $20 on a tool thats only used occasionaly. In this case the thickness of a sodacan wall is close enough to use to set valve lash. |
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