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Post by xyshannen on Sept 6, 2014 12:21:59 GMT -5
I just went through the same problem on my scoot. Upon inspection of my clutch one of the pad assemblies' casted outer metal sheared off and was preventing it from retracting. So it was in constant contact with the bell.
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 6, 2014 12:10:38 GMT -5
I wasn't trying to say my way was better. Just easy. As for better... I forget the actual numbers (old HVAC student) but forcing air to take a  degree turn certainly reduces flow. The air box connection isn't smaller. It's actually larger than the carb air intake port. The inside is rubber that's actually smoother than what's found in a typical radiator hose. So what's better? I would say the differences aren't enough to worry about unless you are trying to eek out that extra 1/10th of a second in the quarter mile. What Geh is offering is extremely generous of him and I in no way intend to take away from that. just thought I would add an optional tip. |
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 6, 2014 8:16:42 GMT -5
FYI for the GY6 crowd, I just put a uni on my Lance. When I unboxed it I was very surprised by how big it was. There was no way it was going to fit under my cross brace. So I just cut the tube going to the original air box just before it starts to go square. Then with a little effort the Uni slipped over the cut end. Stuck it on the carb and it fit perfectly.
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 4, 2014 8:22:50 GMT -5
Yeah Ramblinman it pretty much sucked, and to this day still sucks. I'm now looking at haveing to have the whole shoulder replaced. It's just a matter of when I'm reday for 6 months of recovery.
Crappy thing about what happened to me, no amount of protective gear would have helped. Kinda hard to protect against broken bones. I have been thinking about making some protective clothing. I think it looks a lil funny to be wearing a full on race suit on one of our lil scoots. I work with very heavy leather, stuff thats usually used as armor. So I'm looking at taking a heavy long sleeve shirt and a pair of jeans and stitching protective pieces of leather into key spots. Wouldn't help much at 50+ mph but should do just fine for 30-45. Still even at 50+ it would be better than nothing.
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 4, 2014 8:05:12 GMT -5
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Post by xyshannen on Sept 1, 2014 8:59:09 GMT -5
I love the white walls on red rims. I also see you are in SD Cal, and wanted to post a word of warning. I don't know if the chrome quality is better in the 2012 models vs the the older ones, but I can tell you on my 2008 the chrome on pretty much the entire handle bar assembly minus the bars themselves, and the cvt cover is junk. It simply does not hold up over time being exposed to salt water air. These parts are pretty inexpensive to be replaced so with you being as picky as you are about how your scoot looks, you just might want to keep this in mind.
May I ask where did you source your tires from? I've searched the internet and can really only find 3-4 different types of tires for our 10 inch rims. Maybe I'm not searching right?
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Post by xyshannen on Aug 28, 2014 21:38:56 GMT -5
Thanks! It was a fun project. Now I'm looking at what else to do. I'm open to suggestions.
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Post by xyshannen on Aug 27, 2014 13:53:17 GMT -5
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Post by xyshannen on Aug 26, 2014 19:16:17 GMT -5
Thank you Seamus I would have never thought to look there.
Thank you Leo, as luck would have it I have a bunch of electrical conduit laying around and it's a perfect plug in fit to the header pipe. A quick test ride and it's noticeably quieter and does a lot less popping when coming to a stop.
dmartin, I know there are several scooters like mine with different badges. All basically the same bike just sold under different names. one of our fellow members here rockynv also had a 2007 and this is what he said reg the fuel system on these things.
"More critical to top speed was maintaining good fuel flow with the gas tank under the floorboards as the vacuum fuel pump needs to be clean and have a good vacuum source and get a solid intake pulse to make the diaphragm inside flutter and pump enough fuel to keep the engine running at speeds over 50 mph or while climbing a long grade. If the fuel pump can't keep up then the engine will run lean and start overheating leading to a soft seize, burnt piston or burnt valves.
"
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Post by xyshannen on Aug 25, 2014 7:35:09 GMT -5
Nice bike!, Heck if my seat was white I would probably have left it alone. The black PVC on mine just looked cheap to me. I'm not knocking anyone who has black PVC seats, just minet looked especially bad.
I don't know that doing a seat for anyone that's not local would be feasible. The work + the amount of leather involved wouldn't be cheap then on top of that, they would have to mail me their seat. There is just no way I could make a universal fit cover. It has to be wet molded to each individual seat. If someone was inclined to do all of that I wouldn't say no, but drumming up bis was not the point of this thread.
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Post by xyshannen on Aug 25, 2014 7:28:02 GMT -5
As for the oil cooler, whatever it is it would be a perfect attachment if you are building a steampunk scoot, even if it doesn't really do anything.  That's pretty much my thinking on this thing. I usually hate these ebay snake oil mods or all these things people do like plastering their bikes with stickers. A pirelli or ducati sticker isn't going to make your bike faster. But this thing looks cool enough that I would put one on. |
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Post by xyshannen on Aug 24, 2014 14:10:22 GMT -5
Well crap! Eh, so be it. I'm planning on replacing the whole engine anyways. I really don't have a choice but to drive it. You see I do dialysis 3 times a week and like I said circumstances beyond my control, this is my only ride to and from the clinic. The good news is the clinic is only 3 miles away and I can keep my speeds to 30 mph.
Do any of you know what engine # is in this thing? I've search google and can't seem to find it and don't see it anywhere on the bike. I do know its a short case gy6 and that's about it.
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Post by xyshannen on Aug 24, 2014 13:57:59 GMT -5
Scooter, I could totally be wrong but looking at that "oil cooler" My best guess would be that it plugs into your oil vent tube and works by somehow cooling the ambient air inside the crank case. I have to seriously wonder if it's just snake oil, but it does look cool, I'll give it that.
The other thing I'm guessing is some sort of flasher that you install on your blinker lights so that they blink when you hit your brakes.. I'm not so sure I would want that. Could be very confusing to some drivers behind you.
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Post by xyshannen on Aug 24, 2014 13:51:37 GMT -5
Truly amazing! Is he a member here? I can't even begin to imagine the time involved in making those. My only critique would be needs some leather.  |
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Post by xyshannen on Aug 23, 2014 20:44:04 GMT -5
Thanks Jerry, it always feel good when others like your hard work. I like where you are going with the copper. How about if I wrapped the silver body panels under the seat with tan leather and ran a border all the way around it with the copper rivets?
If I were a rich man I would have all the chrome replated with copper.
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degree turn certainly reduces flow. The air box connection isn't smaller. It's actually larger than the carb air intake port. The inside is rubber that's actually smoother than what's found in a typical radiator hose. So what's better? I would say the differences aren't enough to worry about unless you are trying to eek out that extra 1/10th of a second in the quarter mile.
