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Post by rockynv on Apr 28, 2016 22:59:38 GMT -5
Is there any chance that the sensor is not wired correctly and shorting power to ground instead of triggering a light or gauge and burning because it is part of a short circuit instead of what its supposed to be doing?
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Post by rockynv on Apr 27, 2016 23:29:17 GMT -5
I don't know if it's just me but the quality of the last couple variators I've had seems to be less than before. Especially the inner bushing. I've seen more variator problems in the forums the last year or so than normal. Maybe not though-- I have put quite a few miles on my variators. I still think the "v" guides and any "play" or metal to metal contact in the backplate and variator are the weak points and can trash a $40 stock variator in no time if you don't catch it. That's why I have yet to try a "performance" variator. Definitely use extreme caution when mix/matching variator parts, stock or not. That includes the boss, too. Been spoiled as I went Hoca on the Lance when I had it and it was pretty solid. The Piaggio stock variator on my Aprilia (which I believe they contract TGB to make for them) at 30,000 miles appears to be half way to worn out. Many people shoot themselves in the foot on the boss and variators in general by cleaning the permanently lubricated center where the boss rides with a solvent which removes the lubricant and causes them to wear out very quickly. The TGB unit has oil impregnated Boston/Sintered Bronze in the center for the Boss to slide in and you would be shocked at how many techs clean them with brake cleaners and then leave their customer with a variator that is all egged out by the next 12,000 to 15,000 mile belt change. |
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Post by rockynv on Apr 27, 2016 22:59:06 GMT -5
Bleeding depends on the maker. Some have what looks like a brake bleeder on top of the engine that you simply open to let the air out while others require whats called burping by squeezing the coolant hoses. Some require the front wheel to be raised up so the bike is facing up at close to a 45 degree angle to burp the cooling system.
Note that if its still with just a straight through pipe it can be overheating due to running overly lean if they did not put larger jets in the carb to cool things down. Too lean and you can burn holes in your piston top and destroy your valves.
Does the thermostat open up when you put it in a pan of boiling water? If you heat the water up to 180 degrees you should see most thermostats start to open and they should be fully open before reaching 195. If the water is boiling at 212 degrees and the thermostat is still closed then you have a defective thermostat. An inexpensive candy/cooking thermometer (not a stubby roasting/turkey thermometer) can be used to measure the water temp in the pan
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Post by rockynv on Apr 27, 2016 22:52:19 GMT -5
0.3 mm is the basic wear limit for any variator drive face. After that you deal with more than belt wear and get into vibrations and harmonics that can cause all sorts of damage to the bike and its engine from cracked body work to failed frames to engine and transmission failures. If you have exhaust and header failures its just one more indication that your drive faces are possibly in need of attention.
The inner drive face also needs to be checked for max range as many times it sets the limit of possible travel since it can be a smaller diameter than the outer drive face. No sense in putting a 115 mm outer drive face on a 110 mm variator since you will still be limited by the smaller of the two. Drive the belt out past the edge of the smaller variator drive face and you can have belt slap issues over the entire speed range as the belt starts to heat and distort.
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Post by rockynv on Apr 27, 2016 4:50:28 GMT -5
If your talking about the drain cap on the purge tube that should not require removal. If its a new engine that nipple should be connected to the hose leading to the purge vent on the air box or if the air box has been removed to a metal can gas filter suspended from the frame under the seat bucket so it can collect the oil purge and allow it to drain back into the engine when its not running so you won't end up with an oily mess under the seat bucket.
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Post by rockynv on Apr 27, 2016 4:45:02 GMT -5
The key cut should be stamped on one of the cylinders that you already have out so I would take them both to a lock smith and have a matching key made. It will most likely be cheaper if you bring them the locks that you have already removed.
If its a scooter that you are working on for someone else then just remove the part with the gas cap on it or enough of the surrounding body work so you can flip the latch from behind without breaking it so you can go on working until the guy with the key shows up.
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Post by rockynv on Apr 26, 2016 4:11:42 GMT -5
A picture of the failed part would help. Many have heat issues if they don't get all the air burped out of the system which a non-functioning temp gauge is sometimes a symptom of. How many miles on the bike that it needed such a complete overhaul?
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Post by rockynv on Apr 25, 2016 22:39:16 GMT -5
Not enough compression to start so the valves are floating on belt debris or the debris slipped the timing chain. Will have to pull the valve cover later this week and see.
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Post by rockynv on Apr 25, 2016 12:27:41 GMT -5
Air bound, failed water pump, stuck thermostat, clogged cooling system, colapsed cooling hose on the inlet side of the water pump, lean fuel mixture or a combination of the above. How old is the bike and how long has it been since the last cooling system flush which should be done at a minimum every two years counting from the date of initially being filled with coolant and packed in the crate.
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Post by rockynv on Apr 25, 2016 4:43:31 GMT -5
Sounds like a can of worms and overpriced for a Dash 50. $50 or $100 tops maybe since that new starter is probably close to being toast already.
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Post by rockynv on Apr 25, 2016 4:34:19 GMT -5
Rockynv,Sounds like you really DID dodge the bullet!Also sounds like Aprillia borrowed from "the book of Harley Davidson" with the seal re-directing excess oil back where it belongs... But, most likely a lot better than reverse-threads on the crankshaft poking out through a hole in the block... LOL!
As the immortal "Red Green" used to say... "We're pullin' for ya... After all, we're all in this together..."  Here's hoping all is well when you fire up the little nipper!Ride safe!Leo Cluster migraines that lasted the entire day got in the way so hopefully tonight after work there will be some time to fire it up and check for leaks. At the stage in life where we are working towards letting the girls find you handy. I believe you know what they say at Possum Lodge on that topic. |
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Post by rockynv on Apr 25, 2016 0:34:53 GMT -5
Rocky - the Lance that you had - was it an older Chinese-made one, or the more current Taiwanese-made? 2008 so it was a Znen. Lance dropped their entire lineup and started over with Sym due to Znen's inconsistent quality whenever Znen took on more orders than they could fulfill. Znen did not seem to care about existing obligations for delivering quality products, only in increasing production and sales numbers with new clients. |
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Post by rockynv on Apr 24, 2016 8:25:48 GMT -5
Leo - The seal appears to be designed to direct excess oil back to the sump to prevent excess build up. I pressed the cover back into place yesterday but life got in the way of run testing it for leaks before installing the variator, clutch and new belt. Barring any leaks or unforeseen events I should have it back up and running before the end of the day. I had to do a lot of scrubbing with steel wool to get all the belt residue off the drive faces and the drive faces are so tough that they do not have a mark on them from the steel wool. On my Lance the drive faces were so soft that scrubbing them with steel wool left a highly visible pattern.
Plan for now is to start it up and check for leaks while is sits there idling and warming up before installing anything else. I have a new oil sump gasket in hand just in case that was damaged however it appears to still be intact.
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Post by rockynv on Apr 22, 2016 22:20:41 GMT -5
Leo - I picked up the timing cover seal unit the other day on my way home from work (left work at 3:00 PM got home at about 7:00 PM) and will start the installation tomorrow. Getting all the fragments was a pain in the neck however I believe I got them all.
Hopefully the way the filtration system is set up it won't allow anything to get into the oil galleries.
Its a dry sump engine and the timing cover does not actually lead into the crank case but outside it over the wet sump with the oil pump drawing through the screen and outputting through a micro fine spin-on oil filter. I am going to use the drive face to turn the crank a few more times to ensure that no belt material is on the timing chain leading up to the cam and head however nothing up there leads to the crankcase either.
The cover is large enough (4 1/2 inches) with the crank bearing in the side of the dry sump behind the oil pump drive and timing chain to allow replacement of the timing chain without splitting the case or the chain. Just pull the timing cover, remove the cam and slide the old chain out and the new one in using a shoe lace to pull it through.
At 30,000 miles with much at Interstate speeds nothing behind the cover really shows any signs of wear.
My biggest fear would be if any of the oil misting ports that cool certain areas inside the crankcase got plugged by a missed belt fragment however with the way this is designed that would be pretty much impossible.
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Post by rockynv on Apr 22, 2016 21:59:21 GMT -5
What speed range are you running the new scooter at? It needs to be run-in at below 2/3 of max speed (that's about 30/35 on a 150) for 150 to 200 miles or you can get soft seize issues.
Otherwise it sounds like it could be a defective ignition pickup if its not fuel. People are too quick to start tearing apart carbs on new scoots. Even if you have a spark with a defective pickup it can be at the wrong time and when they get hot they peter out just like you were running out of gas. Usually by the time you open things up to check the spark they have cooled enough to work again making it harder to check them and if you run them with the covers off then until they get really bad the extra airflow prevents them from failing.
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