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Post by xyshannen on Sept 14, 2014 17:36:46 GMT -5
Could also be you need a bigger pump. I also thought it might be running too lean, but the problem happened once I was sure I wasn't running lean. Just curious as to what PSI pump you bought?
Just an FYI we have pretty much the same scoot.
Oh and lol no I'm no where near rich but I don't mind paying for something if it makes what I'm trying to do work. And in the big scheme of things the most expensive part on a scoot is still pennies when you compare it to the costs of a car.
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 14, 2014 17:25:24 GMT -5
I could totally be wrong so don't just take my word for it but the problem your having sounds very much like what my lance does at WOT. As it was explained to me these pumper fuel pumps work off of vacuum and when you mess with the intake and exhaust you disrupt that vacuum and when at WOT the vacuum in the carb goes to 0 and your fuel pump stops sending gas to the carb. So you run until what is in your float bowls is gone. It then sputters and wants to stop running and RPMs drop until you back off of the throttle. Then the vacuum picks back up and the pump starts working and RPMS go back up. When you blocked the air flow on the uni you helped keep this from happening. Others like Rocky can give you tips on trying to keep the fuel pump working, but I'm just going to stick an electric fuel pump on and be done with it. Low flow units can be bought relatively cheap. I also had issues with fitting the 30mm carb on my scoot, at least yours would go on, mine won't. For a simple fix I plan on getting one of these. www.buggypartsnw.com/index.php/buggy-parts/150cc-buggy-parts/150cc-air-carb-exhaust/gy6-intake-riser.html |
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 14, 2014 17:05:44 GMT -5
dmartin95 I do custom leather work and can tell you any leather tough enough to stand up to the elements will eventually scratch paint over time, especially when you consider road grime and sand getting between the bags and the body. Then consider the constant vibration of the road and motor. One idea I've been playing with and plan on putting into effect when I make the bags for my scoot is to incorporate foam padding I use in my custom camera and laptop cases. www.ebay.com/itm/Open-Cell-AS-PU-Foam-Sheet-75-THK-24-W-24-L-Pink-Plain-Backing-/321517516735?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4adbeff7bf As long as it's not exposed to the sun all day it should never "rot". My plan is to stitch it to the backside of the bags to act as a buffer. The cost of adding something like this for me is only a few hours of stitching. Even then I'm going to have to check them from time to time to ensure they stay clean.
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 14, 2014 16:52:04 GMT -5
Nice! I really like that CVT cover and the lights. Dunno where you are but here in Jacksonville FL you can't drive around with any red or blue lights on like that. Some BS about emergency vehicles. Least that's what the cop told me many years ago.
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 14, 2014 16:42:32 GMT -5
ratified911 great looking bikes. Where the heck did you come up with a 300cc gy6? I would love to see some up close pics of your tunnel ram.
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 14, 2014 16:28:27 GMT -5
I'm an IT guy myself, for a living I install and maintain old PBX phone systems as well as the new server based systems. Adopting a bit of know how to wrenching isn't as far of a stretch as you might think. Believe me, if you can look at a wiring schematic and make sense of it, 150cc gy6's are childs play. Sure as with anything there's going to be a bit of a learning curve, but you seem to have your head on straight so I'm pretty sure you're more than capable of handling it.
There is also the argument that it's not just about top speed. I'm planning on doing some serious mods to my scoot but I will have the CVT set up so that I never go over 60. It's just way too sketchy on this thing at those speeds. BUT getting from 0-60 as fast as possible can be the difference between life or death if I ever have to get out of the way of a rolling cage. As for the 250, I want to keep the fuel economy of the 150. High performance upgrades tend to give better fuel economy as long as you are not playing with it all the time. My last car had all kinds of work done under the hood and it got me over 30 MPG as long as I drove it like I had some sense. But if I was playing with it, I could see my gas gauge move.
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 14, 2014 16:14:15 GMT -5
tvnacman My apologies, I didn't even consider that's what was going on. I thought someone out of frame was messing with the CDI to get it to change timing. That's pretty cool that it does that. Me thinks you will be hearing from me on my next pay day.
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 14, 2014 16:09:56 GMT -5
It's bugging the crap out of me but getting at my tank is no easy ordeal. Not to mention I've been too busy with other projects to mess with it. An automotive grade fuel filter is the easy fix. Even after I dump the tank, trash getting in there over time is almost guaranteed, The tank fill port is in one of the worst places ever. I swear I have to wonder what someone was thinking when they designed this bike. Some things are genius and then some things are major fail.
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 14, 2014 10:47:49 GMT -5
tvnacman How is that CDI variable? The video just shows you guys pointing a timing light at the motor fan. How are you adjusting the timing? I ask because I just bought a CDI offa the bay that looks just like that one you linked to, same brand, same color. I'm also having issues with it not working on my scoot. None of the pics on your site show if there is a dial or something on the CDI, mine has no such dial or any way I can imagine to change the timing.
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 14, 2014 10:38:12 GMT -5
Great thread!
I make it a point to never run out of gas. When I was 17 I had a 65 chevy stepside on a K5 frame with a 396 bb on 44" swampers, and no gas gage. My tires weighd in at about 1k. I got all of about 6 mpg in this thing. I kept a 5 gallon gas tank mounted in the bed for days that I forgot how many miles I had gone since my last fill up.
One thing I like to do in any natural aspirated vehicle I get is to wait until my gas gauge is reading close to E then make lap after lap around my block until it runs dry. That way I know for sure how far down on the gage I can go b4 there's trouble.
On my lance I've learned to not go too low. The gas tank is in the floor and the cap is between my heels and the previous owners where not very careful when filling it. It's in a bad spot, perfect for getting trash in the tank. Iv'e seen junk floating around in the bottom. Last time I let it get too low I ended up having to clean my carb as trash had gotten past the filter and hung my float bowls on WOT. Sooner or later I'll have to pull the tank and give it a good flushing. I'm not the kind of person who can just leave something like that alone.
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 14, 2014 8:05:12 GMT -5
Taking the muffler off of my lance and running open header made it run very lean. Most "performance" exhausts are a straight through glasspack design so even though you have more pipe length than I did, youre still running a very free flowing setup and will need to up the jet size on your carb. Taking the carb off and swapping out jets is a pretty simple task. Jets can be bought in sets of 10 for 17 bucks, so you have different sizes to test with. I've gotten to where I can swap jets and be back running within 20 minutes. www.ebay.com/itm/181256197332?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT |
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Tach Help
by: xyshannen - Sept 13, 2014 20:36:05 GMT -5
Post by xyshannen on Sept 13, 2014 20:36:05 GMT -5
No you don't but it sure does make it look purty. LOL
Yeah I plan on changing the power feed to see if it makes it work better. But I was just messing with it again and it still seems to be working okay now. Idunnno Still better make the change so I know for sure that's not causing any issues.
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 13, 2014 18:12:48 GMT -5
It was your use of the scoop that convinced me to give it a try. I know these lil engines get hot and running one in 100 degree weather is asking for trouble. Especially when running one hard. The way I see it, anything I can do to help keep things cool is well worth doing.
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 13, 2014 11:16:35 GMT -5
And that's one more reason why I'm bout to change the entire top end. I'm going to go to a 58.5 bb with a big port head and a stroker crank. ATM I'm having a dilemma trying to figure out what's the best head to go with. I'll be making a thread for that issue soon.
You are going to love this. I was mistaken about the dc CDI. When I hooked the new unit up it ran but just barley. I just figured I had an AC system. Now that I actually tested everything I found out I was wrong and I do indeed have a DC system. So now I'm left scratching my head trying to figure out why it doesn't work. When I look at the wiring diagram for an AC based gy6 and the DC CDI I purchased both show one of the wires from the 2 prong plug going to one of the prongs of the 4 prong plug. My harnessing missing both wires from both plugs. The 2 wire plug has only one wire going to it and the 4 prong plug only has 3 wires. I'm going to make the missing jumper and see if that helps.
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Tach Help
by: xyshannen - Sept 13, 2014 9:03:40 GMT -5
Post by xyshannen on Sept 13, 2014 9:03:40 GMT -5
Thanks guys. That's where I'm hooking it too. I have it connected to the wire that hooks to the coil. When testing I found that of the 2 wires going to the coil one worked the other didn't. Even then, this tach was acting weird. However, playing with it last night for about 20 minutes I could not get it to act up at all and now seems to be working properly. Now that I've said that, it's probably going to go all fubar on me again. lol Cheap tach  edit: You know the one thing I'm doing differently was I cheated and hooked both the light power and the tach power together and have them tapped into the power feed to my speedo light. I cheated because as I figure it 12 volts is 12 volts regardless of where it comes from and on my scoot running a wire to the engine compartment isn't an easy affair. I'm thinking that power source may not be exactly 12 volts because my lights do get brighter when I hit the throttle. So this inconsistent voltage to the lights isn't the best source of power for the tach and it needs to come straight from the battery. |
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