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Post by rockynv on May 3, 2016 23:49:19 GMT -5
If it was stuck open then the belt slipping at high speed would have shredded it but closed would have prevented that and should have only impacted performance. The condition of the drive faces on the other hand could have shredded the belt especially if with the variator stuck closed there was a ridge in the clutches drive face that the belt was constantly riding halfway on. The condition of the CVT air filter also can greatly reduce belt life if its clogged it will cause the belt to overheat and fail and if missing depending on the environment it can allow enough dirt into the CVT case to cause the variator or clutch faces to jamb and lead to belt failure. Mind you I am currently riding an Aprilia which sees belt life of 12,000 to 15,000 miles when the filter and CVT is kept pristinely clean.
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Post by rockynv on May 3, 2016 23:41:07 GMT -5
I can understand the want for an oil cooler on an air cooled bike however on a water cooled bike it would probably easier to just put in a bigger radiator or another small radiator in line with the original located where you would have mounted the oil cooler. That way temperature would still be regulated via the thermostat for maintaining efficiency and minimum regulated operating temps.
Flushing coolant twice a year is a bit over the top since its generally scheduled for every two years so doing it annually would be to the extreme service schedule however if it works for you then there is no real harm except the financial and environmental considerations considering the extra waste generated.
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Post by rockynv on May 3, 2016 0:54:10 GMT -5
The vacuum fuel pump barely has enough oomph to pump fuel and the hot oil would quickly destroy the vinyl rubber sheet it uses as a diaphragm. If the engine had external taps for an oil cooler then you have it made otherwise some have an oil plug or dipstick adapter which I have not seen for years now for tapping into the oil sump using an electric pump.
As for boring things out the sleeve is thin enough as it is so you would be getting a minimal increase for the cost of boring and honing it. The cost of boring it may come awfully close to the cost of just purchasing a bigger bore too.
On my Lance the best bang for the buck was simply getting the bike working optimally as it was designed. Cleaning the fuel system, keeping on top of valve adjustments and setting up the variator to my needs. Standard clutch and premium belt with the Hoca Variator was all I really did aside for keeping it clean and adjusted to get a consistent 60 mph from the bike. The downside was the valves needed more frequent adjustment commuting at 50+ mph every day so I had to deal with that monthly making it so the head did not last very long as the valve seats just sank too fast when pushing the speed. I ride 6,000 to 12,000 miles a year at mostly over 45 mph so the GY6 really was not holding up under that type of usage.
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Post by rockynv on May 2, 2016 12:16:00 GMT -5
The center bore of the variator should be permanently lubricated and should never be cleaned with a solvent or all the lubrcation can end up being removed. At best you wipe the boss down with an oily rag before assembly.
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Post by rockynv on May 2, 2016 4:24:52 GMT -5
Yes we saw. I wouldn't push those types of pics too far lest JR has to take you to the virtual woodshed for a digital whopping.
On many boards those would be limited to the Off-Topic Enter at Your Own Risk Forum and not allowed in the G-Rated Family Forums.
Where I am employed if that came up on my screen and another employee saw it and took exception the HR Review Board would have no choice to put a reprimand on my employment record for violating the Company Code of Conduct and potentially start termination proceedings for violating the Code of Conduct which would result in loss of benefits.
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Post by rockynv on May 1, 2016 20:39:24 GMT -5
Here is an updated Adventure version of the Navi. I think this would sell in the US if priced competively. I see a lot of Mahindra tractors (made in India) on the farms and ranches around here.  I was wondering about the open cargo area missing its storage box. Looks more like something that one would expect from their former partner in India, Hero. I know some that were really wanting the Mahindra Diesel Pickup Trucks since the tractors have proven so reliable here in the USA. Many considered it a good replacement for their aging Isuzu Pup Diesels that they have been running for over 30 years now. |
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Post by rockynv on May 1, 2016 20:34:27 GMT -5
Usually the Evans goes into a new or freshly rebuilt cooling system where the block has been drained bone dry after being pristinely flushed out and all new hoses, thermostat, seals and water pump have been installed.
If it leaks or gets contaminated then it is flush and refill time. Its not supposed to expand as much so water getting into it is not supposed to be an issue unless the cap on the overflow tank has failed badly.
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Post by rockynv on Apr 29, 2016 22:58:48 GMT -5
Im trying not to throw parts at it. It been since last november that this has happened and over that period of time those are the parts I have put on in there. And I dont have a melmeter to check the voltage. And with the valves do I have to put the engine a certian way? I wanted to rebuild this scooter anyways. I bought it used with 9,000 miles on it. Less than $20 and could have saved you from buying parts you did not need. $6 at Harbor Frieght: www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html$9 at Home Depot: www.homedepot.com/p/Power-Gear-Analog-Multimeter-50952/203735783$12 at Lowes: www.lowes.com/pd_464297-295-10010S_1z0vixhZ1z0yt4x__?productId=50125847&Ns=p_product_price|0&pl=1&Ntt=meter$19 at Walmart: www.walmart.com/ip/Digital-Multimeter-10709/14521541Pains me that a meter is so inexpensive yet folks dish out so much cash, time and effort chasing problems with guesswork and parts that they likely did not really need that even the $6 meter from Harbor Freight could have saved them from. I am very sincere when I tell you the $6 meter from Harbor Freight could have saved you much more than you paid for it if you had purchased it before replacing anything on the bike. If you get on their mailing list sometimes you will get a coupon that will get you one as a free gift when you make any other purchase at one of their stores even if its a $1 or $2 flashlight or some other small item. Engine must sit at least overnight without having been started before doing a valve adjustment. Timing marks have to be aligned with the piston on its compression stroke when adjusting the valves. A little loose is better than a little tight because when they are too tight they may not stay closed long and solidly enough to transfer their heat to the head to cool them off. If you do a lot of riding over 40 mph valves can require adjusting at every other 500 mile oil change which is every 1,000 miles. That turned out to be monthly for me when I had a GY6 150. |
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Post by rockynv on Apr 29, 2016 22:30:48 GMT -5
I found that switching to Engine Ice Coolant made a big difference when the roadway temps start heading to 110 and above. When the engine fan comes on the Engine Ice is so effective at thermal transfer that almost instantly the red needle on the gauge starts dropping and the fan instead of running constantly the entire time your stopped cycles on for 15 seconds and then off for a minute or so.
Flushing the cooling system every 2 years with distilled water and white vinegar followed by a distilled water rinse before putting the Engine Ice in helps ensure top cooling system performance.
Its non-toxic too so if you confuse it for Blue Gator Aid.... Never mind..... ;>
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Post by rockynv on Apr 29, 2016 11:55:24 GMT -5
Still seems like my 150cc bikes seem to have nothing substantial to gain though. Only better off the line performance and a higher more solid top speed along with improved hill climbing ability. |
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Post by rockynv on Apr 29, 2016 4:21:34 GMT -5
I don't know. It almost sounds like your rectifier or voltage regulator is bad so the engine is not giving the battery enough charge to keep it running. What is the voltage like at the battery when it does start? Did you put the old battery on a charger or have it tested before replacing it? What did checking the fuses and low beam bulb with a meter reveal?
You have to stop throwing parts at the bike and do a root cause analysis as the new parts are just going to muddle things up if one is defective or if you break something else while installing them leaving you with a new problem in addition to the original one which could have simply been voltage regulator or rectifier preventing the battery from charging and the light from coming on.
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Post by rockynv on Apr 28, 2016 23:35:00 GMT -5
I hate sliders... They have no benefit! Depends on the bike and your goal. My Aprila gets faster 0 to 60 times with them using the stock weight value and cruises better at 80+ mph Interstate speeds even where there is a headwind that would have slowed you down with the rollers which have a smaller operating range. The sliders allow the variator to open wider and close up tighter giving you a much larger range of drive ratios than any roller can. Better low end off the line acceleration while increasing high speed stability and usable top speed are very large benefits especially when you get them without having to modify or change the stock clutch which reduces maintenance and costs. Buying off brand knock-off sliders of course will not be as beneficial. |
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Post by rockynv on Apr 28, 2016 23:24:32 GMT -5
If you can see the wear, that is bad. These things are designed with specific angles, and smooth surfaces for a reason. There is nothing cosmetic about a variator, it is a working part of your transmission normally never exposed or visible until you take things apart and every part of it from the ramps the sliders roll on to the circumference and angles of the surfaces even the outside are all taken into account when designing these to keep yoru crank balanced and transmission from abnormally wearing down itself and the parts around it. I hear ya, but I dont think it really looks like wear, it felt flat, I thought it just looked like it's normal color change from the belt but who knows 0.3 mm is not that much and across the width of the drive face could be barely perceptible. The real test is to put a metal straight edge from center to the edge of the drive face and see how thick a feeler gauge fits between the straight edge and the drive face. If you can fit a 0.3 mm feeler gauge in anywhere between the drive face and the straight edge then the drive face is worn out. |
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Post by rockynv on Apr 28, 2016 23:17:56 GMT -5
 why don't ya kids play in an aisan forum? eat a mike-n-ike. kidding,just boared. There was a retract on a youtube vid that suggested graphite on variator ramps is good.I agree! Depends on the roller/slider and variator. Some are already permanently lubricated or made of a self lubricating material so adding graphite draws out the lubrication gumming things up and causing premature wear. Some variators are actually made of a silicone ceramic aluminum alloy and would definately not benefit from this either. You will see those variators lasting for 50,000 miles if you maintain them according to the manufacturers specifications. |
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Post by rockynv on Apr 28, 2016 23:11:22 GMT -5
Maybe a conventional oven at possibly 250 degrees swabbing the bronze with a very light machine oil such as Velocite so it will be drawn in while its cooling but definitely not in a microwave.
It can get very dramatic depending on the wattage and makeup of the microwave when you put a large metal object in a microwave. My own sister did that to one of the commercial units I owned in the past and ended up putting on a fire show that was quite dramatic until the $1,500 magnetron finally gave up the ghost.
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