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Variator fit
by: 926am - Apr 23, 2018 20:01:15 GMT -5
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Post by 926am on Apr 23, 2018 20:01:15 GMT -5
Yes, it seems the outer pulley was not straight. I re-installed and belt wear seems to have been halted. Thx.
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Post by 926am on Apr 19, 2018 16:52:41 GMT -5
Thanks for the help guys. It’s great to hear things I might not have thought of. It ended up a broken ground wire. This was one of those problems I chased.
Here’s the saga:
Steam coming from hoses,( must be hoses or clamps.) While hoses are on order, I check fan (its bad.) New fan installed, but still not coming on, test for ground wire & sensor (ground wire tests bad.) Run dedicated wire and run engine (fan still doesn’t come on.) Replace sensor, start considering weak current not turning fan (is that even possible?!?) Decide to re-check ground wire and it’s loose (enough to loose connection.)
Man! Now can I have some above 40’s to enjoy this thing?!?
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Post by 926am on Apr 16, 2018 18:50:39 GMT -5
The thermostatic switch tested functional. It was open circuit (no continuity) when cold & closed circuit (continuity) when hot.
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Post by 926am on Apr 15, 2018 13:53:22 GMT -5
Electric fan is not coming on when gauge reads in red zone.
Things I have tested for:
Jumped battery direct to fan (fan works strong)
Checked radiator thermo senso for closed circuit (continuity) when hot (was good)
Checked all ground wires (good)
Checked for voltage at fan & thermo (12.7v at idle, 11.9v not running)
I have read about is if stator can’t generate enough amps Fan may not come on. How would I check for this?
Am I missing anything?
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Variator fit
by: 926am - Apr 15, 2018 13:46:15 GMT -5
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Post by 926am on Apr 15, 2018 13:46:15 GMT -5
Interesting. I hadn’t thought of that.
How do I test for mis-alignment?
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Post by 926am on Apr 12, 2018 17:38:38 GMT -5
(Not sure if pic was uploaded)
Without any shims, exposed gear part of shaft is just less than 1/4”. I suppose I could always grind down the spacer, but I’m not sure that would solve my problem.
The reason why I am interested in adding shims is that this is a new variator, and I’ve noticed belt wear as well as slower accelleration.
The original variator came loose while on the road and pieces were lost, so I have no comparision w/the new parts.
(bike is a 2004 cf moto v3)
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Variator fit
by: 926am - Apr 11, 2018 20:18:06 GMT -5
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Post by 926am on Apr 11, 2018 20:18:06 GMT -5
I recently installed a dr pulley variator and am wondering the minimum amount of shaft gear the outer plate needs to grip. Adding shims creates a lower gear, but I want to ensure that there’s enough of the shaft gear available for the variator to perform correctly. Right now it’s about 1/8-1/4”.
Thx.
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Post by 926am on Jun 20, 2017 6:13:13 GMT -5
Found out from supplier: shiny/beveled ring goes first(bevel side up), then black/rectangle ring goes second.
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Post by 926am on Jun 16, 2017 16:51:57 GMT -5
Hey, trying to install some piston rings w/out any instructions and wondered if anyone here might know a source for proper piston ring order and orientation.
One ring marked DY has a bevel on inside (opposite from 'dy' mark) and endgap of .25-.30mm.
Other ring is marked D is squared off and endgap of .30-.40mm.
Two Problems:
1. Which goes on top? (Beveled or squared?/ DY or D?)
2. Endgap is within spec for Honda, but not CF Moto ( Honda is .15-.35mm and CF Moto is 15-30mm/.10-.25mm. Does it make a difference? Piston and cylinder are exact same size. Why would there be separate specs for same engine? Differences in ring material??
Thoughts?
Thank you.
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Post by 926am on Mar 6, 2017 17:31:39 GMT -5
The cylinder is the only part I didn't replace. I'm ordering a new one w/piston (265cc) which will hopefully work well with the 32mm carb & straight through muffler.
It's so odd, every ring was exactly lined up at the gap, like it was done intentionally. I had some over-heating problems, and I bought it used (7,000mi) so who knows...
I noticed the cam chain isn't perfectly aligned with the chain guides. Is this normal? I can't figure how to correct (unless I have a defective camshaft.)
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Post by 926am on Mar 5, 2017 16:04:00 GMT -5
Ok, so I got everything apart and it looks like the rings had all oriented themselves so the gaps were lined up. I know I didn't install that way, is it possible they moved on their own? Bike ran for most of the summer, but I rarely went more than a mile or two.
Could this be indicative of a problem? (Everything, piston, crank, head was new.)
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Post by 926am on Feb 28, 2017 11:31:50 GMT -5
Yes, Chinese made. I'm having start problems and have ruled out everything eles. Compression was the last test. I have all the necessary gaskets for a rebuild, but I just wanted a second opinion on the numbers before tearing apart.
Thx!
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Post by 926am on Feb 27, 2017 17:25:05 GMT -5
Hello, can anyone tell me what is the proper compression when cranking? Manual says 231psi, but that seems high (more like running.)
I am currently at 50psi when cranking (cold.)
Thx.
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Post by 926am on Feb 10, 2017 10:44:45 GMT -5
Yes, that sounds good. Last time I had engine apart I marked flywheel with permanent marker (but I guess it wasn't very permanent!)
I have a new flywheel on order, so I may try using it as a guide for timing mark.
Thanks for all the help!
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Post by 926am on Feb 9, 2017 11:55:26 GMT -5
Yeah, I'm leaning that way...
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