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Post by 926am on Apr 25, 2016 10:40:38 GMT -5
Can anyone tell me what might have caused this over-heated temp sensor? I have a new one on order, just wondering if something on the engine side could be responsible.
(Has good/level coolant, fresh oil, was only idling 1400rpms in air temp 70degrees. Stator is recent.)
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Post by rockynv on Apr 25, 2016 12:27:41 GMT -5
Air bound, failed water pump, stuck thermostat, clogged cooling system, colapsed cooling hose on the inlet side of the water pump, lean fuel mixture or a combination of the above. How old is the bike and how long has it been since the last cooling system flush which should be done at a minimum every two years counting from the date of initially being filled with coolant and packed in the crate.
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Post by 926am on Apr 25, 2016 15:50:26 GMT -5
Wow! I'll have to go over everything. I just rebuilt the crank/cylinder, replaced 'most' of the cooling parts.
Doesn't seem like its over-heating, but gauge doesn't seem to be working (not sure if it's related to the carb-area sensor I'm having problems with.)
Thx.
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Post by rockynv on Apr 26, 2016 4:11:42 GMT -5
A picture of the failed part would help. Many have heat issues if they don't get all the air burped out of the system which a non-functioning temp gauge is sometimes a symptom of. How many miles on the bike that it needed such a complete overhaul?
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Post by 926am on Apr 26, 2016 9:07:18 GMT -5
I bought it w/no muffler, just a straight pipe out (not even a baffle.) So it's my theory that the heat just wore out the crank/piston. The piston had cracked and pieces were jamming the crankshaft.
Rebuild went well, just the over-heating problem. I think it's air in the system. I replaced the water pump, the 2 temp sensors, as well as the thermostat. New aluminum-friendly coolant mixed 50/50 was used.
I did not, however, bleed the system. I have both the CF Moto and Honda shop manuals but can't find any info on the subject (they both recommend bleeding the system, w/o any procedure.) Seems like an air blockage, because when the engine gets hot the radiator is still cold.
Also, I have not heard my fan kick on, and the temp gauge is always pinned to hot when the key is on. Not sure if a new temp sensor will fix that. I did replace the radiator mounted sensor.
(can't attach pics)
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Post by 926am on Apr 27, 2016 15:24:50 GMT -5
Any ideas how to bleed the cooling system?
Rocked the bike back n forth, ran it w/the cap off until the level came up.
Anything I'm missing? Hate to be over-heating out on the road.
Thx.
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Post by rockynv on Apr 27, 2016 22:59:06 GMT -5
Bleeding depends on the maker. Some have what looks like a brake bleeder on top of the engine that you simply open to let the air out while others require whats called burping by squeezing the coolant hoses. Some require the front wheel to be raised up so the bike is facing up at close to a 45 degree angle to burp the cooling system.
Note that if its still with just a straight through pipe it can be overheating due to running overly lean if they did not put larger jets in the carb to cool things down. Too lean and you can burn holes in your piston top and destroy your valves.
Does the thermostat open up when you put it in a pan of boiling water? If you heat the water up to 180 degrees you should see most thermostats start to open and they should be fully open before reaching 195. If the water is boiling at 212 degrees and the thermostat is still closed then you have a defective thermostat. An inexpensive candy/cooking thermometer (not a stubby roasting/turkey thermometer) can be used to measure the water temp in the pan
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Post by 926am on Apr 28, 2016 15:10:46 GMT -5
I pulled the thermostat out just in case.
The carb is jetted at 135, I'll be checking the plug & vacum to see if it's accurate. Might be a little lean: tough cold- starts. It has an electric choke which makes it a little tough to know when its off.
The joys of tuning!
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Post by rockynv on Apr 28, 2016 22:59:38 GMT -5
Is there any chance that the sensor is not wired correctly and shorting power to ground instead of triggering a light or gauge and burning because it is part of a short circuit instead of what its supposed to be doing?
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Post by 926am on Apr 30, 2016 12:09:00 GMT -5
No, I've tried w/the senor disconnected and same result (gauge pins redline as soon as key is on.) i just checked the connections, were a little corroded but cleaned up well.
It's probably a short. Think I'll try to find a universal gauge so I can monitor the motor.
Once I get that, I'll be able to take longer test drives and check on the rich/lean condition.
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Post by 926am on May 28, 2016 14:20:57 GMT -5
Update: I took apart the lower-end (to install the oil orifice on the crankshaft) and I think I found the over-heating cause. The head gasket did not have all ports through. There was significant blockage.
When I rebuild I will be dremeling out the new gasket to match the cylinder orifices.
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