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Wide open throttle is perfect! Nice strong pull. There’s still a bit of richness when I roll off the throttle.
Looks like I’ll have to adjust the plunger needle.
Can anyone advise, what increments to adjust? I’m currently at the end so I cant move the clip any more, so regarding a new needle, how much bigger should it be?
Looks like the clip increments are pretty tight...just a few millimeters in between... so a new needle should be like 5 mil longer?

Thanks!
I checked it out and the rubber o-ring had come apart. It was half out of the hole. I replaced the choke w/a new one and took it for a ride, same problem. Nature of the issue was exactly the same.
Back to the drawing board😥

Yes, I feel I am throwing a lot of repairs at this issue too! But thankfully its not my main bike so I can take some time w/it.
Does the air bypass valve have another name? I googled it for my cvk carb but couldn’t find anything in the diagrams, and everything is connected properly.
The choke seems to be working perfectly. Its a genuine Honda unit & the system is 12volt. It pulls off after about 3-5 min.
Getting back to the timing, its an after-market cam (endigo rock crawler) & I’ve read that these could be off by a couple teeth & the motor will start and run fine, except for higher rpms. I have a timing light gun, can this be checked?
Thanks for any insights.

Or could it be a blown head gasket? No visible leakage for oil or coolant. Perhaps I should retorque the head...

Ok, I replaced intake gasket & tightened carb clamp. Slip-on muffler seemed a little loose so I used a pipe expander to tighten it up. Tightened up exhaust manifold bolts. I took for a test ride but no change. Checked valve adjust-good. (Adjusted between loud chatter and rpm drop)
While I wait for a new exhaust gasket, could this problem be ignition? Could a faulty coil perform well when warm/cold but fail near wot?

(I start driving the bike after I hear the choke come off, rpms & power are always smooth right up to wot & as I roll off. After 10 min at high speeds (50-60mph) is when prob starts. Always when I roll off from wot.)

Hello, I’m getting popping/backfiring/lose of power when I back-off wide-open-throttle. I have a rock crawler cam, which I’ve read could be off even when installed correctly. Can the timing be checked w/a timing gun? I’d hate to try the ‘reinstall a tooth off’ method til it works.
What’s strange is that this problem occurs when hot. Its fine when warm/cold. And wot is mostly good. Could this indicate a fuel mix problem? (Jets, vac leak, etc) I’ve went up & down in main jet size but the nature of the problem remains exactly same. (#145 main/ 40 idle)

I know its hard (Impossible!)to diagnose over the net, but I’m just looking for suggestions. It has a 32mm carb, k&n air filter, & stainless exhaust.(stock cdi) Plug reading looks textbook (medium-dark gray) Gasoline is fresh, gas filter is new.

Could a petcock be restricting fuel flow? Wouldn’t that happen at wot also? Can this be checked?

My ‘not-that-stock’ cf250 has to have the throttle bliped to keep running when cold. I’ve switched to a manual choke but the problem has persisted.
It runs awesome when warmed up, plug is never fouled or baked. Valves have been adjusted as well as idle and fuel mixture. I was not able to find any vac leaks.
I have a k & n air filter and a performance stainless exhaust system. Jets are 130/38.
Could this just be a symptom of the mods?
Are there any components on the carb that I can inspect? (I’ve noticed a long rod in the fuel bowl area that seems to be integral to the choke/enricher circuit)
Sta-bil fuel additive is being used, could it be that? (Fuel is fresh)
Thoughts???